Mobil 1 Grease

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I've not really researched grease much. I've
been using Mobil 1 Grease for the past 10 years
or so, and have had no problems, but I expect
that would be true of any premium grease. I am
about to repack the wheel bearing of my Impala
and am wondering if Mobil 1 is the best choice
for an OTS grease. So, how do these numbers look?

code:

Product Number 53201-0



NLGI Grade 2



Soap Type Lithium Complex

Structure Smooth; Slight Tack

Color Red

"Penetration, ASTM D "

Worked x 60 strokes 280

"Worked x 10,000 strokes " 295

"Worked x 100,000 strokes" 305

"Dropping Point, °C (°F)" 288 (550)

"Viscosity of Oil, ASTM D 445"

cSt at 40°C 220

cSt at 100°C 23.8

ISO Viscosity Grade 220

"Timken OK Load, ASTM D 2509, lb" 45

"Four-Ball Wear Test, ASTM D 2266, scar Diam, mm "

0.4

"Four-Ball EP, ASTM D 2596, Weld Load, kg"

250

"Four-Ball EP, Load Wear Index " 45

"Corrosion Prevention, ASTM D 1743 Pas" Pass

"Emcor/SKF Water Wash Test, IP 220 (modified)" 0

"Water Washout, ASTM D 1264, 79°C (175°F), wt %"

6

Advantages

Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease provides the following

advantages and benefits:

All-purpose automotive service

Operating range of -37°C (-35°F) to +232°C (+450°F)

Excellent resistance to rust and corrosion

Outstanding structural stability

Excellent wear protection under heavy loads

Good shock loading protection

Excellent resistance to water wash

Outstanding service life




[ September 20, 2002, 02:59 PM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]
 
Redline have a good grease. CV-2 or something like that. My friend Ron has tested it on his Timken and reckons it blows away any grease he's tested. It has 'red moly' in it for what that's worth?
 
I used to use the Mobil 1 grease but quit because it seemed like it would turn into a liquid form when I used it to lubricate the front end of my truck. It would be dripping from every lubrication point before 3,000 miles was up.

It also would leak out of my grease gun and leave a mess everywhere. Its probably a good product but I didn't have a good experience with it.

Wayne
 
I agree with wtd. I used to use it on my boat's engine and trailer wheel bearings, but it did hold up well, it thinned out and dripped. I don't think that it is designed for saltwater combined with the 100-110 degree days we get here during the summer. I now use the Penzzoil Marine grease with better results.
 
As for Mobil 1 as a wheel bearing grease: excellent. Very similar to the Mobil grease used for wheel bearings in 747's, 757's, etc.. Goes from 34 below zero to nearly instantaneous 160 mph and then 1000 degrees with brake application: again and again and again...
Pretty hard to beat..
George
 
GeorgeCLS,
Is the Mobil 1 grease supposed to turn into a liquid after its in use for awhile? The other chassis greases I've used don't do this.

Wayne
 
When I worked for a living in a Power Generation Facility, Unires (Exxon) was the best. It is not EP, but performed up to that standard. Now they have syn Unirex which is better. Anyway here is the link.

exxon grease

[ September 20, 2002, 03:01 PM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]
 
Al, I can appreciate your having the best results with that grease in your applications but in light of that, I wouldn't go as far as saying it is THE BEST., You know what Al, I just re read your post and took it the wrong way, as I see now you were not implying it was THE BEST. Sorry. well might as well leave this on here as it does show some interesting points about greases and how quality can effect bottom line expenses.

There is many situations especially where you have high levels of moisture, (steam, condensation units, water systems, and such) that this wouldn't hold up very well as it would start to mix and water would emulsify with the grease, changing colors, milking up and therefore, trapping water with the metal surface causing premature failure. Of course it won't do that if it is greased on a tight schedule but you and I both know, many employees have problems with doing a job as prescribed and will overlook some items. But take this one step further, if even under continued use, this bearing would last a normal life, but what if... and this is able to happen, you can get extended life out of the bearings by paying a little more for a specialized grease that is fully compatible with every type of grease in the plant (except bentone(clay base)), so there you could consolidate greases and not mix up different applications, thus reducing that problem, but also with no washout and having an EP moly type of additive, would reduce heat and friction, and with the complex that won't go anywhere, you find you're not having to pump or use as much, therefore, you're not having to use as much time re greasing as much and also find that instead of using 8 cases of grease every two months, that you're now only using maybe 10 in the whole year... Logic would suggest that if those items could(and can) appear as a result of a quality grease, it would effect your BOTTOM LINE expenses in many ways. Now this is not to mention that by using this type of EP technology, it actually reflects on power costs as it will reduce the power consumption it takes to move those bearings. In a big plant like a power plant, this power difference is a considerable savings.

