Ya don't see many of these - Saab 3.0L V6 Turbo

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I haven't seen too many UOA's of Saab engines and certainly not one of their 3.0L V6 with assymetrical turbo. So I figured I'd run a UOA on my car and post it here for y'all to see. Blackstone did the analysis and they're supposed to send the results to Terry Dyson for his expert commentary and insight but I thought I'd post here first, then after reading some of your comments post Terry's.

code:

CAR TYPE - 2000 Saab 9-5 SE sedan

ENGINE - 3.0L V6 light pressure turbo

OIL BRAND - Mobil One 10W-30 Tri Syn

OIL FILTER - Purolator Pure One

AIR FILTER - K&N

MILES ON CAR - 30,379

MILES ON OIL - 6,529

MAKEUP OIL - none

*************************************************

ALUM: 4

CHRO: 2

IRON: 18

COPP: 5

LEAD: 1

TIN: 0

MOLY: 13

NICK: 0

MANG: 0

SILV: 0

TITA: 0

POTA: 2

BORO: 53

SILI: 12

SODI: 6

CALC: 1049

MAGN: 1397

PHOS: 704

ZINC: 852

BARI: 0

*************************************************

SUS @ 210*F: 59.6

FLASHPOINT: 375*F

FUEL%:
ANTIFREEZE%: 0.0

WATER%: 0.0

INSOLUBLES%: 0.4

*************************************************

TBN = 6.5

*************************************************


All comments, opinions, thoughts and ramblings welcome.

[ March 12, 2003, 07:22 PM: Message edited by: bretfraz ]
 
Iron seems a bit higher than the rest, but I bet it's colder weather related since the lead numbers are so low. It's a pretty good showing for Mobil 1's old formula, what did you change over to now?

[ March 12, 2003, 07:59 PM: Message edited by: Patman ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
Iron seems a bit higher than the rest, but I bet it's colder weather related since the lead numbers are so low. It's a pretty good showing for Mobil 1's old formula, what did you change over to now?

Running 3 quarts of the same Tri Syn 10W-30 and 1.5 qts of 10W-30 Super Syn. I depleted my stash of TS and had to mix in the new stuff.

I should have added that the above mileage was 50% extended interstate driving and 50% local suburban driving. And the oil was in the engine from mid October to mid February.
 
What kind of cold temps did you see this winter? Was it below 32F quite often where you are? If so, then the iron numbers are probably double or even triple what they would show in warmer weather. Without a doubt, your iron will be way lower on this next interval.

I'm almost frightened to see how my iron numbers are going to look on my next UOA. There were dozens of mornings here this winter where it was below 10F, with quite a few in the -5 to -10F range! Thankfully our cold weather appears to be over for the year.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
What kind of cold temps did you see this winter? Was it below 32F quite often where you are? If so, then the iron numbers are probably double or even triple what they would show in warmer weather. Without a doubt, your iron will be way lower on this next interval.

We got some temps in the 20s and 30s. It was a colder winter this year than last. But my car is always garaged and is never below 50 while parked. I'm sure your thoughts are correct about the iron wear and temps.

How do the rest of the numbers look to you?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Quick_lude:
I'd say for a turbo engine and 6500 miles that's a pretty good analysis. Would you be willing to try the M1 0w40?

I think M1's 0W-40 is the ideal oil for these cars. It's ACEA A3/B3 which is recommended by Saab and it will provide the high heat protection I need, especially during the hot & humid summers we get here in Georgia. My only beef with 0W-40 is price. I bought that 10W-30 Tri Syn for under $3 per quart. I had to buy two additional quarts of Super Syn at $3.76 each and it killed me
wink.gif
But if I could find 0W-40 close to $4 per quart I'd probably use it. If not I'm happy with the 10W-30. I've spoken to a few Saab mechanics who felt that 10W-30 was ideal for Saab engines like mine.
 
quote:

Originally posted by bretfraz:

quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
What kind of cold temps did you see this winter? Was it below 32F quite often where you are? If so, then the iron numbers are probably double or even triple what they would show in warmer weather. Without a doubt, your iron will be way lower on this next interval.

We got some temps in the 20s and 30s. It was a colder winter this year than last. But my car is always garaged and is never below 50 while parked. I'm sure your thoughts are correct about the iron wear and temps.

