Engine restorer VS Rislone Compression Repair

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Having searched the old threads and not finding quite what i was looking for, i decided to put this one up....sorry if this is an old dog of a topic but im new and have great respect for the wealth of experience you have...

I have this old Astro van that puffs out blue smoke on start-up (valve stem seals?), doesnt smoke when driving, has low mpg (14-16)and LOTS of blow-by.

I already bought a can of Restore..... http://www.restoreusa.com/Engine_Restorer.html
.......but then discovered the Rislone product...... http://www.barsproducts.com/4442.htm .....

There is something that "rings" a little more "real" about the Rislone idea...im not expecting either product to be a mechanic in a can but my main reason for using a product like this would be to somewhat reduce the blow-by and thus reduce the dilution of the oil and hence reduce engine wear.

im running a catch can (water/air separator for compressor) that is collecting a lot of nasty looking stuff, idling has improved and she runs a little better for it....maybe im obsessing but after 1200 miles, the oil is looking a litle too dirty for my liking....I have a Bosch Distance plus filter on there with formula shell 10/40 and MMO.

please pass on your opinions and experiences with these products
 
If you have blowby, the oil will get dirty quick. I would use an inexpensive dino oil and change it often. Going a grade heavier may help, but nothing in a can will really help at this point, change the oil often say 2k or so to delay the inevitable. South Florida? I might try supertech 15w 40 and see how that does, but you will need short oci's to keep the carbon from killing the oil and lower end.
 
thanks Bryan, appreciate your words. I was running it on Amsoil 20w 50 for a while, liking the idea that the esters were getting to work and that the oil was thicker....yet the oil consumption didnt really slow that much and it got too expensive...so yes, i myself went to the idea of using a cheap, but not [censored] dino. i guess, like you say, i have to change more often....you think adding MMO is a good option, or not because it thins the oil?
 
I would try Valvoline MaxLife, in one grade heavier than speced, and Restore along with it. Be patient with the Restore (and the MaxLife), its takes awhile for full effect.

No miracles promised, but I can say this combo did well for me in the past with old beaters. Good Luck.
 
Some people would say since your adding that much oil just change the filter. If you are going to run the car until i dies okay. If you want get as much mileage as possible, keep the carbon from blowby out by changing often. Since you have used 20 50 , I would try an inexpensive 20w 50 dino and see if its better. I think maxlife and the sn rated oils help swell seals, but if you are getting oil past the rings, this may be of limited help. I might try though, you have nothing to lose. The nice thing is you are in florida and can get away with really heavy oil. Just for kicks I might try lubromoly mos2 , I have no idea if it would help, but I wonder if any moly on the cyl walls would help.
MMo will thin the oil so i'm not sure thats helping.
 
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I have tried both over the years in my old beater cars with extreme high milelage and puffs of blue smoke. Restore did in fact work. It very much surprised me, but it did work. Oil burning and smoking stopped and it ran better after one treatment. I would endorse this stuff and I dont endorse alot, even though Ive tried alot. Rislone did nothing and neither did Motor honey(but it looked the coolest) or Slick 50(I was young).
 
good feedback boys....some food for thought...I have a small stash of 10w40 to use up, some is Formula shell from BJs and there is some MaxLife but it is 10w40 too, after that i reckon the maxLife 20w50 will be the choice, or maybe a thick HDEO.

I did do the "just change the filter every 1500" thing but the oil never did really clean up much...normally using a NAPA Gold....im kinda stuck in a 'catch-22' situation.....anything i put in there to clean up/free up the rings doesnt get long to stay and do its work before it gets squeezed out!?

Spasm3....lubromoly mos2 is anew one to me, will check it out1

many thanks all!!
 
Since you've already purchased Restore why not try that one first? If that doesn't work for you then move on to something else. The best information on the subject will come from those who have actually used the product.
 
Originally Posted By: TurboJim
Since you've already purchased Restore why not try that one first? If that doesn't work for you then move on to something else. The best information on the subject will come from those who have actually used the product.


I agree since you have it , try it. I used it in an old ford truck blowby and leakage. It did not help much, but others report it helps. You have nothing to lose by trying it! I bet the rings are not stuck they are worn. You have obviously taken good care of it as its 22 years old and 277,000 miles! You have been doing something right !
 
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Spasm3....i have only owned it since Sept of 09....before that...who knows!...

prob gonna wait another 500 miles, drop some Amsoil flush in there with a cheap filter, flush 'er out, drop the black [censored] and then add clean MaxLife and the poor neglected, almost rejected can of Restore with a NAPA gold filter.

For [censored] n giggles i just ordered some Lubro-Moly MoS2 Anti-Friction Engine Treatment, I like the look of that stuff....I like this forum better!!

thank you kind sirs.....
 
Careful with the flush, you could loosen a lot of 22 year old sludge and block up the oil pickup screen. Most folks here advise against engine flushes, especially in older engines of unknown history.
 
It wouldn't be the first time i have flushed it, prob been done about 5 times by now...i wish you could have seen the very black, thick gunk that came out the first time...WOW, very smelly, horrible stuff....except this time, I will drop the pan, check the screen and maybe take some pictures for y'all!
 
Originally Posted By: stro_cruiser
It wouldn't be the first time i have flushed it, prob been done about 5 times by now...i wish you could have seen the very black, thick gunk that came out the first time...WOW, very smelly, horrible stuff....except this time, I will drop the pan, check the screen and maybe take some pictures for y'all!


Wow, +1!!!
thumbsup2.gif
 
no offence taken....please always ask what you need to ask!..how do I know i have lots of blowby?....

when idling, there are lots of gases coming back up thru the oil filler tube....also, instead of the PCV breather pipe taking air FROM the intake into the engine, the breather hose is acting as another exit for blowby gases since i saw clearly that the blowby was coming from the engine thru this PCV breather tube and back into the intake...hence, at the moment, my catch can is filtering gases from both the PCV valve AND the oil filler cap simultaneously.

My initial catch can set-up was just from the PCV valve but since there was still so much gas coming back up the oil filler tube, i figured what the heck and put a T in the line and added another hose to the filler cap....i thought that at least that way, the PCV breather hose would at least have a chance of pulling some fresh air thru the engine?

Once i put the "Restore" in the engine, i will only pull from the PCV valve.

the catch can is collecting a lot of stuff, i have to keep a close eye on it.
 
Looks like this topic is about ran dry. But since it has too do with restore I will add my .02.

Once I had a 99 sl1 saturn with a head that was cracked(read it would suck 3 quirts of 20w50 supertech oil from the pan and shove it into the radiator in 30-40miles.

I thought what the heck and tryed everything that I could. I even bought a 6 cyliner bottle of Restore. It did work well, I noticed a bit more power and it didnt use as much oil for about 3 days. I can only say that it worked when it was in the engine, once once it was ran out it went back too its oil transfering ways.
 
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