Example,

We have a power company in Nevada, that saved $140,070 per year on their cooling tower gear boxes.(23 in all). Voltage and amperage tests were performed on the gear boxes and motors with the following results:

code:

Competitors Schaeffers Difference



amperage(avg) 225.6 208.7 -16.9

Voltage(avg) 471.82 468.59 -3.23

Cost est. $2763.74 $2256.24 -$507.50



Savings per year/per gear box $6,090

Saving per year/all gear boxes $140,070



This is done with power meter analyzers that can record every aspect of the power and even recognize and record harmonics which are lowered when using this type of grease. You can even see motor balance problems through the control box if the alignment is too far off as it really affects the harmonics.

So, have you ever done any kind of power/bearing life study using that grease you state is the best?

[ December 18, 2002, 08:42 AM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]
 
crushedcar.gif
I thought I was nutz
fruit.gif
before I became an Amsoil zombie
blush.gif
I used to use M1 grease and low and behold it would become a pool of liquid mess in the tube, in the application (flowed out), etc...I went back to "regular" grease.

So when I became an Amsoil schlump - I was very resitant to try their greases. But one thing I did was sponsor a Formula SAE car and they wanted some Series 2000 Grease....low and behold the stuff is fairly great. No instant liquidization - has anyone evaluated it?
 
We use Mobilith SHC220 at work in all of the electric motors (up to 12,000 shaft horsepower). These generally run at 1500RPM, and up to 85 degrres C.
We use the SHC100 in some of the higher speed stuff, and depending on bering type. It has seen 130 deegrees after a cooling system failure.

They work well, but bleed a lot.

This was explained as a good thing by the bearing manufacturer, as it is the oil in the grease that lubricates. They saw the beelding as helping keep an oil film within the bearings.

I've used the SHC on disk brake wheel bearings for years successfully.

I use moly grease in steering equipment.
 
Actually, Grease works by "bleeding". As the grease heats up and moves around, the oil bleeds from the complex, lubricating the parts. That is a good thing EXCEPT... Most grease have a weak point... Reversibility. This is where the oil that has bled out during use, will re absorb back into the complex. Alot of greases have very low reversibility and will not go back into the complex and stays out separate of the grease. Bad side to this is, if the bearing has a poor seal, the oil will leak out. Many times you'll see where the complex has separated when you pull a wheel hub and notice that there is a wax like build up. This is where the separation had occurred when used and because of the poor ability of the complex to stay put or hold on, it slings out and end's up in the little cup on the outside of the wheel.

Now add some moisture to this mix due to hitting a cool rain puddle of water while the bearing is hot, effects would be, metal surface cooling down which causes an in flow of air/moisture then mixing in with the weak grease. This scenario is really common on boat trailers, hot bearing, cold water, put into water, bearing cools, sucking in water. Use a soap base thickener such as a lithium complex and now you mix the water with the soap and it thins out the complex, retains the water, causes the bearings to rust and pit, and the complex to sling out all the more faster as it has now thinned out, then you have no grease and now the boat is sitting on the side of the road due to a no grease condition.

As for any grease, I like to see if a grease can not only resist water, especially in boat bearings but also not hold water, so I'll take a dab of grease, put into palm of my hand, put some water on it, mix it with my other hand and observe color milking and texture to see if it starts thinning out. This is a very important part of a grease and if this fails, I personally wont use it.

The water test is only one aspect of a good grease but also there is the EP side to grease as well, as well as heat range and speed a grease is designed for. You'll find that if you have seen a grease that has a milky color to it when you are putting new grease in, then it has water in this grease and 2 ways to fix this problem. Grease more frequently, because you have over extended the greases ability to "resist" water or to change to a more "water proof" grease.
 
If you are looking strictly for an automotive grease then any of the listed certified greases with nlgi would show they passed those test for that purpose. The NLGI certification does not encompass industrial/heavy equipment types of greases. It is strictly for automotive.

