Gentlemen, I'm on mission and need your expert advice. I just purchased the vehicle in my signature about 6 weeks ago. It has the 2.3 DOHC engine with the 5 speed a/t. On a recent road trip to Indiana i got 22.5 mpg with about 800 lbs. in the back, traveling 70-75 mph. My attempt to run a steady 60 mph without a cruise control proved futile. Got all that power ya know! I found an after market cruise control for $300 installed. What would be a good tire choice for improved gas mileage? I'm considering changing the engine, transmission, rear axle to Amsoil synthetic's and maybe increasing the tire pressure to 35 psi or so. What benefit can i reasonably expect with these changes? Do you have any other suggestions? I look forward to your opinion and TIA.
Ford Ranger gas mileage
- Thread starter HM12460
- Start date
- Status
ScanGauge or similar for "adjusting the nut behind the steering wheel". That'll have you holding 60 mph like a champ. It gets easier with practice and feedback.
Putting synthetics into the transmission and the rear end will definitely help a little bit. Also, a cap helps a little bit with fuel economy.
With the ScanGauge you can expect ~10% better fuel economy from listening to the feedback, more if you try harder.
Other modifications taken together will net incremental gains that will likely total about 1-2 mpg.
Putting synthetics into the transmission and the rear end will definitely help a little bit. Also, a cap helps a little bit with fuel economy.
With the ScanGauge you can expect ~10% better fuel economy from listening to the feedback, more if you try harder.
Other modifications taken together will net incremental gains that will likely total about 1-2 mpg.
Traveling 75mph doesn't help fuel economy.
@ 50-55mph, I get 31 mpg with a 5sp manual. Suggest slowing down and let the auto do its job.
@ 50-55mph, I get 31 mpg with a 5sp manual. Suggest slowing down and let the auto do its job.
I would think any decent name brand passenger car tire aired up a few psig over door sticker may help some. LT tires or aggressive tread m/s tires, not so much. I'm not sure how the synthetics would help unless they were less viscous under all conditions, but it can't hurt. 22.5mpg avg with 800lbs in the back at 70-75mph is outstanding IMO! That would probably mean ~24+ with nothing in the back? Awesome. Even for a little truck. I know my dad's 1998 Ranger 2.5L 5spd man barely saw high teens for fuel mileage, but then again, it never saw any real length of highway travel.
Changing the diff. and tranny fluid is a great idea, but it won't help mileage any, been there done that many times. I wouldn't expect a noticable difference with syn. engine oil either.
As mentioned above, Do 65 instead of 75.
What tires are on the truck now? Oversize tires will hurt mileage. Read the sidewalls. The max cold pressure will either be 35 or 44 psi. Put them at or just under these numbers. Have not seen an auto equipped 2.3 get to 30+ mpg. The stick jobs will do it. Go to Fuelly.com and look over the numbers for I4 Rangers.
As mentioned above, Do 65 instead of 75.
What tires are on the truck now? Oversize tires will hurt mileage. Read the sidewalls. The max cold pressure will either be 35 or 44 psi. Put them at or just under these numbers. Have not seen an auto equipped 2.3 get to 30+ mpg. The stick jobs will do it. Go to Fuelly.com and look over the numbers for I4 Rangers.
I used to think going 75 was only a minor hit to the MPGs.
It is actually much more substantial than going 60.
Go to the website 'Tire Rack' for great tire info.
It is actually much more substantial than going 60.
Go to the website 'Tire Rack' for great tire info.
Hermann
Site Donor 2023
On two recent trips on the interstate, one being in a hurry and the other not, the trip that I kept the cruise on 67 MPH netted 27 MPG. the trip at 75 MPH netted 22.7. The wind and weather conditions were very similar. It does make a big difference especially in pickups.
The real culprit with the auto tranny and 2.3 is the differential. I believe the ratio is probably 3.73 or so.
A steady 60 mph will help you more than anything. The scangage I would say is second. I seriously doubt you can justify the sythetics, but give it a try.
A steady 60 mph will help you more than anything. The scangage I would say is second. I seriously doubt you can justify the sythetics, but give it a try.
