Battery corrosion on new battery.

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Dec 20, 2010
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TX
Car: 2000 Camry LE @130k miles

About 3 months ago, my original battery finally died. So I went to dealership to get a new battery. Everything is fine until about a month in my car's engine will turnover, but no start. It actually takes 2-3 cranks before it actually starts up in the mornings. So I open my hood and saw battery corrosion around the battery post. I've cleaned them up with baking soda and a wire brush. Everything is fine again. A month late, the same thing. Then today, the same thing happens again. I've cleaned it again and everything is back to normal.

I've tested the battery and it's fine. So what's wrong with my battery/car? Am I cleaning my battery wrong? or Is there something I need to replace, like the battery connectors?

Thanks
 
Try checking the voltage across the posts with the engine idling and running at a few k rpm. Corrosion at the posts usually means the post seals are leaking, which could be caused by a manufacturing defect, damage from lifting/handling the battery by the posts, or elevated internal pressures and heat caused by overcharging. The battery still tests ok in the conductance or amp draw tests because not enough electrolyte has leaked to degrade performance. If charging voltage looks good, I'd chalk it up to a defect and look for a warranty replacement.
What brand/model of battery, out of curiosity?
 
I'll definitely do that over the weekend. It's TrueStart™ battery from the lovely Toyota stealership.
 
If you can't get the dealership to take the battery back, try this. Battery terminals that are not sealed properly cause acid fumes to leak through the case and cause corrosion. Noco makes a kit they carry it at Walmart P/N MC101, it costs a little under $3. It contains two felt washers that fit over the terminals,they provide a barrier against acid fumes that seep through improperly sealed batteries. The kit also contains a spray on corrosion inhibitor that protects the cable connectors. You can learn more at their website http://www.noco-usa.com/pdf/Noco-Catalog-Chemicals.pdf I had a similar situation on my 2006 Milan, the washers and inhibitor kept my terminals clean for 3 years until I sold it. Also if you don't feel comfortable disconecting your battery the felt washers can be cut.
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its a toyota. they all will do it. I have not found a way to stop it on those cars. I just clean them frequently.
 
I'd get the battery swapped. My prelude's interstate battery started doing that the last year of its life and eventually it died. I tried those battery felt things, didn't work.

My coworker who gave me a boost (late model CRV) also had same build up, I told him to get the battery swapped. He said he would do it when it died, sure enough 3 weeks later battery is dead.

If you can, get your money back and put in an Engergizer from Walmart or Kirkland from Costco.
 
Originally Posted By: Dan55
The felt washers are only part of the solution, the terminals have to be coated with the corrosion inhibitor.



Felt Washers and corrosion spray are a Shade-Tree solution. A battery that does not leak at the post will not corrode.
 
This is one of the reasons I so heavily prefer an East Penn made battery. They are not messy (barring an overtightened/damaged terminal)... Period. I've seen many JCI and Exide made batteries that start leaking from the posts or the vent caps, but never an East Penn (with one exception due to a damaged post seal because of an improperly fitted cable terminal)

It is one of my pet peeves. I despise seeing acid all over the battery, connectors and tray/under tray area. I can lead to the above mentioned problems of hard starting, but can also damage the wiring, connectors and the car's steel as well.
 
Originally Posted By: SIXSPEED
Is it one or both posts that are corroding?


Only the positive post.

Update: So I've took it back to the stealership and they're nice enough to test my battery and alternator for free. They said they're fine, it's just my connectors are old and rusted. I asked them to show me. And they're rusted and exposed at some part, it's weird I didn't notice that last time.

They can fix it for $100 for parts/labor. I said no. Drove to autozone got the part and replaced them couple hours ago. Everything is going great until I got bored and think "What the [censored], I'll go to walmart and get some felt washers, it's only $3 what can go wrong." Oh silly me.

After I've installed the washers and sprayed it, my car has very rough idle, jumping between normal 700RPM to 1000RPM every second or so. I've tried to restart my car a few times and the same thing. Recleaned everything and its the same.

So BITOG what do I do now? It still drives fine, but the rough idle scares me.
 
I had one in my Jeep that would corrode and I would clean it monthly with baking soda. Replaced it with a Wallymart battery and no more corrosion.

The battery will test good until it has leaked out a good percentage of the acid. That could take over a year.

Using a DVM measure the voltage across the battery connectors at the battery, should be 14V with engine running and no big draw items on. (Do not measure across posts).

Could the battery spray have gotten places it should not have?

Banged a electrical connector while installing the battery?
 
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when the interstate that the ford dealer put in my 06 mustang started doing that i cleaned ot twice in a cuople months, it completely died a few weeks later.
 
the computer has to relearn the idle/parameters. Let it idle for a good while and drive the car.
 
Originally Posted By: mattd
the computer has to relearn the idle/parameters. Let it idle for a good while and drive the car.


I guess so, My car droves fine now.
smile.gif

Thanks for everyones input.
 
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