royal purple SAE 30

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i have a push mower with a 6.5 briggs on it. have always ran castrol SAE 30. would it be ok to run royal purple in it? i change the oil in it once a year, can i go longer intervals with the RP? will it offer a better amount of protection for the engine?
 
Most air cooled engines do better with synthetics. Being that they are air cooled the Synthetics hold up better to the higher temps.
I know a lot of new lawn equipment now specs synthetic only.
You will be fine with any synthetic.

I run Rotella T 5w40 in my Toro Recycler at one year intervals.
It's great stuff that holds up to the high Texas temps.
 
ok thanks man. ive heard stories that small engines with flinger type oil systems shouldnt be run with synthetics, dont know if theres any truth to it.
 
Actually - you will find quite a few folks on this site who have had good luck with 5W-40 or 0W-40 syn, including me.
 
Originally Posted By: mobilaltima
i have a push mower with a 6.5 briggs on it. have always ran castrol SAE 30. would it be ok to run royal purple in it? i change the oil in it once a year, can i go longer intervals with the RP? will it offer a better amount of protection for the engine?

Can you use it? Sure. Can you extend the interval? You can if you want but I would not. You have no way to remove contaminants from that oil without draining the oil (no filter.) Better protection? Maybe. Are you mowing foot high grass in 110° heat with clogged cooling fins? Or do you have reason to believe the Castrol has not been holding up the whole season? If your cooling fan, fins, and shroud are all okay and you aren't overworking the engine, you might not see any benefit from a synthetic.
 
"you might not see any benefit from a synthetic."

I'd say he won't see any difference at all with the engine maintained and operated as you've stated.

I've got engines that were built by Tutankhamun and have run nothing but conventional oil all of their lives. They're still going strong. I mean, really, if engines have been running well and lasting long since they were invented, lubricated by conventional oil only, why the sudden necessity for synthetic oil? Marketing hype possibly by oil companies looking to make a quick buck?

If the engine will be seeing extreme use/abuse and extended OCI periods, synthetic would be preferred. However, on an OPE engine seeing 50 to 100 hours of normal use annually, using synthetic is unnecessary.
 
Agreed that extended oil changes on engines without an oil filter is not the best idea. After switching from a so-called synthetic (Super Tech) to Amsoil, I gained a lot of run time from a tank of fuel, this being said there are benefits of running synthetic over dino in small engines
 
Originally Posted By: troyb43
Agreed that extended oil changes on engines without an oil filter is not the best idea. After switching from a so-called synthetic (Super Tech) to Amsoil, I gained a lot of run time from a tank of fuel, this being said there are benefits of running synthetic over dino in small engines


That sounds like a line from the Harley guys.

When they switched to Amsoil, their mileage improved so much that they had to stop a gas stations to donate fuel!!

I'm not buying it.
 
Sorry you don't buy it, however, don't knock it till you try it. I had no idea run time would be longer before I switched over. The main reason I switched was I observed wax in the Super Tech oil bottle and did not want it in my engines.
 
"Would it be OK to run Royal Purple in [a push mower with a 6.5 Briggs & Stratton on it]?"

Yes, OK, but as flatlandtacoma said, engines without a spin-on filter recirculate wear debris and if you really want to do best by your OPE engine, do not extend the oil interval.

The only significant advantage to running a synthetic in OPE in the summer time is easier pull-starting. As [b[boraticus[/b] points out, mineral oils have been lubricating these machines for over half a century with some machines lasting decades of hard use.

Want something really stout for running these engines in warmer weather? Trade in your SAE30 regular oil for a 15W-40 HDEO like Chevron Delo 400, Pennzoil Long Life or Shell Rotella. It's relatively cheap and has a stout additive package for cleansing and reducing wear.

SuperDave456: "I know a lot of new lawn equipment now specs synthetic only."

I haven't see this. Care to cite a few examples?
 
If you're operating the mower above 50F, all you need is a good 30 weight like rotella. Changing the oil in your mower already puts you wayyy above 95% of the population. Save the money you'd spend on synthetic and buy lunch to eat while you change the oil.
 
Bror and Boraticus,

There is/was lots of internet banter in the past claiming that the one thing synthetics ACTUALLY DID accomplish in air cooled engines was lower operating temperatures.

FYI, I have been running Rotella 30W in my Kawasaki powered z-turns, but am a little concerned that they have removed the gasolene rating from the product.

Comments?
 
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Operating temperatures are relevant.

If the oil is capable of handling 350 degrees and the engine is running fine a 280 degrees, does it really matter that synthetic oil brought it down to 275 degrees?

Does it make sense to pay two to five times the price of a very good conventional oil just to lower temps by a few degrees which, in turn really does nothing significant for the engine?

There are places where synthetics are superior and should be used. However in isn't necessary in OPE being operated under normal conditions.

This discussion has been had a million times. Engines running both types of oil will be just fine. The only negative is the unnecessary expense and waste of synthetic oil not being fully utilized.
 
Agree ... synthetics in warm weather only really come into their own when you are torturing the engine with heat ... which you should not do, of course.
 
"I like using synthetics in my snowblower and plow tractor in winter time."

This is what synthetics are most useful for ... cold weather performance (assuming you have to start these engines in cold temps).
 
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