Cracked Rhino Ramps

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These are the 9k Ultra ramps with extenders. 6 point contact (vs 4) plus cross bracing.

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I recently bought my Rhino 12K ramps at AAP on sale + used 40% off coupon found here. I was a little leery driving the Aspen up the 8ks. I used my 8Ks for ~ 5 years with several vehicles weighing between 2600-5000lbs. They sill looked like new when I sold them on CL. I would never use a jack/stands for oil change. That's just me.
 
Originally Posted By: javacontour
I'm hoping I get the same sort of response. I noticed cracks on my last weekend and called.

They wanted photos of the ramps and photos of the date wheel.

Hopefully they will make me the same offer. If not, time to publish
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Mine were made in 2006 according to the date wheel. They should last longer than 4 years.

http://s960.photobucket.com/albums/ae86/tbright1965/Rhino Ramps/


To follow up, they e-mailed me a form, I faxed it to them and they shipped me replacement ramps. I cut up the old ones and recycled them.

The newer ones have a rubber foot on the bottom at the end where the tire approaches the ramp. We'll see how these do. Sorry I didn't update the thread 6 months ago with my results. However, I am please with the customer service I received.
 
The great part of Rhino ramps to me that no metal ramp can match is the rubber feet. Metal ramps all slid like crazy for us when trying to get up the ramps, especially with RWD vehicles.

Also, the rhino ramps are very forgiving if someone less experienced tries driving over the end because the lip at the back is tall and the weight comes off the rubber feet, allowing the ramp to then slide forward like a ski.
 
How easy it is to keep on driving and not stop at the end of the ramp? That stopper does not look tall enough!
 
I have a pair of the 12,000lb Rhino ramps which I have used for probably five years. I'm going to examine them today to make sure they are not cracked. I mostly use them for my 92 cavaliers and my 04 Monte Carlo SS.

As others have said, anything has the potential to fail. I've never felt comfortable using jackstands and getting under a vehicle. I feel more comfortable using ramps.

Wayne
 
That is good customer service! Makes me feel better about purchasing them for my son. Only considering the 12k ramps from AAP (~$42), though.

As for the metal ramps sliding, once I added the low profile extenders that became a less of an issue. Once the weight hit the extenders, it sets the metal ramps. When they did slide, they just slid forward(slick garage floor), as described regarding the rhinos. Never had an issue with driving off the end, imo that would be ignorance no matter the type ramp. That said, always good to have two people (driver/guide) involved when driving up ramps, but with care, not a necessity.
 
Jack and jackstands. If I have a tire off I'll slide it underneath, and I always leave the jack in contact with the frame with the valve tightended down good.
 
Thanks to tgferg67 for posting his wood ramps and, because of his idea, I decided to build my own. Here's a pic of one:

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They're 4 feet long, subtract 8 inches for each board above the 1st. I glued and screwed each board, then used lag bolts on the top, middle, and bottom boards.

I'm pretty certain these could hold up a house. They are heavy, but not too bad to move around. I'd guess about 30-35 pounds each.
 
Originally Posted By: bigmike


I'm pretty certain these could hold up a house. They are heavy, but not too bad to move around. I'd guess about 30-35 pounds each.


Having seen the cribbing holding up my own house when I jacked it up, I'll say those look a lot more sturdy!

Here's a suggestion for carrying them around: speaker box straps . You could mount one of these to the side of each ramp to help carry them around.
 
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Nice work Mike, are those made from 2x10's? What angle did you cut each board at?


Thanks,

2x12's

I bought (2) 2x12x10' and (1) 2x12x8' - you'll have a bit of scrap left.

Cut the 8' in half, that will be your bottom.

Then measure out and cut a piece at 40", 32", 26", 18", and a 2" block for the stops.

I cut everything at 45 degree angles. I topped them with a few coats of polyshade, in case they get wet.
 
Originally Posted By: JOD
Originally Posted By: bigmike


I'm pretty certain these could hold up a house. They are heavy, but not too bad to move around. I'd guess about 30-35 pounds each.


Having seen the cribbing holding up my own house when I jacked it up, I'll say those look a lot more sturdy!

Here's a suggestion for carrying them around: speaker box straps . You could mount one of these to the side of each ramp to help carry them around.



Not a bad idea. I might put a roller bar on the end of them. I bought some before years ago for a large case I had, but can't seem to find one online now.
 
Thanks bigmike! Would you change the design any if you were building another set? How difficult is it to get the car on them?

I have a 4x4 Jeep, I put the transfer case in 4WD low range and take my foot off the brake it goes up the Rhino ramps just by idling. I'd like to build a set like yours to get my van onto but make it more of a gradual climb than the Rhino ramps.
 
Very spiffy indeed!

Though I'd be inclined to try some sort of rubberizing (undercoating?) on the traction surfaces if I were weatherproofing the assembly for use in my climatic zone.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Thanks bigmike! Would you change the design any if you were building another set? How difficult is it to get the car on them?

I have a 4x4 Jeep, I put the transfer case in 4WD low range and take my foot off the brake it goes up the Rhino ramps just by idling. I'd like to build a set like yours to get my van onto but make it more of a gradual climb than the Rhino ramps.


I wouldn't change anything, other than maybe how much I put into them time-wise. I'm a perfectionist, so I planed and sanded everything and that, obviously, isn't needed for ramps.

I haven't put my truck on them yet. That's what I really made these for, not so much the car. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
Originally Posted By: cchase
The great part of Rhino ramps to me that no metal ramp can match is the rubber feet. Metal ramps all slid like crazy for us when trying to get up the ramps, especially with RWD vehicles.

Also, the rhino ramps are very forgiving if someone less experienced tries driving over the end because the lip at the back is tall and the weight comes off the rubber feet, allowing the ramp to then slide forward like a ski.


Yeah, I once had the metal ones to do oil changes. One time, I was having a hard time getting my wifes Lumina on them. I gave it a little too much gas and one of the ramps actually shot completely underneath the car as that side of the car slammed to the ground!! Stupid slick concrete.

Now I use jack and stands......
 
Good advice in this thread. I'm going to check my ramps and make sure to start using my jack stands from now on as a backup.
 
Be interesting to know if there was a bad batch or something with the date codes.

Glad to hear they stand behind their products and send out new ones without any hasle.

I just bought my first pair of rhino ramps this past fall and have to say I love them so far but will be checing them each time I use them. I had been using a set of metal ramps my grandpa had many years ago. My favorite part of the rhino ramps is the rubber foot that keeps them from moving while driving onto them, the metal ones used to slide all over tryine to pull a car onto them.
 
going to use my metal ramps one last time then retire them; afterwards, going to get a jack and some solid timber blocks to support the tires after that. Some railway sleepers cut short would do nicely.
 
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