Snow Blower ReEngine - Harbor Freight 6.5 - PICS!

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I scored this old snowblower for free earlier this winter. It leaked fuel out of the carb and wouldn't run at all. I fixed the leak and the no-run problem (ignition was grounding when it shouldn't have been) and got it to run. It ran for a few minutes before it banged/clunked/crunched. It no longer has any compression, so I'm pretty sure the engine failed internally; I'll do a tear down when it warms up!

Since the unit it still solid, especially the auger unit, I decided to install a new engine on the chassis. After some research on BITOG I decided to go with the 6.5 HP Harbor Freight / Greyhound 66015. In addition to getting great reviews on the Harbor Freight (HF) website (if you can trust those), the engine is only $99 if you get your hands on the coupon. An absolute steal! Another bonus is that the physical specs on the HF engine match the existing Tecumseh H60-75216H almost exactly. Shaft centerline height, mounting holes, shaft and keyway size and "shaft face" mounting holes are all identical.

I believe this snowblower to be a Lambert from a picture I found online of a Lambert snowblower. There is no brand-name labels on the unit, just a placard with a model number (53600300 FA9) and an address (P.O. Box 377, Des Moines, IA 50302). That address once lead back to "Western International Inc."

Some surface rust, but the unit is really solid. I plan on cleaning up the rust and repainting this summer. For now I just need to get it running for the remainder of the snow season. We are basically at record snow levels this season in Minneapolis.
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Engine removed. Thankfully it was 4 bolts and not studs.
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Clutch/Spring loaded pulley tensioner. This bolts to the engine face with two of the four tapped holes.
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File photo of the HF engine. Going to purchase this weekend.
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More info and picture to come!
 
If you turn the big, main pulley by hand the whole assembly turns amazingly smooth. No resistance, no play.
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Quite impressed. I'm going to have to find some good fluid to refill that gearbox with to keep it running well.
 
You're going to need a couple 8mm bolts for the pulley system. You've likely got 5/16 on there now.

Consider drilling a 3/4" or so hole in the baseplate for oil drains so it can drain straight through the machine. Or get a form a funnel.
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I'd be curious to see how that spring loaded blower drive clutch assembly mounts up. I wouldn't think the Chonda has drilled and tapped holes in the exact same location on the block as the original engine, but you never know!

Joel
 
I'll be interested to read and see how the HF engine mounts to the blower, and how it runs once bolted on. Very nice that the shaft alignment and mounting holes are identical. Neat little project.

Also interested in your overall thoughts about the HF engine after purchase and after you've run it on the blower for awhile. But, for $99 it sure seems worth a shot.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
You're going to need a couple 8mm bolts for the pulley system. You've likely got 5/16 on there now.

Consider drilling a 3/4" or so hole in the baseplate for oil drains so it can drain straight through the machine. Or get a form a funnel.
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Ah yes! Thank you! I did read in the specs that they are 8mm. Totally forgot. Was just heading out the door to get longer bolts to mount it.
 
I've used those HF 6.5's on a bunch of things from go karts to snow throwers with great luck. Some of those engines have over 3000 hours and still run well. In snow thrower application, I have always dropped the float bowl, unscrewed the jet, drilled it out to the next larger size and re install. Years ago you could get a Honda GX jet kit that would work, but due to EPA mumbo jumbo, you can't buy them anymore. If it's cold, those engines run too lean in stock form. When drilling the jet, you have to use a series of bits so you keep the taper. This way the jet continues to atomize the fuel properly.
 
If that snowblower has shear pin(s) be sure to remove them and check that the section where they go is not rusted together. Then lube it up so it does not rust together.

Lubing that area is something you should do every year before you put it away. Some units have zerk fittings, even if it has them for a old unit like that, unless you know that the previous owner took good care of it, you should remove the pin(s) and check for rust.
 
Originally Posted By: JTK
I'd be curious to see how that spring loaded blower drive clutch assembly mounts up. I wouldn't think the Chonda has drilled and tapped holes in the exact same location on the block as the original engine, but you never know!