I used to have a duratec ranger and noticed a small improvement after switching all fluids to synthetic. I drove 200km a day on the highway and I would hit 32 USMPG regularly. I drove 60, aired up the tires and used the a/c sparingly.
Originally Posted By: Warlord
I used to have a duratec ranger and noticed a small improvement after switching all fluids to synthetic. I drove 200km a day on the highway and I would hit 32 USMPG regularly. I drove 60, aired up the tires and used the a/c sparingly.
Auto tranny?
I used to have a duratec ranger and noticed a small improvement after switching all fluids to synthetic. I drove 200km a day on the highway and I would hit 32 USMPG regularly. I drove 60, aired up the tires and used the a/c sparingly.
Auto tranny?
If the tires are still OEM (Continentals?), they're probably the best for low rolling resistance. Those and the General Grabber HTS are decent LRR tires.
Originally Posted By: MrCritical
Originally Posted By: Warlord
I used to have a duratec ranger and noticed a small improvement after switching all fluids to synthetic. I drove 200km a day on the highway and I would hit 32 USMPG regularly. I drove 60, aired up the tires and used the a/c sparingly.
Auto tranny?
No. It was a 5 spd. I'm working to try to buy this truck back actually. I loved it that much!
Originally Posted By: Warlord
I used to have a duratec ranger and noticed a small improvement after switching all fluids to synthetic. I drove 200km a day on the highway and I would hit 32 USMPG regularly. I drove 60, aired up the tires and used the a/c sparingly.
Auto tranny?
No. It was a 5 spd. I'm working to try to buy this truck back actually. I loved it that much!
Originally Posted By: Warlord
Originally Posted By: MrCritical
Originally Posted By: Warlord
I used to have a duratec ranger and noticed a small improvement after switching all fluids to synthetic. I drove 200km a day on the highway and I would hit 32 USMPG regularly. I drove 60, aired up the tires and used the a/c sparingly.
Auto tranny?
No. It was a 5 spd. I'm working to try to buy this truck back actually. I loved it that much!
The auto kills the mpg on these 4cyl trucks because they team it with low numeric ratio differential gears.
Originally Posted By: MrCritical
Originally Posted By: Warlord
I used to have a duratec ranger and noticed a small improvement after switching all fluids to synthetic. I drove 200km a day on the highway and I would hit 32 USMPG regularly. I drove 60, aired up the tires and used the a/c sparingly.
Auto tranny?
No. It was a 5 spd. I'm working to try to buy this truck back actually. I loved it that much!
The auto kills the mpg on these 4cyl trucks because they team it with low numeric ratio differential gears.
Agree with MrCritical that sometimes comparisons are difficult because Ford(and all others) will use a different rear gear for the auto vs. stick. HOWEVER, it is almost always the other way around. They put numerically lower gear ratios in the auto versions, so the sticks tend to rev a bit more at a given speed.
An auto trans is a big fluid pump that the stick does not have to power. This is true even when the torque converter clutch is engaged(no slippage).
On the 2010 model, I THINK(not sure)that the auto version had the same 3.73 that the stick got(std. cab). Did find out though that if you got the extended cab with the 2.3, you got a 4.10 gear with the stick(don't know about the auto)
An auto trans is a big fluid pump that the stick does not have to power. This is true even when the torque converter clutch is engaged(no slippage).
On the 2010 model, I THINK(not sure)that the auto version had the same 3.73 that the stick got(std. cab). Did find out though that if you got the extended cab with the 2.3, you got a 4.10 gear with the stick(don't know about the auto)
Last edited:
On Chev S-10 pu's the rear end ratio is 4.10 with the auto and 3.73 with the manual.
I have the 2.2 four cyl and the auto, going sixty I do get 32, going seventy five i get 23 to 25 mpg.
I wish i could have found a ford, but the S-10 is ok.
I have the 2.2 four cyl and the auto, going sixty I do get 32, going seventy five i get 23 to 25 mpg.
I wish i could have found a ford, but the S-10 is ok.
