Stereo, Clock and 12V cigarette lighter shut off r

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'99 Nissan Maxima

My stereo sometimes shuts off completely by itself while driving. When this happens the clock goes out and the 12v Cigarette lighter also stops working. Sometimes these shut off for a few seconds and then come back on but sometimes it takes 15 mins for these things to come back on.

The clock memory and radio presets all stay the same and no memory is erased.

I've read on maxima forums that some people have their wipers stop working as well but I have not played with them during this time.

From what I uncovered, some wrote it can be the fuse which I'm questioning since from my knowledge a fuse either works or doesn't...correct me if I'm wrong. Others wrote it's the ignition switch and some wrote it's the accessory relay.

When this happens, I hear a relay/clicking type sound coming from the left of the speedometer area.

Where should I start?
 
any change stuck in the cig lighter? Have you checked fuses to see if any are blown?

the clicking you hear is a relay that keeps opening/closing, its probably worn to the point where it can disengage if you hit a large enough "bump". If you can isolate it, try replacing that relay.
 
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If its a Bose unit i have read in my Nissan forum that the unit can short out and usually its the speakers but maybe check the wiring on the head unit. The relay is clicking because its opening and closing, it should not.
 
I would be suspicious of the ign switch and relays. Possibly a bad ground somewhere.

If you jiggle the keys does the stuff come back on?
 
Originally Posted By: CBR.worm
I would be suspicious of the ign switch and relays. Possibly a bad ground somewhere.

If you jiggle the keys does the stuff come back on?

The vehicle is Bose stereo equipped.

If a fuse is bad, shouldn't the accessories stay off? Is there such a thing as a fuse that works half way?

I've read that if I had a bad ground, the memory presets in the radio and the car clock would reset as well.

When this happens again, I'll try jiggling the keys in the ignition, if it comes back on, the ignition is the culprit?

If the ignition is the culprit, is the relay I hear clicking when the radio, clock and cig. lighter 12v adapter shuts off and on, the reason of a bad ignition switch?
 
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It could be due to bad capacitors in the Bose amplifiers and in the radio. At the car stereo store where I used to work we did probably 3 or 4 Nissan Bose systems a week. We would remove all 4 speaker/amplifier modules and the radio and our repair tech would go through each one and replace all the bad and leaky/ruptured caps in each one. Then we would reinstall the 4 speaker modules and the radio.

We would usually start on this job first thing in the morning so the repair tech would have most of the day to get the modules fixed, then reinstall everything and usually have the car back to the customer around 3 or 4:00 that afternoon. We charged $450.00 for the entire job, including the bench time for the repair tech, but that was back in 2000. Prices nowadays may be more. Probably 90% of our Nissan Bose jobs were on Maxima's from the mid to late 90's.

We also did our fair share of GM-Delco Bose system repairs. We did those the same way, get the car into the shop first thing in the morning and have it done by sometime later in the afternoon.

The repair tech at our shop was absolutely the best I have ever seen, and I spent over 15 years in the car audio business. I would say find a good independent car audio shop and get an estimate on repairing the Bose system. Then you can weigh that against the cost of just replacing the factory Bose deck and 4 speakers with good aftermarket components. I did my fair share of those too, back in my car audio days.

If it turns out you don't have problems with the Bose units, you may need to look at the ignition switch and fuse panels in the car to find the problem.
 
Originally Posted By: Jimmy9190
It could be due to bad capacitors in the Bose amplifiers and in the radio. At the car stereo store where I used to work we did probably 3 or 4 Nissan Bose systems a week. We would remove all 4 speaker/amplifier modules and the radio and our repair tech would go through each one and replace all the bad and leaky/ruptured caps in each one. Then we would reinstall the 4 speaker modules and the radio.

We would usually start on this job first thing in the morning so the repair tech would have most of the day to get the modules fixed, then reinstall everything and usually have the car back to the customer around 3 or 4:00 that afternoon. We charged $450.00 for the entire job, including the bench time for the repair tech, but that was back in 2000. Prices nowadays may be more. Probably 90% of our Nissan Bose jobs were on Maxima's from the mid to late 90's.

We also did our fair share of GM-Delco Bose system repairs. We did those the same way, get the car into the shop first thing in the morning and have it done by sometime later in the afternoon.

The repair tech at our shop was absolutely the best I have ever seen, and I spent over 15 years in the car audio business. I would say find a good independent car audio shop and get an estimate on repairing the Bose system. Then you can weigh that against the cost of just replacing the factory Bose deck and 4 speakers with good aftermarket components. I did my fair share of those too, back in my car audio days.

If it turns out you don't have problems with the Bose units, you may need to look at the ignition switch and fuse panels in the car to find the problem.



I hope it's not the Bose stereo as that can be a pain. I have an aftermarket Kenwood head unit connected to all Bose hardware.

Surprisingly all was fine until I recently changed my alternator. Is this a coincidence?

So the Bose stereo can make the car clock, wipers and 12v cig. plug not function?
 
i had 1982 dodge 3/4 ton. the air con power went through the ign switch, the contacts would burn out. so i set up a relay running off the ign switch. no more trouble.
 
If you have an aftermarket head unit and the speakers work and sound OK, chances are the problem is not in the Bose system.

Without seeing the car it's hard to know what the problem is. Based on what you posted I would check all the fuses and the B+ battery power connections at the fuse box under the hood and at the fuse box in the car too. Maybe there is a loose connection or a corroded fuse causing the problem. It also sounds like the ignition switch could be bad. Maybe check the Haynes Book for your car, it should tell how to check the switch with a volt-ohm meter to see if it is bad. I wonder if the accessory circuit on your ignition switch is not working, or has an intermittent problem? The wipers and radio are both on the accessory side of the switch but they have separate wiring circuits from the fuse box.
 
Originally Posted By: MrCritical
I'm thinking if it's a fuse, the radio and clock loses presets.


Both the clock and radio have 2 12v lines, one that is always hot for the memory and one that is switched by the ign switch via the relay. It sounds like the constant 12v line is working or he would be loosing presets and time
 
First.......a wiggle test.

Key on, stereo on, wiggle the fuse around in the panel, reach behind the panel, wiggle the harness back there. Essentially wiggle components/harness around until you find the intermittent.

Do the components share grounds? Ditto on above that likely memory would be erased if a ground is the problem.

Test light. Hook up to + supply, when problem occurs, ground testlight in the cig socket. No light...bad ground, light= bad power(+) circuit.

In a sense it is lucky multiple components are affected as it simplifies troubleshooting when/if you get a wiring diagram.
 
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