if you think I am spouting out dated info just try mix water to lith based grease and see for yourself how it mixes with water.quote:
Originally posted by Pablo:
This implication that anything that is lithium based washes away "instantly" is old and ridiculous.
You could examine this:
http://www.amsoil.com/products/gwr.html
Or if you want an Al complex grease:
http://www.amsoil.com/products/gxc.html
But really at under $4 tube, outrageous it is
Overall grease for my joints?
- Thread starter Lola
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Not to add grease to the fire but if it's for a Tacoma grease is incredibly important. Without a good grease to use on the 1,000,000 grease fittings on the drive shaft (ok, it's only 6 but it feels like 1,000,000) you'll get the Tacoma clunk which is the most annoying thing ever!! I just got rid of my clunk and am a newly converted grease fan, I love the stuff! I used Valvoline Durablend because it was the only #2 stuff I could find, but I'm sure Schaeffers is good stuff too.
OK BOB - next week when I'm off for the holidays I'll post pictures.
1) I put a dab of Amsoil Series 2000 grease in my hand, then ran cold water on it. Didn't move, mix, etc. Then I ran super, frying hot, scalding water on my grease filled hand and still the grease wouldn't mix with the water as I squished it about. I had to quit when the water got too hot.
2) Next I put a hunk of Series 2000 grease on an aluminum strip and put the FULL hot water on FULL WFO blast directed at the hunk. Did not touch it after 5+ minutes.
Bob - this is not scientific, but I didn't call you on this earlier (2 years ago) now I am!
PS I'm sure an Al complex grease is BETTER at water washout, God nows I've messed with that nasty stuff enough. I'm not disputing this, but a properly made Li grease is not as trashy as you make it seem.
Thanks!
1) I put a dab of Amsoil Series 2000 grease in my hand, then ran cold water on it. Didn't move, mix, etc. Then I ran super, frying hot, scalding water on my grease filled hand and still the grease wouldn't mix with the water as I squished it about. I had to quit when the water got too hot.
2) Next I put a hunk of Series 2000 grease on an aluminum strip and put the FULL hot water on FULL WFO blast directed at the hunk. Did not touch it after 5+ minutes.
Bob - this is not scientific, but I didn't call you on this earlier (2 years ago) now I am!
PS I'm sure an Al complex grease is BETTER at water washout, God nows I've messed with that nasty stuff enough. I'm not disputing this, but a properly made Li grease is not as trashy as you make it seem.
Thanks!
take a table sized (about) spoon of each grease into 3 cups of boiling water,boil for 3-4 min., turn heat off and set pan,s, on a cool surface around 50 deg,F, wait for a hour and check the amount of crud, on top of water ,the answer is there , BL
the answer to WHAT is there?
3 cups of boiling water, 1 tablespoon of grease.....
I dunno - hundreds of thousands of miles with zero bearing issues with Li based grease - I think the answer is buried.
3 cups of boiling water, 1 tablespoon of grease.....
I dunno - hundreds of thousands of miles with zero bearing issues with Li based grease - I think the answer is buried.
This looks like a choice between Lithium Complex and Aluminum complex based greases.
I have done some reading on the two and it appears that the aluminum complex's only advantage is it is very tenacious with a high affinity for iron based metals.
I also read that this was not necessarily what you want in high speed bearings or ujoints.
Other than that they are similar and supposedly compatible.
I have been unable to find the high temp life of Shaeffers, RP's, Redlines greases? Anybody know that spec? The only aluminum complex grease which I could get this spec for was Amsoil's and it was 1/3 of the lithium complex's figure for Amsoils other greases.
Your truck comes with lithium complex from the factory in both moly and without for the various u-joints, double cardon joints, and slip yoke.
I have done some reading on the two and it appears that the aluminum complex's only advantage is it is very tenacious with a high affinity for iron based metals.
I also read that this was not necessarily what you want in high speed bearings or ujoints.
Other than that they are similar and supposedly compatible.
I have been unable to find the high temp life of Shaeffers, RP's, Redlines greases? Anybody know that spec? The only aluminum complex grease which I could get this spec for was Amsoil's and it was 1/3 of the lithium complex's figure for Amsoils other greases.
Your truck comes with lithium complex from the factory in both moly and without for the various u-joints, double cardon joints, and slip yoke.
wu li Dr. Five Powers of Physics -
A voice a sanity in the world of greases.
The one caveat about the Amsoil Al grease is that's a food grade grease, I don't think it's designed for use much above 400°F.
A voice a sanity in the world of greases.
The one caveat about the Amsoil Al grease is that's a food grade grease, I don't think it's designed for use much above 400°F.
The performance additives are also extemely limited being an H-1 rated grease, although I have seen a couple of food grade greases that have the NLGI GC/LB rating.
I don't think the thickener alone is the only attribute to look at when choosing a grease,although it can cotribute to how the final product behaves.
The performance can be effected by the additives,thickener,base oil used,base oil visc. manufacturing techniques, etc.
It's a total package that has to be or should be synergistic when combined.
If any one part is changed in the final product it will change how it performs,maybe not noticable in use ,but something will be effected.
I do like Schaeffer's #221 and use it in most everything on the farm, and also use some Kendall SHP.
