1994 Volvo 850 NA 213k Rotella 5-40 with Seafoam

[zanzabar]

Lab: AVLube.com
miles on engine: 213,417
miles on oil: 2900
make up oil: 1/2 qt
iron: 26
chrom: 1
lead: 2
copper: 3
alum: 3
nickel: 1
titanium: 3
silicon: 12
boron: 16
sodium: 11
potassium: 3
magnesium: 595
calcium: 983
phosphorus: 1207
zinc: 1202
moly: 57
visc 100c cst: 12.65
oxidation: 16
nitration: 10.6
fuel: acceptable
glycol: negative

This analysis was from an old, tired Volvo that I resurrected with new timing belt, ignition components, filters etc, and other basic maintenance. As far as I know it has never had synthetic so I ran a short interval (2400 miles) on 1gal 5-40 Rotella T6 + 1qt 15-40 Rotella. I then added Seafoam (standard procedure 8oz through intake, 8oz in gas, 8oz in crankcase) and drove it another 500 miles with a change of the oil filter about 200 miles post-Seafoam and topup with about 1/2qt 15-40 Rotella.

I'm very happy with these numbers, surprised really because the oil looked like chocolate fudge and my typical driving is the worst possible for oil (mostly short trips around town, frequent cold starts). I'm especially impressed that there is no fuel reported, and the viscosity is still quite high. Apparently the Seafoam only thinned it out about 1.5cst (14.2 on virgin Rotella to 12.7 in this sample).

Fresh fill of same blend (Rotella T6 gallon + 1 liter 15-40 Rotella dino) is in there now and I'm going to leave it in for at least 6k miles (about a year).

 

[chubbs1]

It's not up. Can you retry?

 

[chubbs1]

That is a very respectable UOA for an older car that had suffered some neglect, I would keep up with what you are doing and with numbers like that I would say you could keep it in for the year but I would change the filter at 3K, cheap insurance for a car still cleaning up.

 

[zanzabar]

Changing the filter at 3k seems prudent, thanks Chubbs.

 

[Astro14]

I loved my old 1994 850wagon...it was just great...until a Caddy totalled it with 185K on the odo...

But I had a point: Your numbers tell a good story, so this one is worth keeping. Some things to watch for: the PCV system on these (called a "flame trap" by Volvo) was prone to plugging up. You'll know it's gone if you start really leaking oil out the rear main or other seals...It's a pain to get to, requiring removal of the intake manifold. The seafoam is likely helping you prevent this.

You're wise to include a fresh timing belt in there too...Break the belt and you'll bend the valves...

Finally, the best source for filters that I found was IPD ( www.ipdusa.com ) where you can still get 10 Mann filters for about $40...if you're going to change them often, it's a good deal on good filters.

Oh, one more thing, I was fine after the accident...it was a Volvo!

 

[scurvy]

UOA looks great - I'm sure that motor will be well happy with T6.

I had a 1995 850 5MT that I traded in on my Golf. Good car, but lawdy were parts EXPENSIVE! Astro14's dead on, you need to remove the flame trap and throw it away. IIRC the T5 engine did away with it completely. A buddy of mine in Madison WI blew his rear main seal after his flame trap gunked up... not fun.

IPD was horrendously expensive last I looked... FCPGroton was much, much cheaper. When I lived in Atlanta, I was literally half a mile from Voluparts who is also much more modestly priced.

 

[zanzabar]

Originally Posted By: scurvy
Astro14's dead on, you need to remove the flame trap and throw it away.


That's one of the first things I did when I got the car. NAs seem to be much less susceptible to the PCV clogging than the T5s though. At least mine seems to be doing fine, and I haven't done much at all to the PCV system.

I haven't found parts to be all that terrible, I did brake pads, timing belt (and all rollers - not water pump though), plugs/wires/distributor, all fluids, thermostat, stereo, shocks all around, couple suspension links, one motor mount bracket...and all that cost only about $750 (which is what I paid for the car).

Nice to hear from you again Scurvy (haven't been spending much time on TDIclub recently).