Coolant on Volvo S60?

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I just purchased this vehicle and plan on flushing every fluid in the vehicle as it doesn't look like the previous owner did in the last 85,000 miles.

Anyone care to chime in on what type of coolant I should be using?
 
Originally Posted By: r34dy2fly

Anyone care to chime in on what type of coolant I should be using?


How about Genuine Volvo coolant?
 
I am afraid to even answer after the controversy over trans fluid...sheesh...

But I personally stick with the Volvo blue-green. Volvo doesn't specify a change interval on it, but I think you're smart to change it.

cheers,
 
I use Zerex type G-05 and distilled water in my Volvo.

After a lot of reading and study of the issue, I wouldn't use anything else to replace the OEM antifreeze - except more of the OEM product if it were easy for me to get it. The G-05 is a very close near-equivalent and it is readily available at NAPA stores and other places.
 
Interestingly, both the Volvo Blue-Green and the Mercedes coolant are OAT - like the G-05.

But while my Volvo dealer wants about $30/gal for theirs, my M-B dealer only charges $17 for theirs.

Mercedes charging roughly half of what Volvo does for parts...now you know why people complain about Volvo parts...it must be shipped to Sweden, have Value-Added Tax stuck on it and then be shipped to the US...
 
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Anyone have any instructions on this? I know most european cars run their coolant via pressure and makes things harder to flush...

Is there perhaps a drain plug from the radiator that would push it out if i open up the cap?
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Interestingly, both the Volvo Blue-Green and the Mercedes coolant are OAT - like the G-05.

But while my Volvo dealer wants about $30/gal for theirs, my M-B dealer only charges $17 for theirs.


G-05 is, by every account I've seen from people who know, perfect to use in both modern Volvo and MB cars. It has the right chemistry to protect them the way they were designed to be protected by antifreeze. It was in the $15 per gallon range for 100% strength the last time I bought any and it can be bought in NAPA stores and other auto parts places all over the country and not just at car dealers. That's why I use it in my Volvo.

I am a stickler for using the right antifreeze, by the way. Both my Cadillac Northstars run Dexcool and I go to the Toyota dealer to get their red antifreeze for the Tacoma truck when I change it. I want my water pumps and head gaskets to last.
 
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You may be correct, but is the fact that both Volvo and G-05 are OAT the only consideration? It may be, but I don't know for sure if there are other components in the coolant that may be important for specific cars. Coolant is one of the few things that I always use OEM. How often do you change coolant. Is $ 60 for OEM coolant every 100k miles a significant difference compared to, say, $25 every 100k miles, especially in a high-end car? To some, maybe, but not to me.
 
From information on the Zerex website, being hybrid OAT makes it approved by Mercedes Benz and being phosphate free makes it compatible with Volvo and BMW also. I trust the Zerex recommendations, as they are still offering multiple products to best fit the requirements of different car manufacturers instead of pushing one universal product on us all like the most popular discount auto store brand of antifreeze.

I change antifreeze about every two years. The cost is not a huge issue for me, given what new cars and new engines cost. If I thought it would make a difference, I'd go buy the branded antifreeze at a Volvo dealer - like I do for my older Toyota truck that I think really needs the Toyota red antifreeze. I like that G-05 is available at better auto parts stores everywhere, though.

Maybe someone who can address the technical issues specifically will come along and educate us.
 
Originally Posted By: r34dy2fly
Anyone have any instructions on this? I know most european cars run their coolant via pressure and makes things harder to flush...

Is there perhaps a drain plug from the radiator that would push it out if i open up the cap?


It should be the same as my '02s - petcock on the bottom of the radiator by the lower radiator hose, and then a drain fitting in the steel coolant line on the rear of the block below the exhaust manifold - it's just to the right of the turbo (if you've got one...).

Drain it from both points, you'll get most of the coolant out. You can flush (sort of) by adding water to the expansion tank and when it runs out clear from both points, you're done. There won't be a lot of sediment - the coolant is too new. There will still be some old coolant in the heater core. The disconnect for that is on the firewall, but I wouldn't bother...the rear drain line will get some of the heater core drained.

I believe they hold 8Qts. So add one gallon of Volvo Blue green and then water to bring it up to level. There will be a lot of air trapped in it - I would loosen the upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing to get some of it out.

The Haynes manual on these isn't great, but describes it pretty well, and it's the only one I've found for the car, short of VIDA (the Volvo software). Your options on VIDA are to buy it for $800, or to download a pirated copy.

I have problems with both those options.

I can recommend one other site: www.volvoxc.com - while you don't own an XC -it's the same chassis and you'll find a lot of common procedures posted on the "resources" section that are VADIS/VIDA downloads.

Cheers,
 
Originally Posted By: TTK
You may be correct, but is the fact that both Volvo and G-05 are OAT the only consideration? It may be, but I don't know for sure if there are other components in the coolant that may be important for specific cars. Coolant is one of the few things that I always use OEM. How often do you change coolant. Is $ 60 for OEM coolant every 100k miles a significant difference compared to, say, $25 every 100k miles, especially in a high-end car? To some, maybe, but not to me.


Does the 3.2 hold that much? - my '02 cars hold 8Qts, requiring the purchase of only one gallon of Volvo coolant to mix 50/50.

Incidentally, I looked at changing the water pump when I did the timing belt, since the pump is driven by the T-belt and removing the T-belt on the 5 cylinder engine requires removing the crankshaft pulley, which requires removing the right front wheel and fender liner...looking at the 3.2 (6 cylinder in about the same space) I gotta' believe it's even worse...

But the advice from the dealer service department was to not bother, they said they rarely see cars for pump leaks until closer to 200K.

So, clearly that Volvo coolant works well in keeping the pump happy...
 
I'll have to pick up a gallon from the dealer I suppose when I get to Georgia. There are no Volvo dealerships in my immediate area.
 
Originally Posted By: r34dy2fly
I'll have to pick up a gallon from the dealer I suppose when I get to Georgia. There are no Volvo dealerships in my immediate area.

You would be smart to go OEM Volvo coolant. You have a very nice vehicle. Keep it as much "all Volvo" as possible and you won't regret it.
 
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