leaks!...synthetic to conventional at high mileage

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I know, I know Synthetics DONT cause leaks, I'm a firm believer in that.

I did however just finish a 6K run on Castrol syntec in my 170K mile civic, and noticed a large amount of oil coating my oil pan. I checked it prior to the run, and it was fairly dry.

I'm 100% sure the car had been run on dino its entire 14 year life so far and possibly longer OCI's, that it might have just tidied things up enough to expose some issues with the pan gasket.

I changed it to Quaker State green bottle, I'll report back in 5K/
 
My S10 had also been run on dino, mostly VWB, for it's whole life. At about 100k, I made the dumb decision to switch to M1 5w30. Within a few thousand miles, I had leaks from a number of places. Switched back to dino, and the leaks are virtually gone. I know most guys say switching to synthetic will not cause leaks on older vehicles, and I used to be one of those guys- I had done it on several other vehicles, until it happened to me... I'm done switching on vehicles with over 50k on them or more than about 5 years old.
 
You have to start running the Synthetic oils a bit longer to give them plenty of time to start oxidizing and leaving behind enough deposits to plug the various gasket holes.

Of course a few short intervals with a synthetic oil, after having used dino for years, will clean up the engine and expose some leaks.

I too had some issues with the oil level getting low VERY fast in my neighbors 05 Accord 2.4L with 150k when i started using synthetic for the first time.

I would have to add 1-2 quarts per 4k OCI (cleaning phase)

Once i started running it for 8K for a few OCIs all oil consumption has stopped. It now has 190k and the oil level stays the same for 8,000 mile OCIs.

Of course every engine is different and some cars should just stick to dino oil and shorter OCIs.
 
I read the leaks will eventually clear.The synthetic apparently cleans a lot of deposits left behind by dino.I have no idea if this is true or not but it sounds feasible.

Quote:
if such engines (mileage of 60,000 – 100,000 km and more) operate with mineral oil, carbon deposits (e.g. on piston rings or valve guides) can develop over the years. The engine is likely to be polluted, because mineral oils are thermally less stable than synthetic ones.

Due to the rinsing and cleaning effects of some synthetic engine oils, carbonisation and deposits are being removed by and by. Since the cleaning process in an engine does not take place simultaneously and homogeneously, higher oil consumption is possible during the transitional period. The oil consumption, e.g. in the piston rings area, will normalise after the rings are rinsed clean and clear.



http://www.bizol.com/eng/abc.php?term_abc=&term_next=0&term_id=39
 
m happy we are getting some real-world experience that take vehicles "Fed dino their whole life" and/or "Sludged" or whatever, and start leaking, even though that "Cant" or "Doesnt" happen.

Im not sure id be brave ebough to keep using an oil that made it do that if my previous oil (or if just buying a car and could have had absolutely anything from good to bad used as oil and you dont know, so you start with your favorite one) did NOT cause leaks, or had a reputation for STOPPING leaks, MOST of the time.

Unfortunately, NO oil will fix EVERY leak EVERY time, but im many situations, i find my favorite high-miles wins the battle of oil choices just by not making it do anything new.. like leak.
smile.gif
 
Yeah, I was more interested rather than concerned.

I'm going to do a 5K run on the Quaker state, and see how it is.

OH, and it was the older formula GF4 SM Syntec 5w30.

It seemed to do quite well for 6K miles, the oil was very black, and I might have pushed it a little farther than I should have being its first synthetic run, but no harm done.
 
I switched my Eclipse over to synthetic at 102k mi. Haven't had a problem with any leaks and my engine is clean enough to eat off of. I guess i'm just a lucky one though.
 
Originally Posted By: LunerEclipse
I switched my Eclipse over to synthetic at 102k mi. Haven't had a problem with any leaks and my engine is clean enough to eat off of. I guess i'm just a lucky one though.


That was how things went with the Lincoln LS that I no longer own... never a problem. The wife's old Cobalt... no problems. Switched my S10 over... leaking like a screen, till I switched back to dino. It's the luck of the draw. Some vehicles will be able to switch with no issues, but some won't like it!
 
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This is a topic I wish we would explore more at BITOG... I've been at this long enough to know when the "Myth" is NOT a "Myth"... there is definitely something to the synthetic oils leading to more "weepage" / leaks.

I am not buying the "it cleans out false seals", I've personally maintained vehicles that from all clues short of ripping the engine apart are very clean (spotless valvetrain) Switch to M1 or PP (my personal experience) and leaks start to show up...

