Royal Purple Can Do What??

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Originally Posted By: sr17
Schaeffer also has high levels of Moly. Cheaper than RP and RL too, I believe. But for the ordinary person it seems to be hard to find.
It is a phone call away from a wonderful site sponser


I honestly have never heard of them. Are they a Oil Company? A Ma and Pa company or what? Are they PAO? Ester?
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Originally Posted By: sr17
Schaeffer also has high levels of Moly. Cheaper than RP and RL too, I believe. But for the ordinary person it seems to be hard to find.
It is a phone call away from a wonderful site sponser


I honestly have never heard of them. Are they a Oil Company? A Ma and Pa company or what? Are they PAO? Ester?


Send a PM to Salesrep, he's the Schaeffer guy
smile.gif
 
So basically the censis is that RP smoothes out the metal surfaces by using Nano Moly particules that "moly plate" the metal to create a smooth surface. So if this is the case, why does RP get such a bad rap on this board? Seems like the Moly plate affect sounds like it would be beneficial.

I am assuming that Redline would do the same thing since it has TONS of moly in it. They must have perfected the Nano technology well enough for RP and Redline to use it with good results.

Problem with Royal Purple is, well for me, the only oil from them I would buy would be the XPR series, and it runs $15 p/qt shipped to the house. To me that is just crazy. When you can buy Amsoil RD 30 for $11 on their online store, or even cheaper through a dealer, and Redline is $9.95 p/qt online.

So what gives Royal Purple??? Costs $5 more to add the color purple or what??
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Problem with Royal Purple is, well for me, the only oil from them I would buy would be the XPR series, and it runs $15 p/qt shipped to the house.


Comments like this that have always been a mystery to me. How much have you spent on, with, and into your car??? $2-4-8
a quart price diff to me is irrelevant.
 
Originally Posted By: salesrep
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Problem with Royal Purple is, well for me, the only oil from them I would buy would be the XPR series, and it runs $15 p/qt shipped to the house.


Comments like this that have always been a mystery to me. How much have you spent on, with, and into your car??? $2-4-8
a quart price diff to me is irrelevant.


I agree a few bucks is irrelevent, BUT you can buy other "Race" oils that are as good or better for LESS money, like Amsoil RD Series, or Redline. Which run about $5 per qt cheaper. To me, I want to buy smartly. Thats all. For example, the Tires on my Evo from the Factory run $330 per tire, where I can buy a similar performance tire for $200 per tire. Am I cheap in wanting to save? Or smart for looking around? Its a catch 22 that you will never win, unless you won the Lotto and Money means nothing.

I get your point, but just too many variables.
 
Last edited:
Nice little car. I have some seat time in one that is all tricked up, from what little I know the factory allows over 20 PSI stock, so you're not exactly running it super hard.

Seriously, consider the Amsoil Dominator series. Comes in 3 weights, easy to get and will really do the job.

Don't blame you a bit for shopping around a bit. Seems stupid to throw money around for nothing.
 
In my expereance with RP is the engine always used it no matter if if its a fresh motor or one with 20k I dont like it. I would see no problem using a 10/30 or 10/40 street redline in your evo as your not supper high HP and is a daily I would stick to the above. If your running E85 I would consider running the 40 wt due to the alcohol wash that gets in the oil.
Personally I run a heavy wt oil in my 1g but its not a stock motor I run a non synthetic thicker wt and change it often as im on 100% E85 and is my summmer fun car so I can get away with a thicker wt.
I would not worry about the easter in the RL harming the turbo bearings. IMO RL is a far superior oil over any RP.
 
Royal Purple doesn't advertise it as moly plating because it is not. What Royal Purple claims is that their oils have a "micro polishing effect". Under a microscope an engine run on Royal Purple has a smoother surface area than an engine run on other oils. They claim that by micro polishing, there is less friction, less possibility of metal surface breaching the thin oil film between moving parts and improves fuel mileage by decreasing drag and friction. This also decreases oil temps at the same time.
Here is an example of micro polishing from the link provided in this thread.
PDRM1875.jpg

From Royal Purple website:-
Originally Posted By: royal purple
Another property of Royal Purple’s Synerlec technology is its ability to micro-polish surfaces. Micro-polishing reduces surface imperfections on a metal surface. Under magnification, it is easy to see how these surface imperfections can cause friction. Royal Purple’s lubricants micro-polish and reduce these asperities to further reduce friction and improve combustion.
 
Right, no plating going on at all, as they don't use a solid form of Mo. Their oil lubricates very well, generating very small wear particles and the attendant smooth surfaces.

Ed
 
It doesn't make sense to me how an oil can micro polish with no wear? Anything that gets "polished" has wear. So I am confused on that. I ran RP XPR 10/40 in my car for 10K miles while using WMI and my cams don't look like those at all. So are we talking over 100K miles or what? I am not using WMI any longer, so was considering the RP XPR 5/30 instead, using M1 EP 10/30 at the moment, but $15 per qt for oil? While Amsoil RD series and Redline can be had for nearly $5 per qt cheaper? Its not a matter of cost per say, as a consumer, but product vs product is the RP worth the extra $$$?? That is the question. I don't mind ordering the stuff special order and all, but I want to make sure its worth it.

I mean if this stuff will "micro polish" my Turbo Journals then shizzle, this stuff would be the ticket for quicker spool up. I just never saw it in the Butt dyno, or when my cams were taken out and re installed with new valve springs. Looked the same as an Evo with M1 in it. So not sure what to think about this stuff.

I want to believe, but if it sounds too good to be true it usually is......Right?
 
Last edited:
From the same thread, this is a picture of the OP's friends cam using Mobil 1 5w20 at 1/2 the mileage of his own car. Sometimes pictures just don't lie and are truly worth a 1000 words.
PDRM1883.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: deven
From the same thread, this is a picture of the OP's friends cam using Mobil 1 5w20 at 1/2 the mileage of his own car. Sometimes pictures just don't lie and are truly worth a 1000 words.
PDRM1883.jpg



And that cam may actually have LESS wear on it.

Buster posted the pics for the pass/fail for the cam wear test (by the API IIRC) and the cam that was "highly polished" was actually the fail, whilst the one that looked more "grey" was the pass.
 
OP, I have probably put 200K miles on various engines with RP including my 03 EVO VIII. All have been without issue and the only noticable remark would be fuel economy increases between 10 and 18 percent on RP. My UOAs show slightly better with it than most other oils excluding NEO and RL. The EVO has been on it since new besides a couple of ventures into M1, NEO, and RL. It shears all oil to a light 30wt/heavy 20wt without exception. Im only ECU toned with, but it sees quite a bit of track time and extended cruising at 100 mph plus.
 
Right, the cams clearly showing removed metal passed and the one that shows no visible wear failed. Webmasters never mislabel technical data.

I've contacted SWRI concerning labeling of the pictures.

Ed
 
I was wrong. The pictures are labeled correctly. I need a better monitor.

Here is the reply that I received from Eric Liu:

The surface of a worn cam lobe would
generally have a much darker hue than one with very little wear. If you
look closely at the picture of the failing cam, you will notice that the
color at the edge of the cam lobe is lighter than the rest of the surface.
This is because the width of the cam lobe is wider than the rocker arm pad
in the Nissan KA24E engine; the edge of the cam lobe does not make contact
with the rocker arm pad and is thus unworn.

The wear patterns on the surface of the passing cam lobe is merely light
scuffing. It looks more severe than the actual failing cam lobe, because it
lacks color uniformity.


Ed
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top