I have a small Kubota that calls for Moly based grease every 10 hrs. Lots of zerk fittings on this thing. The only Moly based grease I've found is black and very sticky and makes a general mess! Anything that could help extend re-grease times and keep things a little cleaner and peovide good lubrication?
What's a good grease for a backhoe?
- Thread starter PaJohn
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PaJohn,
A good grease is designed to be sticky, nasty, looks kinda dirty and stays where it's put. I'd recommend the schaeffers grease 221 #2.
What you want is a way to extend grease times so by using an aluminum complex grease with moly, you'll find it to stay in longer as it will not wash out due to rain and moisture. Most moly greases are a lithium complex which is a soap type of complex and will absorb water in to the mix and of course this is not what you want sitting on your bucket pins.
If the color is a really big issue, they do produce a red aluminum complex moly grease by using a dye but I really don't recommend it.
Contact Tim on his toll free # for more info.
1-800-737-1747
A good grease is designed to be sticky, nasty, looks kinda dirty and stays where it's put. I'd recommend the schaeffers grease 221 #2.
What you want is a way to extend grease times so by using an aluminum complex grease with moly, you'll find it to stay in longer as it will not wash out due to rain and moisture. Most moly greases are a lithium complex which is a soap type of complex and will absorb water in to the mix and of course this is not what you want sitting on your bucket pins.
If the color is a really big issue, they do produce a red aluminum complex moly grease by using a dye but I really don't recommend it.
Contact Tim on his toll free # for more info.
1-800-737-1747
A stellar grease for your application would be a product made by Chevron called Ulti-Plex Grease EP. It does not contain Moly (molybdenum disulfide) but will offer excellent performance in your application. It is quite tacky and purple to boot.
PaJohn
Go with the Schaeffer's Bob knows grease.
He started me using Schaeffer's last year and my re-grease time on PTO u-joints and FEL rotational points has doubled.
The Schaeffer's aluminum complex stays where you put it. My lithium complex seemed to squeeze out of the pressure points and spin out of the u-joints very easily in comparison.
Call Tim buy a tube and let us know how it worked for you.
Go with the Schaeffer's Bob knows grease.
He started me using Schaeffer's last year and my re-grease time on PTO u-joints and FEL rotational points has doubled.
The Schaeffer's aluminum complex stays where you put it. My lithium complex seemed to squeeze out of the pressure points and spin out of the u-joints very easily in comparison.
Call Tim buy a tube and let us know how it worked for you.
PaJohn
Bob is a tremendously nice fellow and I definitely respect his expertise and experience. I continue to learn from him and the web site he created. For your reference, I too know a bit about grease and speak from experience as well. You can E-mail me if you'd ever like to discuss further details. Let's keep those questions coming. This is a great site!
Bob is a tremendously nice fellow and I definitely respect his expertise and experience. I continue to learn from him and the web site he created. For your reference, I too know a bit about grease and speak from experience as well. You can E-mail me if you'd ever like to discuss further details. Let's keep those questions coming. This is a great site!
I gave Chevron Ulti-Plex grease the simple water test just this morning. Put a dab of grease in the palm of one hand, put some water into it, and stir with your finger. The Ulti-Plex turned milky quickly from emulsifying with the water, and it also lost it's stickiness.
Try this with the less-than-$3 grease Bob is referring to...not only will it not emulsify and not lose it's tackiness with water, it's even hard to get off your hand with GoJo.
Delvac...probably good but not as good as Schaeffer 221. Royal Purple, also probably good, likely not as good as 221, but pricier. The main benefit of synthetic grease for most of us is only their operation in very cold weather. If that's the case, you can not beat Schaeffer's synthetic blend grease #274 for performance, and probably about $3 a tube from Tim Mills.
Ken
[ June 12, 2003, 03:10 PM: Message edited by: Ken2 ]
Try this with the less-than-$3 grease Bob is referring to...not only will it not emulsify and not lose it's tackiness with water, it's even hard to get off your hand with GoJo.
Delvac...probably good but not as good as Schaeffer 221. Royal Purple, also probably good, likely not as good as 221, but pricier. The main benefit of synthetic grease for most of us is only their operation in very cold weather. If that's the case, you can not beat Schaeffer's synthetic blend grease #274 for performance, and probably about $3 a tube from Tim Mills.
Ken
[ June 12, 2003, 03:10 PM: Message edited by: Ken2 ]
Ken2
That Chevron grease is a great hand cleaner. It will clean the Schaeffer's right off your hand. Now you have a use for your left over lithium grease.
That Chevron grease is a great hand cleaner. It will clean the Schaeffer's right off your hand. Now you have a use for your left over lithium grease.
I appreciate the humor but I prefer to defer to real world experience (which coincidentally does not correlate with the "simple water test"). My comments above stand.
Actually, I commonly use lithium complex greases as a modified hand cleaner, particularly when I'm trying to get off the schaeffers grease after the water test. This isn't so much a humor issue as it is quite true. Ask just about any mechanic that has packed bearings with their hand and lithium complex greases and when they wipe off their hand, they have a really clean hand. That to me is a Real world experience wouldn't you agree?
There's nothing saying that lithium greases don't work and on the contrary, they do well but... water is one of the biggest problems with grease as many think greases are waterproof when in fact many will absorb the water when mixed and keep the moisture trapped in and when in a bearing it can cause pitting and corrosion. This is more common than you'd imagine of course not saying you haven't seen this being in the lubricant business, but it's something many like to think isn't a big deal and normal as wheel bearings and drive shafts don't go into water, which in real life situations, they do many times in road puddles and such.
Another really big problem with some of these complexes is the "reversibility". Many will not re absorb the oil after it has dispersed the oil under use and then causes a separation of the complex and the oils. Again real life.. pull the little cap off the hub on the front wheels where the nut holds the wheel on, ever notice the wax like substance in that cap where the complex has separated and spun out to the outer little cap?
These are just a couple little samples to the many aspects of some greases weaknesses that are many times overlooked as normal when in fact can be over come by a well designed grease.
OK...OK...I bow to the master
But if you've ever really seen and touched Ulti-Plex, I can guarantee that you wouldn't want to be cleaning your hands with it!
But if you've ever really seen and touched Ulti-Plex, I can guarantee that you wouldn't want to be cleaning your hands with it!
There are others with a 100# rating,and YES, that is a great rating, however it depends on the application, speed and so on. Just like with an engine oil, a grease has several things that make it work, and application, moisture, etc. all play a role.
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