Synthetic, Lithium, 5% Molybdenum grease needed

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"The interior of the bell is hollowed out somewhat, meaning that the grease can't completely fling out, even if you could spin it fast enough. But realistic operating speeds are in the 600-700 rpm range on a joint that's only ~4" in diameter."
E-rock

Okay Chewbacca, here is your Toyota propagandist,

Do not be fooled,

Smooth talker have been dealing with him for quite a while,...

600 -700 RPM of the axle would mean about a 130 mph, given average tire size,,,

Do not be fooled by his smooth talk, although I feel you wont already have a good foundation of knowledge on the subject,

Before this gets out to be to much back and forth let me offer you a sample so as the Backwoodsgoop can be added to your list of greases,
 
Originally Posted By: IH8mush
600 -700 RPM of the axle would mean about a 130 mph, given average tire size,,,



Haha. This is your attempt to discredit me? You think the axle only turns 300rpm at 60mph? Your "average tire size" has a 67" rolling diameter.



How do you expect anyone to take you seriously? :lol:
 
Back to the original question, does Amsoil GWR fit the bill? I'm not sure on the moly content, but it's a lithium-complex #2 with "EP additives".
 
Originally Posted By: erock
Originally Posted By: IH8mush
600 -700 RPM of the axle would mean about a 130 mph, given average tire size,,,



Haha. This is your attempt to discredit me? You think the axle only turns 300rpm at 60mph? Your "average tire size" has a 67" rolling diameter.



How do you expect anyone to take you seriously? :lol:



So I was trying to figer out what Rpm a wheel was spinning at at 60 Mph,

Rather than measure the diameter of the tire, how many feet in a mile Pie times radius squared and all that happy stuff

I just looked a my tack going down the road in 3rd gear (AT) with the converter clutch locked up,

60 Mph 2500 Rpm on the tack, Ok so my driveline is rotating at 2500 RPM

My grear ratio is 3.50

divide 2500 by 3.5 714.28

Oh Wow your right, well that is plenty fast to fling all kinds of goop around in the knuckle, totally plastering the upper trunnion bearing,,,

And what is this E-rock, thinking about using a aluminum complex grease, when I mentioned that was a kick butt grease you said it was junk,

Wow, well nice try but sure you got me, why was I dividing 714 by 2 ?
 
back on topic
Chewbacca, this is what we use at the shop:

IMAG0111.jpg



I'm not saying it's the best stuff in the world, mind you, but it's consistant with what was put there in the factory. And it works.

We use a synthetic wheel bearing grease in the wheel bearings, and that moly graph stuff in the knuckles.
the factory put some yellowish opaque stuff in the wheel bearings, not exactly sure what it was (name brand and all that) but wheel bearings aren't THAT picky.

And FYI... I've NEVER replaced a birf due to wear of the joint. I'ver replaced a few due to wear out on the drive plates (80 series) and other reasons (breakage) but never for the birf itself being worn out.
That's in 15 years of working on toyotas for a living.
 
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Originally Posted By: 93Chewbacca
erock

I dont see any mention of moly additive on the features list, so probably not, but a call to Amsoil would surely confirm.
smile.gif



They use something as an EP additive, but as far as I can tell, they don't say whether it's molybdenum disulfide, an organic moly compound, graphite, or a combination. According to the MSDS, it's blue, so I'd tend to guess some sort of an organic moly compound. (emphasis on guess there)
 
The force on the grease that would tend to displace it from the joint is a function of the rpm and the distance from the axis of rotation.

Put a blob of grease on your crankshaft pulley at idle speed, it would be a good comparison.
 
Yes,

The centrifical force throws the #2 grease out away from the joint,

Chewbacca properly identified the need for a lube to "Flow" in this application,

At least move around a bit, Now Mr Chewbacca you identified the "need" or ideal lube to be thin enough to move yet thick enough to not leak excessively out the wiper seal,

Precisely ,,,

The "Window" of greases that one would look in and work with are the

#00 Grade
#0 Grade
#1 Grade,
 
Originally Posted By: Rix
That is incorrect.
#2 works justt fine.
Millions of toyotas on the road prove that.


Not The Case Rixxer not at all,

Now you have identified the function of grease to form a "Seal"

"Now keep in mind, especially on a mower, the seals are usually dust seals, the grease does a bunch of the sealing by itself."