How do the rest of the numbers look to you?


The rest of the numbers look very good! And just think, if the iron was lower, those other wear metals would be lower also, since the slightly higher iron would've caused slightly increased wear overall on the other metals too.
 
Bret, I inadvertantly emailed your interpretation back to Blackstone yesterday, you should have it now, if not let me know. I think I need a new eye glass prescription !
crushedcar.gif


Terry
 
Considering its the Tri-Syn I think those numbers are really good-especially for a turbo. They are about thesame as my son's Cavlier with 8500 miles. I think that was a really good report and his car is not turbo:
Vehicle Miles- 71,300
Miles on oil- 8300
Oil Analysts Inc.

LT- Less Than
Fe- 15
Cr.- 1
Cu- 9
Ni. - LT 1
Al- 7
Pb.-10
Tin- LT 1
Silver- LT .1
Si- 13

Boron -76
Na- 9
K- LT 10
Moly-20 (Made up with 15W-50 M 1 SS)
Phos-797
Zinc 914
Ca,-1290
Magnesium-1340
Vis-11.4
TBN-7.12
Note 1.5 quarts makeup including 1 qt 10W-50 M1 at filter change.


These are some of the best numbers I have seen for M1. The car is driven pretty hard although lots of highway miles.

My last thought is perhaps you should consider a quart of the 15W-50. I know I've harped on this a bunch of times and I do understand the drawbacks. It's merely a suggestion.
smile.gif


[ March 13, 2003, 09:50 AM: Message edited by: Al ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by bretfraz:
I think M1's 0W-40 is the ideal oil for these cars. It's ACEA A3/B3 which is recommended by Saab and it will provide the high heat protection I need, especially during the hot & humid summers we get here in Georgia. My only beef with 0W-40 is price. I bought that 10W-30 Tri Syn for under $3 per quart. I had to buy two additional quarts of Super Syn at $3.76 each and it killed me
wink.gif
But if I could find 0W-40 close to $4 per quart I'd probably use it. If not I'm happy with the 10W-30. I've spoken to a few Saab mechanics who felt that 10W-30 was ideal for Saab engines like mine.


How much is the 0w40 up there? Here in Toronto the prices are very close.. maybe a 50cent difference..
 
At the auto parts stores that stock 0W-40 the price is right at $5 per qt. I've never seen it on sale or discounted.

Most of the other M1 viscosities sell in a range of prices depending on promotion, local competition, things like that. The Tri Syn 10W-30 I used was purchased at Target for $2.94 per qt which was on clearance. Sometimes my local WalMart will price 10W-30 and 5W-30 at $3.76 per qt to match a nearby competitor's price. But if things are "normal" the price for M1 is around $4.10 per qt. So prices as you can see are all over the place. Gotta shop carefully to get the screamin' deals.
 
Does everyone agree that the last few Mobil 1 analysis have been very good? Mainly the 7-10k mile drain oil we have recently been seeing. I really think Mobil 1 can handle extended drains.
smile.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by buster:
Does everyone agree that the last few Mobil 1 analysis have been very good? Mainly the 7-10k mile drain oil we have recently been seeing. I really think Mobil 1 can handle extended drains.
smile.gif


Mobil 1 looks to be doing very well at the 6000 mile mark in the extended interval test on the 2002 Z28 convertible. I commented that 10k doesn't seem out of line for that oil.

[ March 14, 2003, 05:13 AM: Message edited by: Patman ]
 
One thing about these analyses that is overlooked is how long it took you to accumulate the # of miles. If you run 6000 miles in 3-4 months you will get better analysis results than if you do lots of short trip driving and it takes you an entire year to run 6000 miles.

Even if you do lots of running around town; putting on 20k-25k miles per years means the engine is never cooling down. Oil contamination is much more severe while the engine is warming up. This has a dramatic effect on your oil analysis results.

TooSlick
 
Good points Ted!

Everyone really needs to do their own oil analysis to be 100% sure of how the oil handles their own situation. Viewing other people's reports, even with the same oil, same climate and same engine, is only a rough guide as to how it'll handle your own situation.
 
Very true. Time is crucial and plays a big role. I'm sure Amsoil actually could handle 20k + miles if they were put on in less then 1yrs time. People forget that it's 25k or 1yr, which ever comes first.

smile.gif
 
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