Thanks doitmyself, we did get off track, but it all works out. Thanks for your comments, which I agree with.
Thanks roadrunner1, that's some good info regarding the recommended oils for small engines. Wonder how much difference the additive packs differ between an SL and an SJ oil. I'm sure there's a VOA somewhere.
Gokhan, and thank you also. I've been to that Wal Mart a few times and bought up the remaining Havoline black jugs of SL 10w-30 and 10w-40 a few years ago. Did not see much diesel flavors there then. Will pay them a visit soon as I have never seen a container of the diesel 10w-30 oil anywhere in So Cal.
Thanks for the mini lesson on ZDDP. You must be referring to moly and boron. Correct?
I never thought about using a synthetic 5w-30. I'm sure there are plenty of options there to choose from. But I have lots of the diesel delo/rotella left. Few years ago, well dating back ten years, there was a lot of finger pointing regarding flat cams/pitted lifters and one consensus was the oils. Just look out there today as there is a whole new market of oils and additives designed to support the older engine designs. There was no way in [censored] I was going to convince a customer to add this $5-10 bottle of additives to an oil change, much less during top off. The diesel oils were, and probably still are, a good compromise while the jury is still out on this subject. That is mildly modified engines or vintage stock. Lately, though, the education here at the "University of BITOG" has taught me about the introduction of AW additives like moly/boron to popular PCMO's such as PYB, Chevron,and Havoline.
Regarding oil shear, I never even considered it, but the fact is the air-cooled engine has higher cylinder head temps, low gearing (3000-3500rpm on freeway), cam gear clash, and small sump capacity probably lend to oil shear being an issue.
Lastly, it seems that many of the rebuilders and vendors do not recommend/encourage synthetic lubes for cam protection or even the transaxles. Time may change this, thanks all, Bill