Joel
If it bolts to the SAE J609 PTO flange mounting holes, those haven't moved in 50 or 60 years. That engine should bolt up with little trouble I would say.
 
Yes, the engine flange/PTO pattern is still the same as the old Tecumseh. 3-5/8" square. The only difference is that this new engine is tapped for 8mm (1.25 pitch / coarse) whereas the Tecumseh is 5/16".

I bought the engine today! On the way home I grabbed some Kendall GT-1 5w-30 Synthetic Blend at AutoZone; the new API SN stuff. Wow oil is expensive! Even the generic AutoZone brand was $3.29. This Kendall stuff was $3.49. Never bought Kendall oil before, thought I'd give it a shot.

Anyhow, I got some work done in the dark so I was unable to take pictures, yet... I got the clutch/spring assembly mounted first and it needed some adjustment. Mounting it directly to the engine made another bolt in the clutch assembly interfere with the engine face. It just needed two washer to provide the proper spacing. Pictures on that later.

I also mounted the engine to the chassis with 3/8"-1.5" bolts (the existing diameter bolts). I found out though that the base mounting holes on the new engine are just a hair smaller than 3/8" (9.5mm). I'd guess they are 9mm. A quick bore-out with a 3/8" bit was all that was needed.

Another issue "now" is that the rod for the chute control hits the engine. Before I bought the engine I assumed this would be an issue, and it is. I had to loosen the chute rod mount on the handle to make the engine bolt-up. Have to think up a way to fix this later.

The old snowblower also had lost its 3/16" pulley/crank key and worm screw. The new engine came with a new key installed in the keyway, but I found it was a hair too large for my liking. I would have had to hammer the pulley on which I didn't want to do. Thankfully I bought a new 3/16" x 1" key at Lowes on the way home, not knowing the engine came with one. The Lowes one fit much better.

I also ran the engine for a couple minutes before I put it away. 91 octane, non oxy. gas. Seemed to run just fine!

More pictures and info tomorrow.
 
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Originally Posted By: flatlandtacoma
If it bolts to the SAE J609 PTO flange mounting holes, those haven't moved in 50 or 60 years. That engine should bolt up with little trouble I would say.


Thank you Sir. I hadn't thought about that.

The only other unrelated issue I see with this snowblower is based on the pics, it looks like there is some wicked clearance between the impeller blades and the housing. That can make for a rather weak thrower. Perfect candidate for one of those rubber scraper add-on kits for the impeller blades. It would throw like a banshee with that.

Joel
 
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The impeller kit JTK is referring to is the Clarence Kit. With that much clearance, I'd look at putting an a 1/4" thick or thicker stainless steel liner to take up the slack.
 
I was wondering about that impeller clearance. I've never owned a two-stage, so I don't know what's normal. I'll check into that, thanks!

Made lots of progress today. Clutch/pulley assembly is mounted, belt is back back on and it's running now to break it in.

Here's the washers between the engine and clutch mouting plate. I ended up with three washers in each of the two holes. I also ended up using a 20mm long bolt to mount this.
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The clutch assembly bolt that requires the spacing on the assembly.
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All together
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With pulley and belt
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The clutch/pulley shroud fit without modification.
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The next task: modifiying the chute rod. It hits the underside of the carb. I also want to come up with a better way to drain the oil, like a hole in the deck like was mentioned above. I wonder if they sell drain extensions like on retail snowblower? The drain hole is pretty small, so the tube would have to be quite small in diameter.
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+1 to that. Looking REALLY good. I believe this one has required the least amount of fab work, fitting and tinkering that I've seen yet. The factory belt guard/cover even fits back on!

If you poke around on u-toob or the likes, you'll see most re-powers required quite a bit more creativity to get pulleys lined up and required accessories to mount properly. This one was a cinch.

You could paint it up nice, put the "Clarence" kit on it and some snowhog tires and you'll have one kick arse machine.

Joel
 
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