Just a general question here. I would like to service my bearings on my boat trailer (tandem axles). What is the best way of cleaning out the old grease and repacking the bearings? Suggestions anyone? Lots of Berrymans?
Repacking Bearings Question
- Thread starter darrenc
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This article might help...
Also this or this ...
I think I like this article, though, the best.
[ April 09, 2003, 03:30 PM: Message edited by: 68redlines73 ]
Also this or this ...
I think I like this article, though, the best.
[ April 09, 2003, 03:30 PM: Message edited by: 68redlines73 ]
MolaKule
Staff member
Darren,
I pop the grease seal out and then dump the bearings, washer, torque nut, and anything else into a bucket of hydraulic oil and kerosene, 50/50. Swish the parts around and then let drain and dry on clean paper towels. Use the fluid mix on a paper or cloth towel and clean the spindle as well.
Inspect for brinelling or wear on the bearings or races. Repack with a good wheel bearing grease. Use Marine Grease if the axle gets submerged in water.
[ April 09, 2003, 03:35 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
I pop the grease seal out and then dump the bearings, washer, torque nut, and anything else into a bucket of hydraulic oil and kerosene, 50/50. Swish the parts around and then let drain and dry on clean paper towels. Use the fluid mix on a paper or cloth towel and clean the spindle as well.
Inspect for brinelling or wear on the bearings or races. Repack with a good wheel bearing grease. Use Marine Grease if the axle gets submerged in water.
[ April 09, 2003, 03:35 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
can't add anything to the above . Do you have bering buddie type things on your trailer ? if not get some after servicing the berings.
One thing to add...it's best to return each bearing part to it's original mate...sometimes mixing the inner race from one bearing into the outer race from another can cause a problem.
Always use new grease seals, and do get the bearing buddies.
Ken
Always use new grease seals, and do get the bearing buddies.
Ken
Thanks everybody. I do have the the bearing seals (like Bearing Buddies).
Molekule. Just curious, why the hydraulic oil? Kerosene does seem like a good cheap grease solvent. Also, any merit to Bob's assessment of bearing grease and water wash out?
Darren
Molekule. Just curious, why the hydraulic oil? Kerosene does seem like a good cheap grease solvent. Also, any merit to Bob's assessment of bearing grease and water wash out?
Darren
Why ask him? He lives out there in the middle of a farm land and doesn't even know what water looks like except in a hose
Let me say for the record that down here in the hot, humid, and plenty of boats and ocean, that the 221#2 alum complex will eliminate any need for those bearing buddies you have. I've got guys that have used this grease for over a year with constant in and out of the salt water and fresh water lakes up north and have not had to repak or replace and bearings as there is no water washout. Be aware, there are many so called "Marine Greases" that are lithium complex's and will absorb water and wash out.
The main problem with boat trailer bearings is that they are normally hot when then go into the water, and as some know, physics take effect and the water will cool down the bearings, and the seals are inside lip seals to keep the grease in and will allow the water to seep right by into the bearings as the bearings cool down. This is what causes the demise of most boat trailer bearings because then the complex starts to milk up,(oxydize as thin out), hold water, creates rust, pitting, and eventually no grease is left, then metal to metal contact and siezure. Pretty simple. Trust me as I tell you, you are not going to find a better grease especially for what it costs.
MolaKule
Staff member
Darrenc,
The kerosene acts as a grease solvent and the hydraulic oil acts as a preservative to keep the bearing from rusting. And yes, even though I relunctantly must admit, Bob is correct about water washout.
BobisTheOilGuy,
Yep, the only time we see water here is during the monthly bath at the fishin' hole! And that's only if we can break the ice or run the snakes out!
However, one thing we don't have to worry about is sharks!
[ April 10, 2003, 11:48 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
The kerosene acts as a grease solvent and the hydraulic oil acts as a preservative to keep the bearing from rusting. And yes, even though I relunctantly must admit, Bob is correct about water washout.
BobisTheOilGuy,
Yep, the only time we see water here is during the monthly bath at the fishin' hole! And that's only if we can break the ice or run the snakes out!
However, one thing we don't have to worry about is sharks!
[ April 10, 2003, 11:48 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
Use the 221#2 on both applications. Difference is the 238 is thicker tac and in car applications up in northern regions I recommend the 221 over the 238. Down here in florida, either one works well.
I didn't have a problem you asking mola what he thinks, Just had to gig him and you on that ome though!.
I didn't have a problem you asking mola what he thinks, Just had to gig him and you on that ome though!.
Thanks again Bob. But, Fresno is hardly a "northern climate." It's hotter than hell around here for at least 6 months of the year. Often times we will go 30 days with temps over 100 F.
We'll since I have a tube of 238, what should I do with it?
Oh yeah. The grease will be used mainly on the boat and trailer (i.e. summer use only). It might see occasional use on my Jeep's suspension points.
D
[ April 13, 2003, 07:25 PM: Message edited by: darrenc ]
We'll since I have a tube of 238, what should I do with it?
Oh yeah. The grease will be used mainly on the boat and trailer (i.e. summer use only). It might see occasional use on my Jeep's suspension points.
D
[ April 13, 2003, 07:25 PM: Message edited by: darrenc ]
no problem then, just use what you got. The 238 works well with heavy equipment such as boats and trucks in the yankee areas(north of florida
) and the 221 is just a good all round grease for everywhere. Either way will do fine in your case for all the summer equipment.
Thanks Bob / Molekule.
Bob, what is the difference between 231 and 238. I have a tube of both. My equipment will normally see hot high temp service 90 - 105 F. I tempted to try the 238 on the axle with disk brakes and the 231 on the brakeless axle. Your thoughts?
P.S. Thanks for your advise. I wasn't neccessarly doubting your knowledge, just wanted an additional informed opinion. Sorry it sounded that way.
Darren
Bob, what is the difference between 231 and 238. I have a tube of both. My equipment will normally see hot high temp service 90 - 105 F. I tempted to try the 238 on the axle with disk brakes and the 231 on the brakeless axle. Your thoughts?
P.S. Thanks for your advise. I wasn't neccessarly doubting your knowledge, just wanted an additional informed opinion. Sorry it sounded that way.
Darren
Okay. Here is a tech question then. What is the best way to remove the rear seal. I had to beat it out buy poking a wood dowel through the removed hub to pop out both the seal and the bearing. Also, how do I remove the races? Thanks again.
unless the berings are going to be replaced there is no need to remove the races,if you didn't keep the berings together as they mate to the races you need new berings as they will wear out from the miss match. the races can be pounded out use an old screw driver as punches are hardened .wear safty glasses any servic manual would work as the procedure is about the same for the style of bering.
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