I do agree with Pablo that Lithium complex sorta gets down played over water wash-out,,the new modern greases of this type work very well,though lithium complex tends to absorb moisture in the thickner,, Amsoil makes a excellent Lith. com.,,, also Mystic semi synthetic,Lubrication eng. has the 4622 NLGI,LC-LB grease,all including Kendall super Blue,are great Lith. greases,,,,,,,,, to add kendall,SHP is a calcuim based ,do not mix though its a really good grease around water&corrosion,, to add Swept-co and Primrose have good products,,BL
I took amsoils special formula synthethic water registant lithium complex grease that provides superior protection in wet applications and tried the water test.
I took water that I had that is about 55 degs, watered a dab of grease in the palm of my hand and presto, I had a milky grease and the longer I ran my finger through it and added water it would thin out and would not hold its tack.
Just as I said, lith grease will not hold up to water wash out. I will be water resistant as long as you don't mix them. havn't seen bearings not mix grease but I guess they must have new ones.
As one metioned, there is more to grease than tac but that is what holds the oil and additives in the grease, so take away the tak and see how long the other parts will stay. That is why we use alum complex and take 4 days to make our grease as oppose to 4 hours to make lith complex.
oh buy the way, the alum complex is under 3.00 a tube.
I took water that I had that is about 55 degs, watered a dab of grease in the palm of my hand and presto, I had a milky grease and the longer I ran my finger through it and added water it would thin out and would not hold its tack.
Just as I said, lith grease will not hold up to water wash out. I will be water resistant as long as you don't mix them. havn't seen bearings not mix grease but I guess they must have new ones.
As one metioned, there is more to grease than tac but that is what holds the oil and additives in the grease, so take away the tak and see how long the other parts will stay. That is why we use alum complex and take 4 days to make our grease as oppose to 4 hours to make lith complex.
oh buy the way, the alum complex is under 3.00 a tube.
I don't know any more now than when I started actually. I certainly didn't mean to start an argument, but, maybe it is good! Perhaps, someone can provide some form of test between the two (Lithium/Aluminum). It would certainly be time for this controversy to be given some (real world) fact or fiction statistics !
Pablo, the original question was directed at "Ams Oil GHD Heavy Duty grease". This is what was recommended to me by Ams Oil, not the series 2000 which is very expensive!
Can you guys please keep your comparisons relative to the Ams Oil GHD and the other (aluminum base) greases in approximately the same price range.
This would be fair and and keep some reality ($) in focus.
Lola
Pablo, the original question was directed at "Ams Oil GHD Heavy Duty grease". This is what was recommended to me by Ams Oil, not the series 2000 which is very expensive!
Can you guys please keep your comparisons relative to the Ams Oil GHD and the other (aluminum base) greases in approximately the same price range.
This would be fair and and keep some reality ($) in focus.
Lola
Changeling on the shooters forums, and Lola on the oil forum. Very interesting sir.
Lola - I didn't have any Amsoil (one word) GHD laying around, only the GRG, to do the water in the hand test thing.
I'll bet dollars to donuts the GHD is even better at such a test.
Yes a grease is the sum of all parts. Some real life ratings, tests and statistics would be great. The hand wash test is a bit of a joke, I will agree. In fact, my results don't even come close to what Bob claims.....
So as a baseline, use the grease rating Toyota calls for. Don't let a dollar difference scare you, and honestly most all the greases mentioned in this thread will serve you well.
I'll bet dollars to donuts the GHD is even better at such a test.
Yes a grease is the sum of all parts. Some real life ratings, tests and statistics would be great. The hand wash test is a bit of a joke, I will agree. In fact, my results don't even come close to what Bob claims.....
So as a baseline, use the grease rating Toyota calls for. Don't let a dollar difference scare you, and honestly most all the greases mentioned in this thread will serve you well.
use the lith. I don't care about what you use, I was makeing a statement about lith base and I will not get into an argument with pablo as I know for a fact what it does and will not go any farther. pablo, you need to read up on lith as you will tell that it is a soap if you read. They use to put on lables soap base but found it to be too much info and took it off except some texacos grease.
It's up to you to do what ever, and don't let price be a factor.
It's up to you to do what ever, and don't let price be a factor.
Bob, thanks for the reply, I never distrusted your advise, I was simply seeking all the wisdom I could !
By the way, you will be feeling a lot better tomorrow, LOL!
Pablo, you seem to "go with the flow", so I won't pay a lot of attention to things you say! Learn to stand by your convictions and people will respect you more.
Vette Man, there was no reason for you to go there, and reveal a part of my identity that was obviously being kept secure. I use several different names. Now I have to leave the web site because of you.
My privacy is a "Very" big deal, that you refused to accept.
Lola
By the way, you will be feeling a lot better tomorrow, LOL!
Pablo, you seem to "go with the flow", so I won't pay a lot of attention to things you say! Learn to stand by your convictions and people will respect you more.
Vette Man, there was no reason for you to go there, and reveal a part of my identity that was obviously being kept secure. I use several different names. Now I have to leave the web site because of you.
My privacy is a "Very" big deal, that you refused to accept.
Lola
Changeling on the shooters forums, and Lola on the oil forum. Very interesting sir.
I did not realize that this was private information. One thing you will learn is to represent yourself in an honest manner and you will be treated in an honest way. I don't play games on this forum.
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