Cam Break-in

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Hey guys I'm getting ready to break-in my new cam in my 64 Mercury with a 289. What I was wondering about is this, I've heard that there isn't the anti-wear additives in "modern" oils today and from what I've heard from two Cam companies I should use an oil additive fortified heavily with zinc and phos, during the break-in process. What I would like to know is this, is there a good oil additive that I can get off the shelf that will do the job, and what do you think about whether I need an additive at all? This additive is specifically for the break-in process and will be drained after the 1500 rpm for 30 minute cycle, and will probably never be used in the engine again. Anyway thanks in advance for any info.
 
I don't know about 'off the shelf', it really depends on your local retailers. I noticed the Advance Auto in NC started carrying the Lucas high Zinc oil additive but I haven't seen any elsewhere.

If I were going to add an additive, it would be GM E.O.S. (see you local GM dealer.)

If I were going to order a Z & P additive, would be
http://www.competitionproducts.com/Howar...ductinfo/99000/

However, check the shipping, that could make it more expensive.

Me personally, would look for some HDEO or dedicated break in oil, such as Brad Penn 1 30 weight or other botique blends.
 
look as a person who lost many cams when oil changed i suggest you run a really good break-in oil or compcams add for break-in. you also need to do at least 500 miles with alot of zddp. i would suggest running more break-in oil after cam break-in.
most engine shops carry comp product. and alot of parts stores carry break-in oils from RP or lucas. another option is running Vr1 with an additive and after. rotella is also an option if the cam is not too aggressive. i suggest rotella and comp cams add for the break-in and and oci or two of rotella after.
i know it doesnt make much sense but you might be better off running the break-in lube for a few miles rather than dumping it so soon unless you have more on hand to replace it with.

just make sure you have ALOT of zddp at first and slowly take it down after
 
First, I would recommend using a low-ash, non-synthetic racing oil for the initial break-in with whatever additive recommended by the camshaft maker. You'll need to change the oil and filter after the initial break-in run as the moly disulfide lube included with most cams finds it way to the oil filter and clogs 'em up.

For the first 500 miles, continue using a low-ash, non-synthetic racing oil. The racing oil will have all the ZDDP that you will need. Once you pass the 500 mile mark, you should be able to switch over to a regular synthetic oil. Just be aware that SM and SN rated oils contain less ZDDP by law in the 20W and 30W families so you may want to boost their averages by adding a ZDDP product or use an HDEO 40W oil.

Personally, I used synthetic 10W-30 racing oil in my restored Vettes since they seldom accumulated 2,000 miles a year. YMMV.
 
I'd go to Red Lines site and check out their Break In Oil Additive. It just the ticket for breaking in a cam.
 
Thanks guys for all the replies. I was considering after the break in period using amsoil amo 10-40, it should have all the zinc I need without having to put in additives right? Why shouldn't I use synthetic until after 500 miles? The reason I didn't want to use this during break-in was manly cost, is there a reason other than cost that I shouldn't use it during break-in or right after break-in? Anyway thanks in advance for all your replies.
 
Originally Posted By: k9jadon
Thanks guys for all the replies. I was considering after the break in period using amsoil amo 10-40, it should have all the zinc I need without having to put in additives right? Why shouldn't I use synthetic until after 500 miles? The reason I didn't want to use this during break-in was manly cost, is there a reason other than cost that I shouldn't use it during break-in or right after break-in? Anyway thanks in advance for all your replies.



some engine builders say it takes a little longer to seat rings on a new engine with syn, but they dont recommend not to use it. as far as a cam swap i cant think of any reason not to run a syn except cost. alot of break-in oils are synthetic.
 
Originally Posted By: k9jadon
Thanks guys for all the replies. I was considering after the break in period using amsoil amo 10-40, it should have all the zinc I need without having to put in additives right? Why shouldn't I use synthetic until after 500 miles? The reason I didn't want to use this during break-in was manly cost, is there a reason other than cost that I shouldn't use it during break-in or right after break-in? Anyway thanks in advance for all your replies.


electrolover:some engine builders say it takes a little longer to seat rings on a new engine with syn, but they dont recommend not to use it. as far as a cam swap i cant think of any reason not to run a syn except cost. alot of break-in oils are synthetic.


Ya, since the engine has around 10k miles on it it is already broke-in. Johnny I'll get some photos posted after I get it cleaned up and beautiful, if the moderators will allow it that is . Guys, thanks again for all the advice.


Eric
 
You are smart to consider an additional break in additive.
You are smarter if you continue to use something additional.
A non energy conserving oil in a heavier weight will have additional zinc, but it may not be enough.
A lot depends on how hot your cam/springs are.
 
What about "assembly lube"? I heard that some have high amounts of ZDDP, and can be added to the motor oil to fortify it.
 
Any diesel HDEO should be more than up to the task. They are formulated to deal with far greater loads than what you'll find in a flat-tappet gasser. That's all the builder I know uses in his circle track engines and hi-po builds.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
HDEOs have been castrated a bit , too.
They are not to be relied on 100%, esp with aftermarket hot cam stuff.


I think a lot of the issues with "hot cams" is the junk cam cores. The builder I spoke of uses Crower pretty much exclusively and has had no issues that I am aware of using plane-jane Kendal 15w40 in his builds.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
HDEOs have been castrated a bit , too.
They are not to be relied on 100%, esp with aftermarket hot cam stuff.


I think a lot of the issues with "hot cams" is the junk cam cores. The builder I spoke of uses Crower pretty much exclusively and has had no issues that I am aware of using plane-jane Kendal 15w40 in his builds.

Been a while since I checked but at one time the Kendall GT-1 was high on the zinc, lower than average on Flash Point. Well that's what comes to mind, but the mind ain't what it used to be.
 
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