Mobil 5W30 TS 1996 Impala SS LT1

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Cordelia, CA
1996 Chevrolet Impala SS Total miles 54000
miles on oil 4107 (80% Houston summer city traffic)
Change oil light on 21 miles earlier

Mobil 1 5W30 TriSyn (SJ/SL unknown)

Schaeffer's Analysis
code:

Copper 4

Iron 17

Chromium 1

Aluminum 4

Lead 16

Moly 91

Phosphorus 1046

Zinc 1143

Magneseum 83

Calcium 3552

AntiFreeze .0

Fuel Dilut N

H20 .0

Silicon 22 (High, possible air filter problem.)

Vis Cst 9.97 (Starts at 10.0)

SAE ISO 30W

Sulphur 33%

Oxidation 14%

Nitration 17%



All numbers look great except for the Silicon.

The vehicle is equipped with a K&N replacement filter. I will check the filter for any problems, and if none exist, I will replace with OEM.

I, "Drive it like I stole it."

[ August 26, 2002, 10:02 AM: Message edited by: VaderSS ]
 
I think you had the "SL" formulation because of the Ca based detergency (SJ was primarily Mg). And the SL's seemed to have some moly, as we are now seeing on SS as well.
Looks like the change oil light is rather conservative, at least if you are going to use a high-end oil. But I guess it has to be when GM is going to make silly recomendations like 5w-30 dino.
I don't think it's coincendece that the Si is high. Will be interesting.
One other question. I bet your LT1 has the oil cooler, right?

edit: Also, was there any make-up oil added?

[ August 26, 2002, 10:14 AM: Message edited by: Jason Troxell ]
 
No make up oil.

Consuption was about a half pint.

Engine has an in-tank oil cooler.

Mobil 1 M201 oil filter.
 
Good results! I had been waiting for your results since this is the oil that's in my wife's car. It's good to see that the 5w30 is holding it's viscosity here, after a few other reports I have seen where it had thinned out a lot. The oxidation and nitration numbers are excellent!! It's too bad there is no TBN, however for the $8 analysis this does contain a lot more info than Blackstone generates at double that price. Mobil 1 generally has a strong TBN at 4k anyways, I'd be more concerned with having that number on a much longer drain interval.

I also see that just like my LT1, your LT1 puts out a bit more iron and lead into the oil. I'm hoping my iron and lead come down on my upcoming sample now that I've used Auto-rx, and hopefully come down even further on the one after that when I start with the Schaeffers.

I'm very surprised to see the moly in that TriSynth! It seems more and more oil companies are realizing that moly is an excellent additive. I still wonder what is the right amount to have in there though? I see some virgin analysis with 50-100ppm of moly, is this really enough? On the flip side, when we see Redline with it's 500 to 600ppm, is that way too much?

I wonder where the sulfur is coming from? In Canada our fuel has a lot of it, which is why my sample was a bit high (54ppm on a 2300 mile interval)

I can't wait to see your 0w40 sample as a comparison, how long do you figure it'll take you to get that interval done with?
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Get off the computer and do some driving!
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Probably be about 6 weeks on the next OC light. I'll pull a sample with the pump and send it in then. Gotta make sure that filter is doing it's job though. I want to see how far that 0W40 will go, and I'd hate to see SI contamination limit it...

I'll probably have 1500 miles on the oil by the end of the week(3 weeks driving), believe me, I drive.
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I'm not sure on the sulphur, maybe the station I use has some diesel contamination(It's a truck stop.)

[ August 26, 2002, 10:48 AM: Message edited by: VaderSS ]
 
After checking the air filter, I found that there was a spot where the oil was a bit thin, and that the sealing grease appears to have been wiped off during one of the oil changes. So much for the big "stop sign" on the air box.
 
I had the intake manifold gasket replaced about 8000 miles ago. Silicone was probably used. Would this affect things?

The oil was changed right after the gasket change and once more before this interval.
 
Personally, I don't feel the 22 ppm of silicon is high especially in light of the relatively low wear numbers. Dirt causes wear and your wear numbers are good.

I will bet that (no matter what you do to that air filter, even switch it out with something else and assuming you use the same oil same mileage) you will not see any difference in silicon count. Unless your little repair job had some influence.
 
I've decided to throw an OEM filter in just to make sure. If the silicon number does not drop appreciably, then I'll know it was the repair job, or it's just the nature of the beaSSt... I have 1500 miles on the oil with this filter, so even if it is the filter, I'll still have a higher number than normal.

I guess I'll change gas stations and see if that has any effect on the sulfur. If it's very low, then I'll know it was a fluke, if it's 10-15%, then I'll know the gas station is to blame.

I think this analysis is a classic example of why you should get an analysis every now and then.

If I had not done this, I would not have noted the high sulfur concentrations, nor the high silicon concentrations.