The Society of Automotive Engineers, the American Society for Testing and Materials and NLGI, forming a tripartite group, all played their respective roles in establishing ASTM D 4950 as a standard for automotive service greases. As a result, OEM's, suppliers and consumers have a common language to use when describing lubricating greases for automotive service.

Another point is that in these instances, a lot of companies, particularly specialized lubricant companies, do not focus on the automotive market because most of the market share is dominated by big corporate name brand heavily advertised companies so to take the time to get certified specifically for automotive is not a profitable venture, but also doesn't keep them as a viable option for automotive grease applications.
 
couldn't tell you. never seen a tube of redline grease around these parts. If it is a soap base lithium type complex, it's gonna mix with water. If an alum complex type thickener used, then most likely it's gonna be good. Then all you have to consider is price which im most cases, will be above 4.00-$12.00 a tube. ouch!.
 
I paid $8.50 per tube.

Here are the specs:

PROPERTY RED LINE CV-2 GREASE
NLGI Grade #2
Thickener Non-Soap
Fluid Type Thermally-stable synthetic
Useful Temperature Range -100°F to 500°F
Color Red (with Red Moly)
Dropping Point, °F 900+
Load Wear Index (Red), Kg 71.2
4-Ball Wear Scar Diameter (Red), 40 Kg 0.46 mm
Water Washout @ 105°F 1%
Evaporation Loss, 22 hrs @ 350°F 4%
Oil Separation, 30 hrs @ 350°F 5%
Oxidation Stability, 500 hrs @210°F, psi 12
Rust Test, ASTM D1743 Pass

[ December 18, 2002, 06:28 PM: Message edited by: metroplex ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by metroplex:
I paid $8.50 per tube.

Here are the specs:

PROPERTY RED LINE CV-2 GREASE
NLGI Grade #2
Thickener Non-Soap
Fluid Type Thermally-stable synthetic
Useful Temperature Range -100°F to 500°F
Color Red (with Red Moly)
Dropping Point, °F 900+
Load Wear Index (Red), Kg 71.2
4-Ball Wear Scar Diameter (Red), 40 Kg 0.46 mm
Water Washout @ 105°F 1%
Evaporation Loss, 22 hrs @ 350°F 4%
Oil Separation, 30 hrs @ 350°F 5%
Oxidation Stability, 500 hrs @210°F, psi 12
Rust Test, ASTM D1743 Pass


I wonder why they don't say what type of complex they are using other than non-soap.? it would be advisable to know this if you are going to do a switch over so not to cause mixing of incompatible complexes.

The cost, pretty much what I'd figured. The quality I'd suspect is excellent as is the schaeffers #229 MOLY ULTRA RED EP which the cost is under 3.00 wholesale.
 
quote:

Originally posted by VaderSS:
I've not really researched grease much. I've
been using Mobil 1 Grease for the past 10 years
or so, and have had no problems, but I expect
that would be true of any premium grease. I am
about to repack the wheel bearing of my Impala
and am wondering if Mobil 1 is the best choice
for an OTS grease. So, how do these numbers look?

code:

Product Number 53201-0



NLGI Grade 2



Soap Type Lithium Complex

Structure Smooth; Slight Tack

Color Red

"Penetration, ASTM D "

Worked x 60 strokes 280

"Worked x 10,000 strokes " 295

"Worked x 100,000 strokes" 305

"Dropping Point, °C (°F)" 288 (550)

"Viscosity of Oil, ASTM D 445"

cSt at 40°C 220

cSt at 100°C 23.8

ISO Viscosity Grade 220

"Timken OK Load, ASTM D 2509, lb" 45

"Four-Ball Wear Test, ASTM D 2266, scar Diam, mm "

0.4

"Four-Ball EP, ASTM D 2596, Weld Load, kg"

250

"Four-Ball EP, Load Wear Index " 45

"Corrosion Prevention, ASTM D 1743 Pas" Pass

"Emcor/SKF Water Wash Test, IP 220 (modified)" 0

"Water Washout, ASTM D 1264, 79°C (175°F), wt %"

6

Advantages

Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease provides the following

advantages and benefits:

All-purpose automotive service

Operating range of -37°C (-35°F) to +232°C (+450°F)

Excellent resistance to rust and corrosion

Outstanding structural stability

Excellent wear protection under heavy loads

Good shock loading protection

Excellent resistance to water wash

Outstanding service life



You might wish to consider the NLGI Certification Mark GC-LB as a starting point for your specific application. Here's a list of certified products.
 
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