Ballistol

[Pablo]

Why no Ballistol chat on BITOG?

I broke down and bought a bottle today. Wets nicely and really appears to lube well and gun parts move nicely with just the thinnest film. I cleaned and lubed the Sig P225. I will add more thoughts as I lube my gun collection and do some more shooting.

For years I have used mostly mil spec light rifle oil for oil needs and more recently I bought a bottle of Rem Oil for preservative oil. I also use Amsoil MP (light) for some clean up and ultra light lube and appropriate Amsoil grease when grease is required.

 

[xxch4osxx]

The Amsoil MP is all I use for my guns, works great for me.

 

[Pablo]

I too like MP for light lube.

 

[G-MAN]

Ballistol leaves the longest lasting film of anything I've ever tried. And it's the best thing at deleading a barrel I've ever tried. It really works under the fouling quickly and breaks it loose.

 

[rclint]

I have tried most gun oils, and none compare to Eezox, next up is Corrosion X, then if you need to look into a grease in certain parts/applications that's a whole new game.. I'm not trying to start a M1 thread bash here, but I have seen some use M1 or posting on forums on the use, but it's worthless as a gun lube.

Do a google on rust protection test you will find eezox is bar none the best, it's also a dry lube which is so much better than a soaking wet gun/parts.. which only collects gunk, grit, powder etc creating more wear in areas that need it.

I'm not one at all for a one does it all chemical, but eezox comes closer than anything I have seen, however I use it mostly for rust protection, and very light friction reduction, on other parts that see harsher duty I prefer a moly based dry lube, a light grease used very sparingly, and to really make people think I'm crazy copper anti-seize used in place of grease/oil on friction parts again used very sparingly.

If you do use eezox, you must lay down 3 coats, and very very light coats to get the rust protection, let it dry in good warm heat, a nice sunny day will do fine outside to evaporate/dry/flash off the carrier, the eezox is supposed to be some kind of of synthetic that is so small that fills the microscopic grain of the substrate (used substrate as a word as metals, steel, aluminum, titanium etc it works on all). 2 times as i said, first time will not do much, second time will look much better, third is the charm, just enough to "wet" not soak the metal.

Many many things beat most gun specific oils marketed, silicon, wax being one of my favorites etc. but the eezox eliminates the need for cleaning bores of rimfires (22 lr) and greatly reduces copper fouling in centerfire, and as well the higher velocity rimfires such as 17 hmr etc.. but if you have a .... rough (read mostly factory) barrel then you need to lay down some lead/copper to have a chance of shooting anything worth meaning to begin with LOL... Sorry I have been spoiled by using top of the line equipment for far to long... Lilja can make a barrel that will never need cleaning other than pulling a rag down to remove powder fouling or if shooting 22 lr changing ammo brands to remove the wax in order to lay down current ammo selection wax. Wow I went way out on a tangent sorry

 

[rclint]

I'm not in any way trying to start a war here, but lead is a hot subject. I'm not to smart a feller to begin with, so take what i post with a grain of salt. Copper is pretty easy to remove from a barrel, ammonia will attack it, as will other solvents... wipeout has been the best at removing copper from anything, and cleaning a bore of anything i have used, but lead is a different story.. it's one of those metals that just does not react to any chemical that i know of. Now you can use a rod down the middle of your bore, and use some fancy electric battery with a solution inside the bore carrying an electrolyte to remove the lead, however this itself takes time as you have to keep removing powder fowling, and the other various alloys that are mixed in with the lead, and the process itself will create gunk layer on top of the lead that you will have to clean, so it's a plate, clean, and repeat many times process.

BUT if your laying down that much copper/lead the the barrel is well factory for lack of better terms, however some cartridges are in fact on the very fringe of design... and that is speed, 4,000 fps will give you a nice stake in copper if your into investments, I don't remember the velocity with lead, but lead is like women, so many alloys, hardness, and then you have those magic super secrete well you get the idea. This is not so bad, you don't want to reduce the bore size by no means as can happen with lead, but the copper (gilding metal) will fill in imperfections helping to a point, again lead I'm not so familiar with as I was laying down wax when shooting lead.

 

[Pablo]

rclint - have you tried Balistol? Just curious what you felt it's weaknesses are.

I may try Eezox someday. As I stated here and other threads, some of my guns are 25+ years in my possession and I have not used any of these magic lubes.

Gun lubes. Engine oil. Gear oil. Funny no one has favorites....

Just kidding!

Someday we could all go on pig hunt, or just plink.

 

[SilverC6]

Ballistol for me.

It was factory fill for HK for a long time.

It's great stuff.

 

[AMC]

Ballistol is the best hands down. One of the best cleaners, great lube, great rust preventative, works on everything, safe for plastic, rubber, leather, wood and so much more. I have tried a lot of gun products and none impress me as much as ballistol. Read the pages and pages of information in the link below and try it for yourself, you wont be disappointed.

http://www.firehawktech.com/Ballistol/index.html

 

[Pablo]

My Ruger convertible 357/38/9mm was filthy nasty today. I fired quite a few rounds through it - of quite the variety of ammo. Both cylinders were grubby. I basically soaked them in Balistol. The stuff started to bubble and foam.

Gun is now spotless.

 

[Pablo]

Almost forgot - the stuff has a stink, or rather the aroma kinda bugs me a bit, like Simple Green but heavier with the anise. I actually like the smell of anise....Ballistol is different.

