Oil & Types... *CBR600RR*

[HuskerNationRR]

Ok, I have been around cars/ bikes all my life. I feel like a no0b asking this question, but I don't get into the scientific, acknowledgment of oils. I know the difference between regular and synthetic. I have soon realized that some of your "Full synthetics" are really not full synthetic. That they lack an esther. My question is, with a high revving motor (my bike or any other car like that) what is the benefit of running "full synthetic", synthetic blend or 100% synthetic.

This might be a question some can answer, or just some motorcycle people can answer, but if you know the answer, please let me know, I ride my bike kind of hard. I have looked into getting, Maxima 530RR 4T, 100% Ester-based Synthetic Racing Oil. My question is, what is the difference between this and the Honda Synthetic Oil? Which is a better, and safer option for me?

Thanks
Nick

Vehicle Type: 2009 Honda CBR600RR

 

[08_SHELBY]

Welcome to the Group!
I have a 2001 929RR and a 87 1200 Kawasaki Voyager and use the Rotella T 15/40. It shifts smooth as silk and is highly recommended for my older 1200. A riding buddy has had many CBR600s starting with the first year made. He now has a GSXR750 Suzuki and he loves the Mobil 1 full synthetic sold at bike shops. That's all I can say except to make sure you use the Honda filter. Something about the flow rate not being up to snuff with fram etc... filters.
P.S.
Don't use the car oils because they have to much slippery stuff in them for the wet clutch to grab and work properly. If you do add any in an emergency or something, make sure the label doesn't say "Energy Conserving" on it

 

[HuskerNationRR]

Yeah, I have ran Mobile 1 4t already. I liked it, but it wasn't as smooth as the Honda Synthetic. I ALWAYS use Honda filters for that main reason. But like I said, I ride hard, and I know the Honda Synthetic breaks down faster than Mobile 1. What is the difference between a "Synthetic" and an 100% ester-base snthetic? There are never emergencies for oil, I check every time before I ride

 

[azsynthetic]

If you ride your bike hard like I do then the ester base synthetic will give you a better margin of protection. The ester based oil can withstand more heat and has a higher film strength. I run Maxima Ultra 0W30 in my 1000RR for both street and strip.

 

[mjoekingz28]

Maybe a full-synthetic would be ideal for the road course where you're working hard all day.

For temps above freezing a 15w40 Rotella should be all you need for the street and 1/4 mile track.


I think a full synthetic will allow long drain intervals, a semi=medium drain interval and a dino will give you 4000 miles.

Since the timing chain and sharing the sump with the gears will chew up an oil, I think you're better off with a higher 'winter' weight since it hinders shearing somewhat since it's a heavier base oil.

 

[Black_Thunder]

I ran rotella T 15w40 in my old FJ1200 and my dad and brother use it in there Honda Shadows.



in my Yamaha R1 i've been using Rotella T6 5w40

 

[rraiderr]

We track our gixxers 600,750 and 1000.

We have been using Amsoil and Maxima4 Ultra 50W and to date the oil analysis shows the stuff is holding up just fine even after multiple track days.

 

[RC46_Rider]

Hi,

If you are a very aggressive rider, you probably would benefit from any major brand synthetic. If money is not an object, Maxima and Motul premium oils are hard to beat.

I have used a lot of Mobil 1 4T 10W-40 with good luck in my Honda Interceptor, and a number of friends run it in sport bikes with no "oil related problems" but I was a little disappointed that EVERY oil analysis came back showing it had sheared down to a 10W-30 in about 2,000 miles. Based on that, I have decided to try some petroleum HDEO's (Delo 400, Rotella T, etc.) in a 15W-40 as a comparison. Bikes with shared transmissions, ESPECIALLY if ridden hard, and much, much harder on oil than a car. You would do well to keep your oil changes considerably shorter than the manufacturer of the bike recommends. I would be willing to bet a lot of money that you would be better off using a less expensive oil like Rotella T 15W-40 and changing it every 2,500 miles than using an expensive synthetic bike oil and going longer. ....again, this assumes you ride hard.

Like I said...if M-1 bike oil, which IS a decent oil, will shear down in slightly over 2,000 miles, that should be clear proof that long intervals between changes are not advised.

 

[mjoekingz28]

Maybe the manufacturers know the 40w oils will shear down. maybe they want a 10cst 30w oil in the sump and recommend a 40w based on that.

Also, as has been posted, Honda is now calling for 30w in some of their bikes. So now we can have the discussion of a 30w shearing to a 20w.

On my YZF600R, it called for 10w30 under 85F and 20w40 above 40F. I ran 10w30 in the winter and ran just fine with it.