Rixxer

Okay, Take this proper identification of a function of grease and transfer it from your lawn mower, to your axle,

The #2 grease does not form a "Seal" around the wiper seal as well,

Simply to "Dry"

The whole secret to the longevity that can be obtained with the proper form of grease, is the "Viscous" seal that forms around the wiper seal,,,

So same thing as your mower, the grease forms the seal, a grease that is not of a more fluid nature, #1 or thinner simply does not do this, much or at all,,

Dirt, Water , contaminates are wiped into the knuckle with out this barrier,
 
It is not "too dry". This is nowhere near an issue in this application. You're trying to make it seem there is ONLY the felt wiper seal, when there's a rubber wiper and a steel ring in there as well.
DO NOT try to compare the toyota solid axle to a mower, frank. They are nowhere NEAR the same thing.
And you are STILL wrong about factory assembled toyota axles.
I HAVE seen them, you HAVE NOT. This isn't even a debate. Your assumptions are wrong, your "rules" are made up, and incorrect. The grease you are trying to sell IS NOT what was used by the toyota factories.

This is rediclulous, frank. Just stop.
 
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I have real-world experience with THIS JOINT in THIS AXLE. Not as much as Rix, but a whole lot more than Frank.

My experience says that a birfield packed with a #2 grease will remain packed even after speeds over 1000rpm. Been there, seen it with my own eyes. The only way that grease gets out of there is if it's been contaminated and consequently thinned out.
 
Originally Posted By: Rix
It is not "too dry". This is nowhere near an issue in this application. You're trying to make it seem there is ONLY the felt wiper seal, when there's a rubber wiper and a steel ring in there as well.
DO NOT try to compare the toyota solid axle to a mower, frank. They are nowhere NEAR the same thing.
And you are STILL wrong about factory assembled toyota axles.
I HAVE seen them, you HAVE NOT. This isn't even a debate. Your assumptions are wrong, your "rules" are made up, and incorrect. The grease you are trying to sell IS NOT what was used by the toyota factories.

This is rediclulous, frank. Just stop.



This is not ridiculous rix

I will never stop, I am well aware of this axle design, studied it, studied all manufactures types of closed steering axles,

I have inspected 3 Factory Toyota axles with this form of semi fluid grease,

Your posts of a axle with #1 grease in it (for whatever reason)
Proves your own lack of understanding of grease,

manufactures use a #1 or thinner grease in a CV joint, this is what is in that axle, a CV joint,

CV joints are lubricated by a #1 or thinner grease, by virtually ALL manufactures,.

And to share the latest tid bit of information about CV joint lube to the "Bob is the Oil guy folks"

Often times replacement grease in the boot kits are the same for the outer fixed CV joint and the inner "Tripod" movable CV joint,

This is not ideal, the inner 'Tripod joint has needle bearings requiring a somewhat thinner lube, and some say no moly additives,

It is quite apparent when examining the grease in the inner boots, noticeably thinner and different color,
 
IMAG0172-1.jpg


This is the inboard Tripod CV joint lube,

The outer boot, thicker grease, looking very much like the lube your posting as #2 grease thinned by gear oil,

Rixxer, this is the type of grease found in CV joints, #1 or thinner,

#2 grease or multipurpose grease as listed in the Toyota FSM should NEVER be used in a CV joint,

This is Fact, Facts you are going to have to face,
 
You HAVE NOT studied "3 factory axles".
YOU have "studied" 3 UNKNOWN axles.
You are incorrect in this matter, frank. Sorry.
 
Originally Posted By: IH8mush
IMAG0172-1.jpg


This is the inboard Tripod CV joint lube,

The outer boot, thicker grease, looking very much like the lube your posting as #2 grease thinned by gear oil,

Rixxer, this is the type of grease found in CV joints, #1 or thinner,

#2 grease or multipurpose grease as listed in the Toyota FSM should NEVER be used in a CV joint,

This is Fact, Facts you are going to have to face,


frank.

IMAG0110.jpg

IMAG0106.jpg

those 2 packets of greasse CAME WITH A C.V. BOOT KIT.
From the manufacturer. And it was the same as the stuff IN the c.v. boot.
Your information is wrong.
 
those 2 packets of greasse CAME WITH A C.V. BOOT KIT.
From the manufacturer. And it was the same as the stuff IN the c.v. boot.
Your information is wrong.
Rixxer

My information is first hand, factory axle, thin #1 grade in the outer boot, #0 grade in the inner, or there abouts,

Please post the Part # for those boot kits,

What your posting appears to be to thick, especially for the inboard tripod joint
 
Who Built the axle,

GKN ?

NSK ?

Or NTN,

You mentioned GKN as being one of them that builds Toyota axles,

These are the folks that I learned about the inner tripod joint using the thinner grease,

So who built the axle ?

What is the part # of the kits, any information, any at all,

GKN and NTN and NSK all use a # 1 or thinner grease from production,

All of them, So Who builds this axle, what is the name on the boot kit,
?

ALL boot kits I have ever purchased have a #1 or thinner grease in them,
 
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