Oh Yeah? My wife's Tahoe with the 4.10 gets 15 doing 70-beat that
Steve
Steve
syn fluids in driveline have helped mpg on EVERY car I've done, except for a 97 miata.
97 pathfinder: front, rear, tcase, and AT. 1.5 mpg increase, hwy commute
97 subaru legacy AWD 2.2L. MT, front and rear gears (MT and front is same) 1 mpg increase, hwy commute
93 jeep ZJ, front, rear, AT, Tcase, ~1-1.5 mpg increase
2007 Tahoe (friend's), distance commuter, (it's how I convinced him to do it) front, rear, tcase- 1 mpg
2008 Jeep WK 2wd. rear axle, different (thinner per msds ATF+4 syn-castrol) 1-1.5 mpg increase.
Note: I've had the best numbers with Mobil 1 fluid. Not as much with Valvoline. All the above numbers are from mobil gear oil unless mentioned here. Trans depends on what the vehicle needed... the p-finder I think was a QS full syn. The legacy got Dyson Syngear II (it was a long time ago). the zj Tcase got Mobil syn atf.
Note 2: the miata may have improved-- I just wasn't tracking mpg in the once-a-week car.
Note 3: I generally have never seen a mpg increase from syn engine oil, but absolutely for driveline.
Note 4: mobil syn ATF with Lubeguard LOST 1 mpg in my accord over Z1. It was a thicker (and quieter) ATF.
97 pathfinder: front, rear, tcase, and AT. 1.5 mpg increase, hwy commute
97 subaru legacy AWD 2.2L. MT, front and rear gears (MT and front is same) 1 mpg increase, hwy commute
93 jeep ZJ, front, rear, AT, Tcase, ~1-1.5 mpg increase
2007 Tahoe (friend's), distance commuter, (it's how I convinced him to do it) front, rear, tcase- 1 mpg
2008 Jeep WK 2wd. rear axle, different (thinner per msds ATF+4 syn-castrol) 1-1.5 mpg increase.
Note: I've had the best numbers with Mobil 1 fluid. Not as much with Valvoline. All the above numbers are from mobil gear oil unless mentioned here. Trans depends on what the vehicle needed... the p-finder I think was a QS full syn. The legacy got Dyson Syngear II (it was a long time ago). the zj Tcase got Mobil syn atf.
Note 2: the miata may have improved-- I just wasn't tracking mpg in the once-a-week car.
Note 3: I generally have never seen a mpg increase from syn engine oil, but absolutely for driveline.
Note 4: mobil syn ATF with Lubeguard LOST 1 mpg in my accord over Z1. It was a thicker (and quieter) ATF.
Last edited:
I'll add that if hwy speeds require deep pedal, a free-er exhaust will help. But if little throttle is needed to cruise, it won't gain you much.
I've seen no real evidence, or legitimate theory, to suggest intake mods will help mpg.
Tire pressures up, and all-season or hwy tires, or touring tires tend to return better mpg that all-terrains.
I think the bed cap depends on truck and driver. I've seen studies that show on some trucks they can reduce mpg. I've seen studies showing that tailgate nets hurt hwy mpg, but may help around town.
#1 factor-- driving habits!!
I've seen no real evidence, or legitimate theory, to suggest intake mods will help mpg.
Tire pressures up, and all-season or hwy tires, or touring tires tend to return better mpg that all-terrains.
I think the bed cap depends on truck and driver. I've seen studies that show on some trucks they can reduce mpg. I've seen studies showing that tailgate nets hurt hwy mpg, but may help around town.
#1 factor-- driving habits!!
Last edited:
Doing 60 mph will probably get you near 30 mpg for the trip. Leaving the tailgate up also is probably best to for aerodynamics, according the folks at ecomodder.com.
I do some mild drafting too, you can be way back of a truck and still get some benefit and with a side wind you can be in the other lane even. If your roads are garbage then don't bother...
I do some mild drafting too, you can be way back of a truck and still get some benefit and with a side wind you can be in the other lane even. If your roads are garbage then don't bother...
- Status
Similar threads
