Subaru/Robin generator

[RF Overlord]

Just purchased 2 Subaru/Robin 4300-watt portable generators to provide home back-up for myself and for my M-I-L, who needs an oxygen machine.

Being a good little BITOGer, I'm already planning the 20-hour initial oil change and want some opinions. Manual says 10W-30 or 10W-40 is recommended for general, all-temperature use. I was wondering if there's a good reason why I shouldn't use 5W-30, specifically PP. I always have some left over when doing a change on the cars, and this seems like a logical place to use the excess (engine takes 1L).

If it helps, the engine is a model EX27. TIA

*EDIT* Temps here range from single digits in dead of winter to high 80's in summer.

 

[tig1]

I have the Robin engine in my Coleman 5000 watt gen and use M1 10-30. I would think 5-30 PP would be fine.

 

[oggb]

5w-30, 10w-40, whatever.

Most of those little engines live long, healthy lives no matter what weight/brand of oil you use.

 

[JimPghPA]

If you use mono weight dino 30 for the break in you want the ambient to be above 40 F and even better yet above 50 F.

The oil used in gen-sets should be good for extreme cold and extreme hot, because when you put the oil in you do not know what the ambient temperature will be when the gen-set is used.

These air cooled engines are tough on oil because they run at 3600 RPM to make 60 HZ regardless of the load on the unit. And being an air cooled engine they do get very hot on a hot day.

GC is a great oil because it is shear reaistant, maintains good protection on hot days, and flows well to allow the engine to turn easy when pull starting it in extreme cold.

You want an oil with a high amount of ZDDP. Perferably an oil that is SL rated or JASO-MA rated. Rotella T6 would be a good choice. (Note Rotella 10W-30 is not JASO-MA rated.) M1 TDT 5W-40 or M1 0W-40 would also be good choices.

I would stay away from PP as it is SM rated, and not SL rated.
The newer SM rated in the XW-30 weight range in general have a lower amount of ZDDP and therefore are not as good a choice for air cooled OPE. On the back of the bottle there is a double circle (doughnut like). Look inside of that circle. Your PP will be SM. Maybe even the newer SN.

The XW-40 and XW-50 weight range like M1 TDT and M1 0W-40 still have a good amount of ZDDP, and are also a more shear resistant oil.

I would also keep a couple of quarts of M1 Vtwin 20W-50 for days when the ambient is going to go near or above 100 F.

 

[cronk]

My vote would be 10w30 HDEO, Rotella T5 10w30 is a great oil for small engines. Amsoil also makes a great 10w30 oil for small engines.

 

[dakota99]

Yeah i personally would choose 0w40 or 0w30 GC. Since these are synthetic oils you can also run them longer.

Off topic kinda but SL/SM isn't what determines the zinc / phosphorus level, GF-3/GF-4 did that. For example M1 0w40 is SM but has 1000 ppm phosphorus and 1100 ppm zinc. Not trying to be rude in any way jim it's just confusing

 

[Best F100]

All of the above are good suggestions. If cost is no object (we are only talking 1 liter here), I would choose Amsoil Motorcycle Oil. Comes in 10W30 (MCT) or 10W40 (MCF).

I'm using the Amsoil 10W30 (MCT) in my 13kw Generac, Standby home Generator - and I'll vouch for it. With a 10 cst@100C, HT/HS of 3.5, Flash point of 450F and TBN of 11 and formulated for high rpm engines - what's not to like?

My second choice would be Mobil 1 10W30 High Mileage oil. By the way, I own a Robin 2 cycle Snapper mower that I categorize the engine as being "commercial grade" quality. Maybe better than Honda or Kawasaki.

 

[btanchors]

I'm using Amsoil MCT in most of my small 4-cycle engines, ranging from 3.8 to 18 horsepower. In addition to the above stated reasons, it's a stout 10W-30, with extra zinc and phosphorus anti-wear additives. Plus, it has extra rust inhibitors to limit rust during long periods of non-use.