Most recently I'd been running maxlife HM in an older SR20DE, switch to M1 HM... leaks start again.
 
I agree with tensecondz2. My experience has been a gamble, some work some don't

Plus, my experience is leaning towards saying that synthetic use develops leaks after 150,000 more so then dino even when used from when the engine was new.
 
Originally Posted By: TenSecondZ2
This is a topic I wish we would explore more at BITOG... I've been at this long enough to know when the "Myth" is NOT a "Myth"... there is definitely something to the synthetic oils leading to more "weepage" / leaks.

I am not buying the "it cleans out false seals", I've personally maintained vehicles that from all clues short of ripping the engine apart are very clean (spotless valvetrain) Switch to M1 or PP (my personal experience) and leaks start to show up...

Most recently I'd been running maxlife HM in an older SR20DE, switch to M1 HM... leaks start again.


There are so many here that say that what you are saying "Cant happen."

I have swiched oil in cars and i, too, am always leary of putting ina full synthetic oil. Leaks might happen, cleaned away debris or dirt or sludge or whatever.

Thats the main reason i DONT have synthetic in my car now. its the old debate of dino vs syn!

I think it might be a chemistry thing?

And how would Group V oil liek Redline do, its supposed to "Stay on the parts"?

coffee2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: ryan2022
I know, I know Synthetics DONT cause leaks, I'm a firm believer in that.

I did however just finish a 6K run on Castrol syntec in my 170K mile civic, and noticed a large amount of oil coating my oil pan. I checked it prior to the run, and it was fairly dry.

I'm 100% sure the car had been run on dino its entire 14 year life so far and possibly longer OCI's, that it might have just tidied things up enough to expose some issues with the pan gasket.

I changed it to Quaker State green bottle, I'll report back in 5K/


Testimony to after 170000 miles of motoring why switch to synthetics when you are on a good thing ?

Good on you switch back and do what works for you.

Many on this site claim that they have switched back and forth at any mileage or vehicle age, good for them, I wouldn't risk it.
 
The pricing has come down so much re. synthetic if you start with syn as I did in my Civic stay with syn. Why not??? Leave well enough alone.
 
Originally Posted By: virginoil
Originally Posted By: ryan2022
I know, I know Synthetics DONT cause leaks, I'm a firm believer in that.

I did however just finish a 6K run on Castrol syntec in my 170K mile civic, and noticed a large amount of oil coating my oil pan. I checked it prior to the run, and it was fairly dry.

I'm 100% sure the car had been run on dino its entire 14 year life so far and possibly longer OCI's, that it might have just tidied things up enough to expose some issues with the pan gasket.

I changed it to Quaker State green bottle, I'll report back in 5K/


Testimony to after 170000 miles of motoring why switch to synthetics when you are on a good thing ?

Good on you switch back and do what works for you.

Many on this site claim that they have switched back and forth at any mileage or vehicle age, good for them, I wouldn't risk it.



Meh, it's fine to switch
My 96 SL2 has seen anything from no name (appeared to be SOPUS oil) to Pennzoil Platinum and a few brands in between.
Just this weekend it went from PP to PYB.
Runs fine like always, have not had any problems with leakage on this engine. (Other than a warped POS valve cover which I replaced)
 
Hi guys,

well, I mainly did it to use up some old containers after my wife's Mazda had been changed. I gave it a good run and drained it.

Actually, I've switched TWO civics over the years with similar mileage to synthetics, and didn't have trouble with those. I think its a luck of the draw, brand of synthetic, weight of the synthetic, earths position with the sun at the time of the change, and possibly something to do with the farmers almanac. lol
 
Originally Posted By: ryan2022
I think its a luck of the draw, brand of synthetic, weight of the synthetic, earths position with the sun at the time of the change, and possibly something to do with the farmers almanac. lol


I tend to agree
lol.gif
 
Originally Posted By: SuperFast
Originally Posted By: ryan2022
I think its a luck of the draw, brand of synthetic, weight of the synthetic, earths position with the sun at the time of the change, and possibly something to do with the farmers almanac. lol


I tend to agree
lol.gif



Sums it up about right.
 
Originally Posted By: Alex38
Originally Posted By: SuperFast
Originally Posted By: ryan2022
I think its a luck of the draw, brand of synthetic, weight of the synthetic, earths position with the sun at the time of the change, and possibly something to do with the farmers almanac. lol


I tend to agree
lol.gif



Sums it up about right.


Agreed, Obviously YMMV, but I see this topic come up and get dismissed immediately as it never happens or is due to neglect or defect - false seals, not possible, blah blah...
 
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