Garage workbench

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Why buy from Sears or Home Desperate, just build one. On bench, I have 6"x6" corners and in the middle. Then I have 2x6's for the top to sit on, with 2x6 cross bracing every foot. The 2x6's are sitting on a "shelf" cut into the 6x6's so that nails are only keeping the wood moving, and not actually doing any support. For the top, I have 1x3's running lengthwise with 3/4 plywood on top of that. Where my vise (in the middle) sits there is a 4x6 running across for support.

I would not put any finish or coatings on it, due to it could start on fire easier than straight wood, if a flame hits its or too many hot sparks. Plus, finishes might peel up if carb or brake cleaner is sprayed on it or even fuel oil or thinner for that matter.

My other bench is similar built except it has 4x4 corners and instead of 1x3's I used 2x6's with plywood on top.

bob
 
Originally Posted By: bigmike

For my bench, I've decided to go with sanded plywood and premium 2x4s. This will save me some work when I get to sanding and staining it later. For an extra $10 you could use birch or extra $5 SandePly hardwood, which is close to cabinet grade.


Thanks. SandePly hardwood is what I ended up using. 3/4" for the top and bottom shelves and 1/2" for the middle shelf. I also just picked up some Minwax Polyshade from HD to finish it off.
 
I finished mine today. I might do an extra top coat or 2 of spar urethane, but for the most part, it's done.

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Some of you guys put too nice a finish on a workbench.

The top of mine is three lengths of 2 x 12 boards with appropriate framing and legs underneath to make it sturdy. It's all home made, custom height (I'm tall), and has a vise mounted on it. It's bolted to the wall so it doesn't jiggle.
 
Originally Posted By: bigmike
I finished mine today. I might do an extra top coat or 2 of spar urethane, but for the most part, it's done.



That looks nicer than my kitchen table..
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I'd hate to mess that up by doing work on it.
 
This going to sound like a dumb question, but after seeing the pics of the finished table, I have to ask; what do you actually use the table for?

I just have a hard time picturing a carburetor apart on top of it. Let alone having brake clean sprayed on it or the can of carb dip spilled on it. Or mounting a good 40-60 pound vise on top and banging the stubborn bushing out or changing U-joints (just don't use heat, all that nice finish might start on fire). I won't go into the farmer uses of a work bench.......

In all seriousness, the bench looks real nice. But, with all due respect, what type of work will actually be done on it? The top isn't thick enough for a lot of weight or mounting a good vise.......

I'm NOT slamming anyone, just trying understand what other people do with their workbenches.

bob
 
I thought about commenting when I posted the picture that I'd build a workbench dependent upon what it'll be used for. I do alot of woodworking, so I don't forsee using brake cleaner or any harsh chemicals on mine very often.

This table is pretty heavy and I'm sure it could hold alot of weight. It has underbracing on the top shelf and, according to Blitz, it can handle up to 1,000 pounds. I doubt I'll ever try to prove them wrong. I wouldn't drop a 350 small block on it, though.

The finish is a bit much, but I build everything that way. It costs me an extra day of work and $15 in stain or urethane. I think that's a good trade.

My dad built a workbench around 8 feet long out of 4x4 lumber, lag bolted, etc. I'd drop a 350 on that any day of the week.

My point is, I think everyone has their own purposes.
 
bigmike,

Your bench looks great! Was this just after 3 coats of polyshades? Mine doesn't look as slick after 3 coats, but I think I'll stop there. After all, the nicer it looks, the more it'll hurt me when it gets bruised while being worked on.
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That's a great lookin' table! Nice!

I used regular stain on this project because I couldn't get the polyshade in the color I wanted. I did 2 coats, one hand rubbed, then followed with brush coat. Afterwards, I put on 1 coat of spar urethane, which is an outdoor/exterior urethane, followed by a wipe down with 0000 steel wool, then 1 more coat of spar urethane to finish. It's not as smooth as the picture makes it look, but it is a smoother finish.

I'm by no means a finish expert, but if I were to do a kitchen table (or other inside furniture), I'd sand between coats with 320 or 400 grit, followed with 0000 steel wool on each layer. That would make a really smooth, slick finish.

BTW, it's already scratch up a bit, but that's OK!
 
When doing a work bench top, if this surface is compatible with what you'll be doing with it, consider a linoleum covering on your table top. I built a work bench into my small barn outside; tied it into the 2x4s. I work on lawn mowers and other small equipment out there, so I wanted something that's compatible with liquids. I think the 'bench is on the order of 24-30" deep by about 72" long. So I got a scrap piece of linoleum floor covering and it's on top. I fixed it to the top with strips around each edge of the top. I've spilled a ton of gasoline and oil on it, and it's proven to be very resilient to any type of liquid. Any spills wipe up easily and don't soak into the wood.

The linoleum is also very sacrificial. It can get scratched or gouged, but doesn't really tear. If it does, all it takes is another piece of material, and you can cut it with a good pair of snips.
 
Originally Posted By: Loogie
http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projec...simple-50-bench


I built one similar to that in my garage. It's 4x4 posts with a 1x4 table top "frame" at the top. Then my table top is planks of 1x4. I then, later, built a separate vertical hutch with pegpoard and mounted a fluorescent tube light and power strip, so I have a power port for anything I need to plug in.

I like that Blitz kit mentioned earlier. Makes for easy table legs.
 
I got a beefy table in my garage. It's an old institutional maple hardwood butcher block, 3" x 3' x 9', custom-framed legs and bolted to the wall.
 
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Originally Posted By: Loogie
http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projec...simple-50-bench


I built one similar to that in my garage. It's 4x4 posts with a 1x4 table top "frame" at the top. Then my table top is planks of 1x4. I then, later, built a separate vertical hutch with pegpoard and mounted a fluorescent tube light and power strip, so I have a power port for anything I need to plug in.

I like that Blitz kit mentioned earlier. Makes for easy table legs.


The thing I liked about the Blitz kit was it was easy and fast to put together. It was completely built in under an hour, including cutting the wood. Really idiot proof, which is good for me.
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I just got finished building the hutch for mine and installed a light and power strip. I plan to cut the pegboard this week when I get time.

Anyone see any "pegboard kits" that are any good?
 
I have built a couple workbenches using basic 2x4 frame and leg construction. For the tops I've gone to my local full service lumber yard and have purchased slightly damaged solid core doors for $25 each. I then add a piece of tempered masonite, glued on with rubber cement. If I ever have to remove it, I can pry it off and put down a new piece. So far, I'm on 25 years on my woodworking bench with the same piece of masonite, but it is truly showing it's age.
 
I'm thinking about building the heavy duty workbench using the plans from Simpson. 2x4's, screws, some simpson hardware you can get at Home Depot and some 3/4 inch plywood. Looks simple, inexpensive, strong, and you can change the plans very easily to build any size bench you want.

Simpson strongtie plans
 
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Build your own. I did. No plans or anything. Just go to work and do it. It'll be 10x better then anything you purchase.

Built my workbench in 2004.
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Today; with a little more character, vice, etc.
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Originally Posted By: 2Fast4U
Today; with a little more character, vice, etc.

I agree. A little vice does tend to add character...
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