 

[edhackett]

I have the 3200 version of this generator. They are inverter type, so don't run wide open all the time. They will only run as fast as necessary to produce the required load, if set in that mode.

That said, a 10W-30 HDEO would be the minimum that I would use. I run the Amsoil MCF 10W-40 in mine. It can see temperatures of over 90F and I wanted extra corrosion protection because it may not get run but once or twice a year.

Also go ahead and do a first oil change at 5 hours, then the 20.

Ed

 

[RF Overlord]

Originally Posted By: edhackett
I have the 3200 version of this generator. They are inverter type, so don't run wide open all the time. They will only run as fast as necessary to produce the required load, if set in that mode.
Exactly, and therein lies one of the reasons for my asking whether I can use a synth 5W-30.

So far I'm hearing to use only 10W-xx...last week it got down to 8°F overnight. I'm concerned that 10W-xx would be a little thick for reliable starting and immediate running at load.

 

[RF Overlord]

Okay, I suppose I should have asked the manufacturer first, but I didn't expect a timely or valid answer other than telling me to read the manual (which I already have).

Well, I was wrong. I sent an email to Robin America's tech line and received an answer within 10 minutes! Their tech told me that 5W-30 was OK to use, but recommended I use 10W-30 synthetic, after the initial break-in. I was leaning that way anyway, but I feel better now that the manufacturer has confirmed it.

Thanks to all who responded...

 

[edhackett]

I don't think you necessarily need to stay with a 10W-XX. I wouldn't use a standard SM/GF4-5 PCMO. Those are optimized for fuel efficiency and to insure the manufacturer never has to pay out on a catalytic converter warranty. I'm not comfortable with those oils in any engine I own, be it my 1917 Fairbanks-Morse or my 2008 turbo Subaru.

Look at oils that carry or meet ACEA A3/B3-B4 or CJ4 specifications. GC(Syntec 0W-30), Mobil 1 0W-40, Rotella T6 5W-40, or Amsoil 5W-30 HDD are four that come to mind. Any of these or similar oils will provide better engine protection than a GF-X PCMO.

Pick your oil based on continuous use at full output. Don't skimp because it probably won't get worked that hard.

Ed

 

[RF Overlord]

Ed, I understand what you're saying, but I also asked the Subaru Robin tech about the manual's statement:

“Use 4-stroke automotive detergent oil of API service class SE or higher grade (SG, SH or SJ is recommended).”

His reply was: "As far as the grade of oil goes, any automobile grade oil or better can be used."

Perhaps, since this is a brand new unit, having tons of ZDDP is not as critical as in previous generations of OPE...

 

[edhackett]

OPE recommendations are typically tempered by what the average Joe can pick up at the grocery store.

PCMO will probably do fine. Notice he said "or better". Better is better if push comes to shove(you have to run an AC unit for days).

I always go for the better.

An OTC oil that would meet Subaru's 10W-30 recommendation and meets my "use a bit better than recommended" is Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30.

Ed

 

[Panzerman]

Remmember when you worry about running this engine in cold weather or oil at start up, this is no car engine and is the simplest of designs. There is no oil pump, it consists of oil simply getting sloshed around. I think that engine would be very forgiving of whatever is put in it. Its not under the same classifications as you would choose a oil for your car.

 

[RF Overlord]

I think Panzerman has it right...we BITOGers tend to overthink this stuff.

Anyway, I stood in the oil aisle at Wally's last night and stared at all the jugs, cursing my addiction. After comparing and re-comparing PP, SuperTech synth, Delo, spinning anti-clockwise while standing on one foot...arrrgh...I finally settled on Rotella T5 10W-30. I'm free at last!

Thanks to all who offered advice...my friends think I'm strange, but you all understand what it's like.

 

[edhackett]

A most excellent choice. I've got one more change of MCF 10W-40 on hand, which will likely last until I move to a cooler climate. I'll be using T5 at that point. I already use it in my car, truck, snow blower, and lawn mower.

Ed