Good fuel efficiency strategies

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I've found the biggest things that help my mileage in the Jeep are to not baby it up to speed (once warmed up, that is). What's strange is when traffic allows, and I really get on it (to the point where I'm hauling off the line compared to most people, 3k+ rpm shifts), I actually get better mileage than normal driving with 2500 rpm shifts. Part of that is from the slushy torque converter though. When I first got it, I got just over 11 mpg on an all-city tank. Then, I realized I wasn't getting on it hard enough, and picked up 1.3 mpg in the same driving for the next tank!

Coasting down to stops, and keeping it to 60 on the highway makes a huge difference too. Once up to speed and the TC is locked, this thing likes to lug down pretty low. The tranny will keep the TC locked in OD down to 36mph, which is 1050 rpm. It still accelerates from there, and will climb most hills doing 40 (1200 rpm) like that.
 
Originally Posted By: odie
We have an ECO-METER for both YARIS . Not a bad gauge at $60 each . It's amazing how idling takes a bite out of the overall average for gas mileage . www.autometer.com/ecometer/ .
Yeah, you have no idea just how evil stop lights are until you have something like that staring you in the face.
 
Get to speed quickly, and keep it. Many strategies can be gotten from that simple maxim. Heck, I got 29 mpg out of the Buick coming back from work today on a twisty 2-lane road by following that strategy.

And make sure your tires are inflated to recommended PSI, keep a reasonable speed for the road and road/traffic conditions, don't tailgate, plan 10 or more seconds ahead, etc.

Basically all the stuff you're supposed to do anyhow to increase safety happens to be great for getting good fuel economy.
 
Originally Posted By: calvin1
Originally Posted By: odie
We have an ECO-METER for both YARIS . Not a bad gauge at $60 each . It's amazing how idling takes a bite out of the overall average for gas mileage . www.autometer.com/ecometer/ .
Yeah, you have no idea just how evil stop lights are until you have something like that staring you in the face.
Especially those cold morning starts
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.
 
Speaking of tires, I forgot to mention that. I push them a bit beyond what the door plate and tire places say is "correct" (32 - 36). I run about 40 front, 38 rear (tires are rated at 44). I'll bump them to 42/40 for road trips. It definitely makes a difference.
 
Originally Posted By: rslifkin
Speaking of tires, I forgot to mention that. I push them a bit beyond what the door plate and tire places say is "correct" (32 - 36). I run about 40 front, 38 rear (tires are rated at 44). I'll bump them to 42/40 for road trips. It definitely makes a difference.


+1. In my experience it improves both handling and FE. The tires also wear better and more evenly. Depending on the tires, there may be a small trade off in a slightly stiffer feeling ride, but its outweighed by the benefits IMHO. YMMV.

-Spyder
 
My Toyotas have responded very well to "babying" up to speed. The Corolla was a 5-speed stick and I could short-shift it, and the Camry's 6-speed automatic locks the TCC under even low-to-moderate acceleration, so in 3rd gear or above, it responds well to low throttle inputs to get up to speed.

But this strategy back-fires on our Acura MDX. It will not lock the TCC until about 47 MPH in 5th gear, and babying it up to speed just wastes a lot of fuel. Giving it 1/2 throttle or more, getting up to speed, then backing off and letting it lock in, return the best economy.
 
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
My Toyotas have responded very well to "babying" up to speed. The Corolla was a 5-speed stick and I could short-shift it, and the Camry's 6-speed automatic locks the TCC under even low-to-moderate acceleration, so in 3rd gear or above, it responds well to low throttle inputs to get up to speed.
....

"babying" works well in my Aisin 6 speed Mazda too.
It won't go into 6th by itself until 42mph. I can select 6th through the manual gate and hold 35-40...whatever the speed limit is, in 6th until I come to a steep enough hill to warrant a downshift.

The only time getting up to speed quickly helps me is on stretches of road where the lights are timed. If I get to the speed limit +2 mph (
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I don't know why. +2 works the best for me regardless of which car I'm driving) I can get in my "green light groove" and catch every light on green on that road.
The exception is the photo-enforced lights. They're never timed right. I think that is a profit maximizing tool from the private camera enforcement companies. I always catch those lights going yellow.
 
- Minimizing braking by anticipating traffic lights

- Don't idle while you're waiting for someone

- Minimize useless weight. Get rid of junk in the car, and of you're obese, go on a diet. I'm serious. Think about how much gas you waste over 10 years by lugging around 125 extra pounds

- If you don't drive a lot, just fill up 1/2 the tank at a time(minimizes weight)

I don't believe in overinflating the tires because IMO that compromises safety in the name of fuel economy. The reason you get better FE is because you're reducing the size of the contact patch. It means less frictional loss but also means less traction. Most of the time it won't matter, but under extreme conditions like emergency braking, you'll need every bit of traction you can get
 
re smaller contact patch with more air, I'm not sold.

Look at the sidewall bulge...and imagine where the tread is being moved to immediately between both sides of the bulge...central contact area is being pulled up, and off the road.

You don't want a matchbox car with circular tyres, but many cars the "regular" pressure is designed for comfort, not handling.
 
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