I'm all out - Mobil 2T replacement

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Originally Posted By: Jeepster_nut
I've been reading that Stihl HP Ultra is really good oil.


Let's not forget that Stihl, Echo and other brand name oils are manufactured by oil refineries/blenders and mass marketed under a variety of names.

The brand name companies are not quick to reveal who makes their oil simply because the product is likely much less expensive if bought directly from the oil manufacturer.

For normal applications, there probably isn't any leading brand oil out there that will not perform more than adequately in all but the most critical conditions such as racing.

I cut a lot of firewood. Uniformed people might think that a logger uses a chainsaw to more extremes than a firewood cutter. That's more than a little misleading. In this neck of the woods, you seldom hear or see a chainsaw in a logging operation being used. It's all big machines doing the work.

Much of what you see on TV is theatrics to make logging shows interesting. Or, in the case of selective logging, chainsaws will be used. Even with selective logging, the number of cuts to a tree are few. A tree 100 feet long will not be cut more than necessary to lift it out of the bush. Maybe three or four cuts. It's a lager tree of course but the saw is also correspondingly larger as well.

Now let's look at a firewood cutter. A fifty foot tree being bucked into 16" pieces will require around 37 cuts. Now multiply that by the number of trees cut and figure out who's chainsaw is doing more work.

I've been cutting several chords of firewood annually for thirty years or more. I use Jonsereds and Echo chainsaws. My oldest saw, a Jonsereds 630 is 26 years old and still cuts wood like the day I bought it. The only thing that's been changed on the saw is bars, chains and one drive gear. I use and have used nothing but conventional API TC3 oil. Don't discount the quality of regular off the shelf brand name 2T oil. It works very well and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

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Ahhh... nothing like the smell of white birch in the stove. Only problem is that it burns up too quick for my taste. On the flip side- it seasons a lot quicker than the red oak I usually burn. So its a love hate relationship.
 
That's not white birch. It's aspen (poplar) which has even less btu's than white birch. Yellow birch is a much better firewood, but as with all other real hardwoods, (oak, maple, white ash, etc.) it's hard to come by in the north.

We burn anything as long as it's properly seasoned. Lot of heat but not nearly the btu count per chord. We compensate by cutting more wood and using bigger stoves. I can load 80 lbs. in my high efficiency zero clearance fire places and I leave most of my wood un-split. I load sticks easily 12 to 14" across for an overnight burn. In town, the wood burners are used for back up purposes. At camp however, it's all we have for heat.
 
Could have fooled me. I've never seen poplar down my way. I usually use the birch splits on mild days or to get things going, then use the oak. The soapstone stove holds the heat and reduces the wood I have to feed her lol

ok back on topic. I'll save the wood talk for hearth.com :)
 
What about Maxima 927?

I have a few quarts left of 2T also and would like to know how to replace it. Alot of people swear by the 927 but not sure how it compares to the modern crop of oils.
 
not trying to be rude, but the time i spend on the small engine section, the more i can see ppl are obscessed w spending big bucks on high tech synthetic oils and putting it in low tech small engines, to me its a BIG waste of money. As to 2 cycles, i have many all are 50:1, i run Huspvarna xp oil and have done so successfully for yrs and yrs, its inexpensive, readily available (dealers, lowes, tractor supply, etc) It produces very lil smoke, never seen oil on muffler, i own Husqvarna, Red Max, and Echo engines, they all get that oil and like it
 
I completely agree with you on racing oil for homeowner engines, I guess if some peeps want to spend the extra to get the best protection whether or not it's even necessary then to each their own.

I heard good things on the Husky oil also....i'm only using the 2T because Autozone clearenced the bottles for $2 each.

Needless to say I stocked up.

Looking at Maxima's site, they state the 927 may seperate below 35 deg. Would K2 be better over 927 when using in chainsaws in the winter?

I don't think you are being remotely rude....just good debates here IMO.
 
I dont have a definate answer to your question. And if i could get any M1 oil for $2/quart im sure id buy. Now i will address your winter/temp question this way....in my opinion in a mixed oil in gas, the oil is mixed w the gas, so the question should be more fuel related, wich is another reason i Love husky xp oil, as it has a stabilizer effect in the oil, wich to me is most important. now in an injected oil type system, then id worrie more about oil/temperature outside, i hope that made sence?
 
Yeah it did, i'm just thinking if the saw is sitting and I need it when it's very cold..currently 18 deg now, I just don't want any issues.

The seperation issue is something i'm not completely educated on.whether it's the oil by itself or after mixed with gas.
 
some will say it does separate, some say it doesnt, im one that says it doesnt, but if your wanting reassurance, shake your can b4 you fuel, shake saw if it already has mix in it. Ppl sometimes beat on me down here as i ran a sm engine dealership for yrs, they think i promote dealer stuff, oil etc, I run jd mowers personally, powered by kawasakis, i buy sae30 valvoline at a farm store when on sale $2/quart, and buy QS oil filters at menards when on sale $2/filter, for a total of a $6 oil change, now i dont see that as promoten dealers in anyway!! but as to the husky oil, i mentioned places other than dealers to buy it, and i use it because its good oil, now husky makes 2 kinds of oil one of wich is i think called low smoke, the one i use says XP on the label, as huskys hi reving saws are xp models wich require the xp oil, thus btr oi
 
Oil/fuel separation in cold temps?

My goodness. All of these years of cutting wood at -20F or colder and nobody told me about that?

How did my saws survive?
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus
Yeah....OK, but what are the clear advantages of Mobil 1 2T?


I can answer that with authority.

Piston ring wear over bridged exhaust ports has always been a big problem. As is powervalve contamination. Both issues are greatly reduced or eliminated by the use of M1 2t. In addition, piston ring sticking problems in long term, high power use are eliminated.

