I think OP's car is OBD 1 or 1.5 and doesn't have a downstream 02 sensor. Your car if it is a '96+ would have OBD II and cat-back 02. I don't know if I totally believe higher ZDDP HD oil will shorten it's life but it's something to consider. I don't think HD oil would help with piston slap which is usually harmless. I don't think there's much advantage to using anything other than a good SN 5W30.
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Putting in new rod bearings: picture thread
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Originally Posted By: mechanicx
I think OP's car is OBD 1 or 1.5 and doesn't have a downstream 02 sensor. Your car if it is a '96+ would have OBD II and cat-back 02. I don't know if I totally believe higher ZDDP HD oil will shorten it's life but it's something to consider. I don't think HD oil would help with piston slap which is usually harmless. I don't think there's much advantage to using anything other than a good SN 5W30.
I'm in a similar boat with the O/P and the wife's car - which happens to be a 95 Pontiac Grand AM also. I plan on using an HDEO (Northland 10w-30) because of the higher KV100 visc and HT/HS (3.35) for increased oil pressure due to less than ideal clearances after the budget "re-build".
I think OP's car is OBD 1 or 1.5 and doesn't have a downstream 02 sensor. Your car if it is a '96+ would have OBD II and cat-back 02. I don't know if I totally believe higher ZDDP HD oil will shorten it's life but it's something to consider. I don't think HD oil would help with piston slap which is usually harmless. I don't think there's much advantage to using anything other than a good SN 5W30.
I'm in a similar boat with the O/P and the wife's car - which happens to be a 95 Pontiac Grand AM also. I plan on using an HDEO (Northland 10w-30) because of the higher KV100 visc and HT/HS (3.35) for increased oil pressure due to less than ideal clearances after the budget "re-build".
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
I think OP's car is OBD 1 or 1.5 and doesn't have a downstream 02 sensor. Your car if it is a '96+ would have OBD II and cat-back 02. I don't know if I totally believe higher ZDDP HD oil will shorten it's life but it's something to consider. I don't think HD oil would help with piston slap which is usually harmless. I don't think there's much advantage to using anything other than a good SN 5W30.
Okay, that makes sense. Mine is a 2000 and definitely OBD II. I'm not concerned with the piston slap, as I've understood it to be relatively harmless, but thanks for the response.
I think OP's car is OBD 1 or 1.5 and doesn't have a downstream 02 sensor. Your car if it is a '96+ would have OBD II and cat-back 02. I don't know if I totally believe higher ZDDP HD oil will shorten it's life but it's something to consider. I don't think HD oil would help with piston slap which is usually harmless. I don't think there's much advantage to using anything other than a good SN 5W30.
Okay, that makes sense. Mine is a 2000 and definitely OBD II. I'm not concerned with the piston slap, as I've understood it to be relatively harmless, but thanks for the response.
Nice job there. I can attest to the idea that it is better to keep and fix up an old car than replace it with a new one. Sort of regretting it now, never will buy a new car again unless I make tons of money.
Did you have any toubles removing the upper part of the bearings from the piston rod? I was was curious how much room you had between the crank and the block to remove that part.
I am with you on keeping the old vehicle. A little periodic investment in parts and maintenance beats a car payment any day. I lost a lot of sleep while in between jobs, running away from the repo man. Unforeseen employment circumstances forced me to miss some car payments. I bought a used Expedition that had all the maintenance papers from day one, so mechanically, I have had hardly any issues and I know the history of the vehicle. The most expensive parts, tranny and engine are religiously maintained and body is solid and like new paint and interior is clean and well maitained.
Only regret was all the rust damage that cost me 3K to repair the day after I bought it...rear suspension rotted out, drive shaft fell out, ruining the transfer case and brakes and rotors were trashed. After that, I had too much into it to part with it, and couldn't sell it for what I bought it for with all that damage, but even with all that, I would have spent that in 6 months of car payments. I have had it for a year and a half now (that would have been 9,000 dollars in car payments)now I have a vehicle that is perfectly maintained and slowly adding new parts to replace rusted pieces. Have had 20K miles of trouble free driving and with proper maintenance expect to get another 100K, it is slowly getting built back to new condition and saved some landfill.
I am with you on keeping the old vehicle. A little periodic investment in parts and maintenance beats a car payment any day. I lost a lot of sleep while in between jobs, running away from the repo man. Unforeseen employment circumstances forced me to miss some car payments. I bought a used Expedition that had all the maintenance papers from day one, so mechanically, I have had hardly any issues and I know the history of the vehicle. The most expensive parts, tranny and engine are religiously maintained and body is solid and like new paint and interior is clean and well maitained.
Only regret was all the rust damage that cost me 3K to repair the day after I bought it...rear suspension rotted out, drive shaft fell out, ruining the transfer case and brakes and rotors were trashed. After that, I had too much into it to part with it, and couldn't sell it for what I bought it for with all that damage, but even with all that, I would have spent that in 6 months of car payments. I have had it for a year and a half now (that would have been 9,000 dollars in car payments)now I have a vehicle that is perfectly maintained and slowly adding new parts to replace rusted pieces. Have had 20K miles of trouble free driving and with proper maintenance expect to get another 100K, it is slowly getting built back to new condition and saved some landfill.
Texan4Life
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Originally Posted By: Fitz98
Did you have any troubles removing the upper part of the bearings from the piston rod? I was was curious how much room you had between the crank and the block to remove that part.
nope, after removing the cap you simply push the piston up into the cylinder. Then you can for the most part slide the top bearing half off the rod with your finger. If it is being stubborn there is enough room to let the rod come down next to the crankshaft where you can give the bearing a little more encouragement with something like a screw driver.
Quote:
My n00b question of the day... Why HDEO
I went with a HDEO to help do some cleaning. Also the stout add pack would hopefully aide in breaking in the new bearings.
edit:
Also forgot to mention for those curious, was the replacement bearings were aluminum. I think the originals were aluminum also.
Did you have any troubles removing the upper part of the bearings from the piston rod? I was was curious how much room you had between the crank and the block to remove that part.
nope, after removing the cap you simply push the piston up into the cylinder. Then you can for the most part slide the top bearing half off the rod with your finger. If it is being stubborn there is enough room to let the rod come down next to the crankshaft where you can give the bearing a little more encouragement with something like a screw driver.
Quote:
My n00b question of the day... Why HDEO
I went with a HDEO to help do some cleaning. Also the stout add pack would hopefully aide in breaking in the new bearings.
edit:
Also forgot to mention for those curious, was the replacement bearings were aluminum. I think the originals were aluminum also.
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