Difference between Rotella T and Rotella T1 30wt.

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Recently built an air-cooled VW engine and used a Web Cams regrind. They stated it was ok to use Shell's Rotella 30wt oil to break in cam and lifters. I was able to locate a few gallons of the older version of this oil. The replacement oil, called T1 has lost its gasoline engine rating. Is this oil any different than previous version? I've heard that Shell's web site is vague but a lot of the muscle car web sites love the Rotella. Opinions and/or facts welcome. I am in Los Angeles and still find the older version Rotella T 30wt at Napa and Auto Zone outlets. I plan on using Web Cam products in the future so I would consider buying up remaining old stock Rotella if there is a difference between the two. Did the "SJ" rating become obsolete? The two Rotella bottles have the same MFG bar code, if that means anything. Here in So Cal Chevron's Delo 400 is readily available for the Detroit Diesel 2 strokes, but 40wt is most prevalent. Appreciate your feedback. Bill
 
Rotella T5 10w-30 has no gasoline specs either, if that matters - it's got a ton of ZDDP, though (just like that SAE30).

I don't see why you couldn't use T5 10w-30 or even T3 15w-40. Are those air-cooled engines really picky about the type of oil they're fed?
 
Delo 400 is actually a 4-stroke diesel oil-Delo 100 is the DD 2-stroke oil-T1 is also a DD 2-stroke oil/CF-2 rated. When I had air-cooled VWs they were rated for straight 30, but they were all older ('64 Bug and a '73 Type III Squareback)-I would stick with a high ZDDP oil, not sure about the CF-2 rated oils )which are lower in sulfated ash for the DD. therefore lower TBN. I would think that any modern oil would be fine in an air-cooled VW after cam break-in, but either an SL or older or a ZDDP or moly additive would be a good idea if you have to use SM or SN oil for break in.
 
JRed, Rotella 10w-30 not readily available here in So Cal. I agree the 15w-40 oil is a great oil, as I am using it right now since the cam is "broken in", but a lot of the aftermarket cam grinders still recommend a straight weight dino oil, and I wanted to keep Web Cams happy if I had an issue with their product. Air-cooled cars(VW-Porsche) probably are not that picky about the oil selection in a stock set-up but there is a lot of threads on VW-Porsche cars having devastating results when modified with aftermarket cam/lifters and heavier springs.
Bulwinkle, my bad about the Delo 400/100 differences. Currently doing push-ups. I do not think I need to worry about the TBN as my current VW bus engine has 2 oil filters(L39001 full flow and B164 by-pass) and with a sump holds 7 quarts of Rotella 15w-40 CJ4+ oil. Back in the 1970's the VW dealers used straight 30wt and the Porsche dealers used straight 40wt. The multi-grades were not readily accepted by the German dealers. And recently, Castrol came out with a memo or bulletin stating that their, very popular with the air-cooled crowd, GTX oils were not recommended for the older classic cars. I do not know if Castrol dino has moly added to boost the additive package such as Chevron/Havoline or Pennzoil. I have read quite a bit about the lack of ZDDP in the over the counter oils plus the available additives to make up the difference. It's just a little tough trying to convince VW owners they have to purchase an additional product for their crankcase! Rather just choose a decent petroleum product to keep everyone happy. Thanks again, Bill
 
Quote:
Rotella T5 10w-30 has no gasoline specs either, if that matters


That is not true. T5 carries the SM rating.

Ed
 
So, is the consensus that the two are the same oil? I'm just looking for an affordable and easily available oil for initial break in with mild air cooled VW engines. I still see the earlier version on the shelves of some Napa's and AutoZone's at about $16 per gallon. I am willing to buy a few gallons as Web Cams is ok with this oil for break in. And from what I've read on one of the air cooled forums, Web Cams will warranty their parts if their instructions are adhered to. Thanks, Bill
 
If I had to bet, I would say they are the same and shell just dropped the ratings because of cost. I'd image straight 30 isn't one of their big movers.

but, the ultimate would be a VOA of the two.
 