I also would not have been able to give a good recommendation of this oil for this application.

Many people(including myself) have been quick to dismiss 5W30 oils out of hand, but in this particular application, it did very well, and would probably be perfectly adequate for the recommended 7500 max interval and beyond, even under "severe conditions."

[ August 26, 2002, 05:45 PM: Message edited by: VaderSS ]
 
VaderSS, numbers look good but that silicon is cause for minor? concern
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. I would have thought an intake airbox leak but I see you are using the K&N and so I retracted that thought and that also you installed a silicon gasket. I would think about getting an amsoil 2-stage/foam air filter if you're overly concerned like me. I'm curious to see what GeorgeCLS has to say about the si level. I didnt realize you use the M1-201 filter for your V8, that's what I use for my I6.

*Doh! My mistake I use the M1-204 which is also specified for DaimerChrysler V8's not your SS.*
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[ August 26, 2002, 10:51 PM: Message edited by: Dipstick ]
 
Vader, you are correct, I for one dismiss 5w30 a lot, but after seeing this result I may have to rethink my thoughts on that one. It won't cause me to switch from my 10w30 though, I still think that offers more protection for longer intervals.
 
I'll stick with the 0W40 in all likelyhood, but at least for those who want to use 5W30, I can say it did well for me. I also have the peace of mind, knowing that this oil probably still had plenty of life left in it, when I was running it to 7500 miles.
 
At least out to 8k, maybe 10k. We'll have to see how the analysis goes. I bought an oil change pump so I can take samples without changing. I intend to do analysis on this oil at each consecutive oil change light until analysis indicates it needs to be changed.

If my silicon problem is resolved and the Houston gas doesn't become a problem, I am hoping to make 3 lights or about 12k.
 
What's the engine in this Impala? I have a Buick 3.8L that I go 12,000 on, really high copper but coming down, onlyt 30,000 miles on it.
 
LT1 350 V8, same as all of them
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My buick v6 powered olds ciera would go to 11k on the SJ TS 5W30.

This engine apears very easy on it's oil, I expect the 0W40, which is designed to go long intervals, will go quite a ways, probably limited by the filter or contamination, more than anything else.
 
It's really nice to know this engine is easy on the oil, as it should be the same case with my LT1. Other than me having aluminum heads and a slightly different cam, these engines are pretty much the same. I too hope to be able to go to close to 10,000 mile intervals. Actually, I'd like to go to 15,000km intervals to make it easy, which is 9300 miles. If that turns out looking good, then I may even extend it to 20,000km (12,400 miles) although that might be pushing it a bit too far. (this will be with Schaeffers 10w30 blend for those that haven't heard me rambling on and on about this oil)
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Actually, 230F is not the normal operating temps, this is the maximum it probably sees when I'm stuck in traffic. Sorry if I made it sound like the normal temp all the time is 230F. I'm not 100% sure on this number, but I'm estimating it based on my coolant temps and what I've seen with other LT1 f-bodies that have oil temp gauges. On the highway I probably have closer to 200-210F oil temps I would imagine. I definitely would like to install an oil temp gauge in the future to be sure of what I'm getting. I'm probably not off by more than about plus or minus 5F though on my guesstimates.

I never did get an analysis done on the Mobil 1 10w30 that I ran before the Maxlife, unfortunately. I just started getting interested in doing oil analysis shortly after switching to Maxlife.

My Maxlife sample was just before doing Auto-rx as well, so the numbers should be pretty different this time around. Hopefully this next batch won't show as high oxidation and nitration numbers. I'm also hoping the lead and iron content go down a little too. This may not happen until I switch to Schaeffers though.
I'm also switching from an AC Delco oil filter to a Purolator filter at this point.

[ August 27, 2002, 01:07 PM: Message edited by: Patman ]
 
I was under the impression that sulfur had been eliminated from gasoline, but reviewing gasoline datasheets has shown me that was wrong.

My car averages 17 MPG overall or about 1500 lbs of fuel per 4000 miles, this would allow about a full pound of sulfur to pass through my engine(based on max allowable .05% by weight for RFG and .1% for conventional of which I use both) in one oil change.

Hmm, no wonder I saw 33% allowable sulfur in my oil. I did notice on some analysises that it states that sulfur is not meaningful in gasoline engines, just for comparison.

Edit: Another interesting thing is that a full 3/4 of a pound of Lead would have passed through also, based on the allowable .05% by weight. That might be where the lead is coming from...

Also, I am using the Oil Change light to eliminate some of the variables associated with testing oils in the "real world." I would normally not drain synthetic oil(or even sample it) this soon. Using the Oil Change light, should insure that the oil is equally stressed in each case.

[ August 28, 2002, 11:55 AM: Message edited by: VaderSS ]
 
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