Quote:
The Odor of Ballistol

Ballistol has a distinct odor. It comes from a medicinal oil contained in it, which is called Anethole. Anethole is derived from a plant called Pimpinella Anisum L. The odor fades away after approximately 20-30 minutes of contact with the air. After approximately 60 minutes Ballistol becomes a practically tasteless and odorless substance. Ballistol has been approved by the USDA for use in the Federally Regulated Meat and Poultry Industry in areas with no direct contact with food. Some people like the odor of Ballistol, some don’t. Just like beauty is in the eye of the beholder likewise, what is a good or bad odor, is in the nose of the sniffer - so to speak. If you like the smell of licorice, anise cookies, Uzo, Pernot or Aguardiente you will probably also like the smell of Ballistol.

Ballistol has been around for over 90 years. Three generations of hunters, shooters, outdoorsmen and soldiers have tested this product. They may not all have liked its odor but they sure found it to be the best!

 

[Johnny]

Originally Posted By: Pablo
Why no Balistol chat on BITOG?


Maybe because you misspelled it. Try this.

Ballistol on BITOG

 

[Pablo]

Not sure why I thought it only had one “L”. Ballistic has two “L’s” for heaven’s sake. I think I’m losing it.

They say the eyesight mind is the first thing to go.

Maybe that explains my need for better sights on the Sig!

Thanks for the search links. Good reading.

 

[stumpman]

I mix Ballistol and LC-20 1:1. It smells much better, almost like a magic marker. And it seems to clean fouling much better than just Ballistol by itself.

 

[rclint]

http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/corrosion/corrosion2.html

Ballistol is a decent lube/cleaner etc, but it does not protect against rust near as well as eezox, however at the same time ballistol may clean better than eezox, as I said none of them are perfect for everything... and I had rather use a specific cleaner when cleaning the bore of a centerfire rifle etc, and for sure a pistol as you mentioned wipeout at that time would be my choice hands down.

The link above shows just a sample of eezox, I can;t find a link now but they have one on the web somewhere that has salt water sprayed regular for a month or so, and eezox won hands down.. that and the fact it's completely dry no messy gun.

I guess I came off like a know it all or a eezox only, but I tried to be very detailed etc in my experience, and I of course never mentioned the large amount of money I have wasted chasing down cleaners, rust protection etc.. I have what is called rusty fingers, I used eezox to protect around $30,000 worth of firearms I at one time owned... and some were well over 25 years old. so it is very safe, they have a website, and it has a smell as well wintergreen almost.. you have to sniff/taste (haha) to know

 

[Tempest]

I've used Eezox in the past with good results but the base is a rather nasty solvent and has a very strong smell. I still use it on safe queens but the solvent and smell quickly turned me off for regular use.

I never have used Ballistol but it gets good reviews. Supposed to be very people friendly which is good. This is OLD technology though, and far from state of the art.

 

[rclint]

Tempest I agree about the smell of Eezox, as well I also use gloves (nitrile) or any type of non marring/chemical protection glove when applying any type of rust protection. I do disagree with you however on just using them for safe queens as the smell flashes off, and you have a dry gun that is protected from rust, rain, the eliminates when used as a hunting gun for sure, and range time, I use it for all rust protection, and treat the bore because I have found it makes cleaning so much easier, not near as much build up in the bore, and you don't have to worry about oil in the bore when hunting etc as the bore is dry, and protected..

Dang I'm starting to sound like a commercial, but I really did have a hard time finding a true rust protection for my firearms, I also use it on my lathe tooling, collet chucks, handles.. I think the first application is pretty much a cleaner, next is a first true application so to speak, at least three applications is needed, and I do four most of the time, this may take me a week doing it in my spare time, however this will last a year, and that's putting it mild, I would not be surprised if Eezox did not protect during normal use (range time, hunting light rain etc) 1.5 years or more. and a side note Eezox gives a true rust blue, or a god hot blue a deep dark black you just have to see, I guess depth of the blue is what I'm trying to say.. however I use it on everything stainless etc.. also if I'm not mistaken it cleans/seals plastics, composite stocks.

It's not very expensive at all in a small purchase to try, and it's well worth it, I myself purchased the pint, or quart and still have half or more, and that's been years ago.. and I split it up in small glass jars, you need to use metal or glass for storage, and air tight or it will flash off.

 

[Pablo]

So now after a month of weekly (or more) trips to the range and 5 guns and a lots of different ammo, I pretty much think Ballistol doesn't have much use in my arsenal. It cleans light powder from some manufacturers, but it doesn't touch the heavy stuff. I gave it a good go. I think it cleans lead pretty well from new and refurbished barrels and I may keep a can on hand for that. It makes an OK rail lube, but there are better choices.

I dunno, but I started with higher hopes. I do like it as cylinder soak on the six shooters and it seems harmless to polymers. It's just not much of a powder cleaner.

 

[Paul2007]

Hi Pablo,
I always enjoy your posts. I have a Ruger GP-100 357/38 and a 10/22. I use an easy variation of Ed's Red. Take a can of Berryman B-12 Chemtool from the auto store, and put half of it in the tank of a car. The other half I mix with Dex/Merc III ATF in the metal can. The B-12 Chemtool has 4 or 5 solvents and alcohol; the ATF is a very good oil and cleaner too. For lubing the trigger and cylinder shaft, I use Liquid Wrench L-7. It has a ceramic reinforced teflon that stays put.
BTW, I use Saber at 50:1 in my OPE, great stuff!

 

[Pablo]

Sounds interesting - just don't get it near wood and some polymers.

I probably shouldn't be too harsh with my criticism of Ballistol. I soaked the barrel of my beater Blackhawk and lots and lots of junk came out with a vigorous brushing.