FWIW, I was able to purchase via special order 10W-30 Rotella dino (T3 with a SM rating), last January in Northern California; in gallon containers from O'Reilly's (formerly Kragen) and quart bottles through a local Shell service station. I think with sales tax it averaged about $4.15/quart from either source. There are date stamps on the packaging if anyone wants me to check. I was on a path to get some Delo 400 10W-30 from a distributor, but it's a 90 minute drive and was out of stock when the Rotella came in.
 
I know that the Shell Rotella Dino 10W-30 is very difficult to find. The only places that I see it in abundance is in Farm and Horse country.

However, I just picked up 4 Gallons of the Shell Rotella Dino 10W-30 in of all places....Brooklyn, NYC.

They have a sale of the Shell Rotella Dino in 10W-30 and 15W-40. This Strauss Store location has it on sale for $12.99 a gallon and if you sign up for the rewards program them give you $5 off a purchase of $25 or more. So, after the discount and the sales tax, the total for each gallon is about $11.20.

Well, I printed out and used the coupon they e-mailed me 2X and used it yesterday for 2 Gallons and again today for 2 Gallons for my stash of 4 Gallons.

This stash won't last long....I will be using 2 Gallons of the Shell Rotella Dino 10W-30, along with a mix of the regular Formula Shell Dino for 10W-30 on a couple of SUV oil changes. Both the Shell products have great add packs and I have no problem mixing Diesel with conventional Dino.

So, if there is anyone in the NYC, NJ and PA area looking for Shell Rotella Dino in 10W-30 or 15W-40 in API-SM it can be found at Strauss Stores.
 
Originally Posted By: edhackett
Quote:
Rotella T5 10w-30 has no gasoline specs either, if that matters


That is not true. T5 carries the SM rating.

Ed


+1 - Today I used 4 Gallons of Shell Rotella T Triple Protection Dino 15W-40 and 3 Gallons of Mobil Delvac Super, Dino 15W-40, all with a blend of Formula Shell Dino in 5W-20 and 5W-30. The mix for each vehicle, car and SUV was 50/50.


Both the Rotella T 15W-40 and the Mobil Delvac Super 15W-40 are rated SM for gasoline engines. I also have 6 Gallon Jugs of Shell Rotella T Triple Protection in 10W-30 in my stash that is also SM...Gasoline Engines.
 
Yes Gents, thanks for all the informative feedback. I would guess that since a petroleum company has to pay large amounts of cash to get certain approvals, it probably is not profitable to get the gasoline rating on a straight weight oil that is primarily used in the HD diesel market, ie: Detroit Diesels. So, in my opinion, as long as the cam grinder says to use a certain oil, I'm gonna go by his/her recommendations. Dont seem to see any 10w-30 diesel oil antwhere in So Cal. Oh well.
 
Geez, Bill, some of the posters here really went off topic to your original question!

I don't think we have any evidence on the make up of the new T1 30wt. vs. the old. I, too, suspect it was just a money saving move eliminating the SJ rating, but are we sure beyond just speculation? Both Kohler and Kawasaki still recommend SJ oils in their small engines.

I wrote to Shell last May because I didn't want to void the engine warranty on an expensive mower that specified 30Wt SJ. The answer was useless. He said that the T1 was suitable for gasolene use where high additive levels were wanted. BUT, then he stated that Pennzoil HD 30wt. with SM rating would also work fine. What can I say?

For peace of mind, I would buy up all the old stock. Or, use the Delo product that still has a gas rating. I base my fears on occasional "arse bites" I received not following recommendations and/or my gut. Just my opinion.
 
After reading through this thread I went and checked my current stock of turfgard (Deere lawn equipment) 10w-30 and it is SJ.

I picked it up a couple of monthe ago, and my dealer sells quite a few mowers, I'm guessing thier stock is replenished quite often.
Anyone requirering SJ spec, its available.
 
Originally Posted By: VWguy
Yes Gents, thanks for all the informative feedback. I would guess that since a petroleum company has to pay large amounts of cash to get certain approvals, it probably is not profitable to get the gasoline rating on a straight weight oil that is primarily used in the HD diesel market, ie: Detroit Diesels. So, in my opinion, as long as the cam grinder says to use a certain oil, I'm gonna go by his/her recommendations. Dont seem to see any 10w-30 diesel oil antwhere in So Cal. Oh well.

