Anti-seize On Lugnuts?

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I have always been told that anything on lug threads would cause them to possibly back off and become loose,that they should be threaded on dry and torqued to spec. for the particular application.A friend of mine had a flat on his MB that has lug bolts(not the usual US setup of nut on stud)in trying to change the flat the bolt heads twisted off and he had to drill out and replace the lugs.Upon replacement he,against my suggestion,coated the new lug bolts with anti-seize i feel he has created a dangerous situation.Does anyone agree with me or am i being anal about this,opinions please,or better yet am i right or wrong om this?
 
I've heard of the "your wheel will fall off" etc for years. I've been using anti seize on lug nuts for over 30years and have yet to have one come loose on its own. I actually under torque them to account for the lubrication.
In the aircraft industry all wheel bolts are lube torqued.
 
For years, my Chevy dealer would always put a drop of ATF on each bolt before replacing the lug nuts. It kept them from rusting, the nuts never loosened and in the thirty years I went there, I never had any issues. This was done each year when I had my vehicles inspected and the tires/rims rotated.

I know that it is said that the torque readins are not true if you do this and that you can indeed overtorque. Perhaps someone else can chime in on this.
 
I have done it both ways, with anti-seize and without but always wire brushed the threads. Never a problem either way.
The times I did use anti-seize, I'd work a just a little bit, not no gobs of the stuff.
 
Anti seize to your hearts content! The only thing AS will do is prevent rust from building up there and making removal (perhaps on a cold, dark highway emergency lane) impossible.

The only way a bolt can 'unscrew' itself is if it's so loose that 'normal' vibration spins it off..or that dastardly bolt loosening gremlin infects your wheel. But I understand he's been eradicated in this country....
 
Well,i stand corrected!Thanks for the replies,i have been under the wrong impression for all 30+ years you guys have been making it easy on yourself,will use for future use.
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The torque spec is for new clean threads. As the threads get corrosion, they require more starting force. Anti-sieze counteracts the effects of corrosion and brings the system back to the original clean thread spec.

Just my opinion.
 
It's supposed to be a big no no because it totally throws off the torque readings for one. Were I live we don't have problems with salt etc.
I never use anti-seize. I would say to maybe use WD-40 if you have to and keep on the low side of the torque range. I have read a study on how much the torque value changed when anti-seize was used.
I would say keep lube off the lug nut face whatever you do.
 
For over 40 years I used oil or anti-seize on my lug nuts and never had a problem. Then I starting reading all the posts saying it was such a bad thing and the nut and studs had to be clean and dry...well thats what I started to do on all my cars and during the few years I did the clean and dry method I had
4 broken studs due to jammed lug nuts. Needless to say I'm back to using anti-seize.
 
Originally Posted By: 4ever4d
I have always been told that anything on lug threads would cause them to possibly back off and become loose,that they should be threaded on dry and torqued to spec. for the particular application.A friend of mine had a flat on his MB that has lug bolts(not the usual US setup of nut on stud)in trying to change the flat the bolt heads twisted off and he had to drill out and replace the lugs.Upon replacement he,against my suggestion,coated the new lug bolts with anti-seize i feel he has created a dangerous situation.Does anyone agree with me or am i being anal about this,opinions please,or better yet am i right or wrong om this?
"You'll shoot you eye out",Ralphie.
 
Originally Posted By: FZ1
Originally Posted By: 4ever4d
I have always been told that anything on lug threads would cause them to possibly back off and become loose,that they should be threaded on dry and torqued to spec. for the particular application.A friend of mine had a flat on his MB that has lug bolts(not the usual US setup of nut on stud)in trying to change the flat the bolt heads twisted off and he had to drill out and replace the lugs.Upon replacement he,against my suggestion,coated the new lug bolts with anti-seize i feel he has created a dangerous situation.Does anyone agree with me or am i being anal about this,opinions please,or better yet am i right or wrong om this?
"You'll shoot you eye out",Ralphie.

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All I use is a wire brush on the threads and have the bolts sitting and soaking in a container of Liquid Wrench.

The lubrication properties of Liquid Wrench helps to make the job easier when taking the lug nuts off the next time the wheels need to be removed and cuts down on any rust, corrosion or dirt build up. I use Liquid Wrench all the time and especially in the winter....with all the road salt they spread on the roads....corrosion is a major issue in my hood.

I've never had a problem with them loosening and never lost a wheel. That's amazing, considering all the potholes in NYC from this winter and winters past.
 
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