Say what you want about M1 2t. It was a game changing oil.

Does any of this matter in a Ryobi curved shaft trimmer? Nope. Will the engine last longer on M1 2t, yes.
 
"Will the engine last longer on M1 2t, yes."

Speculation at best.

I've got two stroke machines that are 30 years old and no where near showing that they're ready to expire anytime soon. None have seen Mobil 2T nor any other synthetic 2T oil.

Did you do long term A-B comparison and analysis on multiples of engines and competing oils to compare, record, evaluate and verify the results from the control test groups?

Can you direct us to any unbiased scientific proof to support your claims?

Until you or anyone else does, the claims of Mobil 2T oil superiority will pretty much remain just that....claims.

Just out of curiosity, why did Mobil quit making the product?
 
Originally Posted By: kcfx4
Ppl sometimes beat on me down here as i ran a sm engine dealership for yrs, they think i promote dealer stuff, oil etc,


No, nobody "beats you down" for that. If anything, they beat down retarded posts. I've seen a few.
 
As for the Maxima brand...
I used their K2 oil briefly in a Komatsu-Zenoah brush cutter engine. This engine was used on one of Go-Peds large scooters. I heavily modified the machine. I tore the engine down to add a ported cylinder and I found some nasty oily/crusty build up on top of the piston. This engine was bought new, only saw K2 at the recommended ratio, and only saw limited use before the tear down.

The 927 is a castor oil. Smells wonderful... reminds me of the Kart races when I was a boy. But using a castor oil on lawn equipment will leave you with a plugged up muffler. Castor oil leaves behind a varnish-like residue. Don't use it on anything without an expansion chamber and high performance muffler.

I wouldn't trust anything Maxima after seeing their flagship oil, K2, leave nastiness in its wake.
 
I've been using Aeroshell's new Sport Plus 2 in all my 2-cycle stuff. Too bad I have limited experience with it, so I can't say much about it. Just started using it near the end of the season.

But I can say that it smells exactly like epoxy resin (before being mixed.) And it was developed and intended for 2 stroke light aircraft. It HAS to be good stuff. Because if is isn't, the aircraft might FALL OUT OF THE SKY! I'm sure Shell put all of their best tech into this oil. Its not cheap, but then it really isn't expensive. Try it out. I like what I've seen so far from it.

It might be the new "alternative" to the defunct Mobil oil everyone loves.
 
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Originally Posted By: boraticus
Oil/fuel separation in cold temps?

My goodness. All of these years of cutting wood at -20F or colder and nobody told me about that?

How did my saws survive?


Prolly cuz you secretly ran Mobil 1 2T
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Seriously though, I agree that just about any modern oil will keep your 2-stroker singing...just a matter of proper mix and carb settings.

I heard of others using Maxima but never experienced it...prolly better for race saws and the likes, I would likely take Stihl Ultra over it anyway since it's readily avail.

Racing 2T has not fouled a plug on me or caused any hesitation or hard starts in any equip I have it in. Granted i'm sure that' that's is true for other oils as well....just my experience.

I guess if money was not an issue, I would go for Motul 800, Repsol 2T, or Castrol TTS when my Racing 2T is gone. I used Repsol in my streetbike so I guess i'm partial, I guess it all boils down to if you take an average priced "non-racing" oil and compare it to say Repsol 2T...the price difference is negligable IMO, at least for the quantity I use it in.
 
It's all a matter of value.

You may pay three to ten times the price compared to a very good off the shelf two cycle oil. There is NO way you will even get anywhere near that many times the protection. You'd be lucky to any additional protection at all in normal equipment under normal use.

People can spend what they want. It's all a matter of choice. However, when posters make unsubstantiated claims of a product being "head and shoulders" above everything else, it should be challenged. Show us the proof.

I'll venture to say that we will not be seeing the proof any time soon, if ever at all.
 
The AeroShell Sport Plus 2 is a tweaked version of the Pennzoil 2-cycle oil for air cooled engines. Cost more because it says Aero on the bottle.

Last I heard the Husky 2-cycle oil was a blend and was being made by CITGO.

All of the Stihl oils (regular, blend, and synthetic) are packaged/bottled in Shreveport, LA by an independent bottler and the oil is formulated/blended by Castrol (BP).

I know it's not a chainsaw and run at low rpm's compared to a chainsaw, but my 44-year old Lawn Boy runs on regular Lawn Boy 2-cycle oil, which as for as I know is still being made by CITGO.
 
Originally Posted By: Johnny
The AeroShell Sport Plus 2 is a tweaked version of the Pennzoil 2-cycle oil for air cooled engines. Cost more because it says Aero on the bottle.

Last I heard the Husky 2-cycle oil was a blend and was being made by CITGO.

All of the Stihl oils (regular, blend, and synthetic) are packaged/bottled in Shreveport, LA by an independent bottler and the oil is formulated/blended by Castrol (BP).


44 miraculous years on regular two cycle oil?

Can't be. That kind of engine life is only possible with synthetic oil! Or so goes the misinformation and hype.

I'd be willing to bet that most people advocating the use of high cost synthetic oils are probably not as old as your lawnmower!



I know it's not a chainsaw and run at low rpm's compared to a chainsaw, but my 44-year old Lawn Boy runs on regular Lawn Boy 2-cycle oil, which as for as I know is still being made by CITGO.



44 miraculous years on regular two cycle oil?

Can't be. That kind of engine life is only possible with synthetic oil! Or so goes the misinformation and hype.

I'd be willing to bet that most people advocating the use of high cost synthetic oils are probably not as old as your lawnmower!
 
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