Hey VWguy,

You can get both the Delo 10W-30 and Rotella 10W-30 at Wal-Mart at Crenshaw and King (probably other LA-area Wal-Mart as wells) in 1-gallon jugs. Delo has slightly more ZDDP. Also, Delo has a lot of moly and Rotella has practically no moly at all.

If oil cooling is your main concern, why don't you use a synthetic GF-5 5W-30? You will get the best oil flow. I would probably go with a Group III 5W-30 such as Pennzoil Platinum, Mobil Super, or other cheap synthetics (Super Tech etc.) for peace of mind with your old seals. I wouldn't worry about ZDDP that much, as high levels of ZDDP are a thing of the past and even with HDEOs you don't get much ZDDP nowadays. New antiwear additives are almost as good as ZDDP. With a synthetic 5W-30, you also don't have to worry about oil shear, which might be important for your large clearances of old-engine design.
 
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Thanks doitmyself, we did get off track, but it all works out. Thanks for your comments, which I agree with.

Thanks roadrunner1, that's some good info regarding the recommended oils for small engines. Wonder how much difference the additive packs differ between an SL and an SJ oil. I'm sure there's a VOA somewhere.

Gokhan, and thank you also. I've been to that Wal Mart a few times and bought up the remaining Havoline black jugs of SL 10w-30 and 10w-40 a few years ago. Did not see much diesel flavors there then. Will pay them a visit soon as I have never seen a container of the diesel 10w-30 oil anywhere in So Cal.
Thanks for the mini lesson on ZDDP. You must be referring to moly and boron. Correct?
I never thought about using a synthetic 5w-30. I'm sure there are plenty of options there to choose from. But I have lots of the diesel delo/rotella left. Few years ago, well dating back ten years, there was a lot of finger pointing regarding flat cams/pitted lifters and one consensus was the oils. Just look out there today as there is a whole new market of oils and additives designed to support the older engine designs. There was no way in [censored] I was going to convince a customer to add this $5-10 bottle of additives to an oil change, much less during top off. The diesel oils were, and probably still are, a good compromise while the jury is still out on this subject. That is mildly modified engines or vintage stock. Lately, though, the education here at the "University of BITOG" has taught me about the introduction of AW additives like moly/boron to popular PCMO's such as PYB, Chevron,and Havoline.
Regarding oil shear, I never even considered it, but the fact is the air-cooled engine has higher cylinder head temps, low gearing (3000-3500rpm on freeway), cam gear clash, and small sump capacity probably lend to oil shear being an issue.
Lastly, it seems that many of the rebuilders and vendors do not recommend/encourage synthetic lubes for cam protection or even the transaxles. Time may change this, thanks all, Bill
 
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I was in the Crenshaw/King Wal-Mart last week and saw one bottle of Rotella T5 10W-30 left on the shelf. This Wal-Mart tends to be poorly stocked with everything in general but hopefully you can find it as well.

ZDDP is a zinc (as well as phosphor and sulfur) containing compound that is the champion of all antiwear agents. Nothing beats it but unfortunately it's a catalyst poisoner and its levels have dropped since the 1980s in order to protect the emission systems. It didn't change in the last transition from SM to SN though.

Moly and boron are friction modifiers, which increase fuel economy and horsepower. They are also supplemental antiwear agents that boost the protection of ZDDP and other antiwear agents.

I know nothing about the VW engine. If cooling is the main concern, you might want to go with 5W-30 or 10W-30 (the latter has better shear [viscosity-loss] stability since it has less viscosity-index improvers). Thinner oils flow better and cool better. If wear is the main concern, a CJ-4/SM 15W-40 or 5W-40 would be the best since they have higher high-temperature, high-shear (HTTS) viscosity (higher HTHS viscosity is especially good for reducing bearing wear) and CJ-4/SM oils have more ZDDP than SM/SN-only oils. Or simply follow the cam builder's recommendation and get the Rotella T5 10W-30 from Wal-Mart.

Synthetics usually have not that much advantage over conventional oils. In fact some of the expensive and popular synthetic oils perform worse than some of the cheapest brand-name conventional oils.
 
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