1964 Corvair Turbo
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Shell Rotella T6 5W-40.
Please post pictures of this classic if you can.
Please post pictures of this classic if you can.
Just guessing that this thing would really like a 15w40 as it's an old boxer engine. Any brand 15w40 would be good; personally I like chevron delo for the thicker stuff because they have nice additives, high boron. Have fun
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Shell Rotella T6 5W-40.
Please post pictures of this classic if you can.
Sound good for the winter, but I'd be concerned about the high viscosity index of the 5w40 and the high heat of the aircooled engine might cause problems with the oil.
Other thing that came to mind, I'm wondering if for winter oil 5w30 or 10w30 would be too thin? Any good 10w40s oils?
Shell Rotella T6 5W-40.
Please post pictures of this classic if you can.
Sound good for the winter, but I'd be concerned about the high viscosity index of the 5w40 and the high heat of the aircooled engine might cause problems with the oil.
Other thing that came to mind, I'm wondering if for winter oil 5w30 or 10w30 would be too thin? Any good 10w40s oils?
I leaned to drive in a '64 Monza 4dr.
The Spyder was rare even when new.
I don't guess you'll be driving this car winters.
If it is like any Corvair I've ever seen, it will leak some oil.
If you plan this as a warm weather driver, I think a 15W-40 would work pretty well, and should cause no problems with the hydraulic lifters.
The Spyder was rare even when new.
I don't guess you'll be driving this car winters.
If it is like any Corvair I've ever seen, it will leak some oil.
If you plan this as a warm weather driver, I think a 15W-40 would work pretty well, and should cause no problems with the hydraulic lifters.
What were the factory recommendations? I'd stick to the same 100C grade (e.g. 30 or 40) and then the "W" grade would be optional, as oils have really progressed in that area since 1964. The other question would be... "Do you really expect to run this car hard? Or during the winter." Truth be told, most collector cars are garage queens most of the time,and used only in warmish weather, so a a 10W30 or 15W 40 HDEO would be a good choice. They are robust, resist oxidation should do well in a AC application and they have lots of ZDDP, which would suit that engine well.
And the 15W40 would resist leaking more than a thinner oil would-that's the biggest problem I had with Corvairs-pushrod tube leaks!
I've built many corvairs in the day
for the tube oil leaks
match up the o rings in VITON- problem solved
make sure the oil cooler is debris free
oil also cools the motor
Turbo has "floating" sleeve bearings
They "coke" up and coke is abrasive and destroys...
therefore
use a high quality synthetic multi=weight
this is not a tight clearance motor
even so a modern 0W 30 or 40 would be a good place to start
There used to be hyd cylinders that would pressurize when starting the engine then bleed down when you shut off to cool off the turbo and aftermarket oil pans
letting the motor run slowly after a hard run for a while also works
you do not want "heat soak"
If you ever change valve stem seals VITON is also the answer
The sheet metal in the engine compartment is required
64 has the swing arm rear suspension
straps to prevent tuck under (limit travel) are a good idea
Ralph Nader was wrong
enjoy
for the tube oil leaks
match up the o rings in VITON- problem solved
make sure the oil cooler is debris free
oil also cools the motor
Turbo has "floating" sleeve bearings
They "coke" up and coke is abrasive and destroys...
therefore
use a high quality synthetic multi=weight
this is not a tight clearance motor
even so a modern 0W 30 or 40 would be a good place to start
There used to be hyd cylinders that would pressurize when starting the engine then bleed down when you shut off to cool off the turbo and aftermarket oil pans
letting the motor run slowly after a hard run for a while also works
you do not want "heat soak"
If you ever change valve stem seals VITON is also the answer
The sheet metal in the engine compartment is required
64 has the swing arm rear suspension
straps to prevent tuck under (limit travel) are a good idea
Ralph Nader was wrong
enjoy
And do make sure your thermostatically controlled doors open properly at the aft of the lower sheet metal shrouds. My first car was a '65 Monza 140HP 2 door. I replaced my push rod tube o-rings and rocker arm stud o-rings and no more leaks. What memories!
I would use Delo 15w-40 or the synthetic Delo%w-40. I'm sure either one is light years ahead of what could be bought when the car was made.
Amen on the improved oils- light years ahead
use synthetic- more resistant to coking
good tip on the doors- especially in a cold climate they speed warm up
Motor is not hard on oil from a lubrication standpoint
(rocker balls most loaded) but is on heat
Built several reverse rotation with Crower's cam idea
he reversed the cam blank end for end
reverse grind distributor gears so distributor ran the same way
however thrust was now up instead of down
destroyed a set before we figured that one out.
Recall that the vacuum advance is instead a vacuum retard
make sure you have the correct vacuum "advance"
Timing and advance curve is also quite different
make sure you have a turbo distributor
Or get the advance mod kit from Isky and do your own
Has anyone done an inter-cooler?- should really help
use synthetic- more resistant to coking
good tip on the doors- especially in a cold climate they speed warm up
Motor is not hard on oil from a lubrication standpoint
(rocker balls most loaded) but is on heat
Built several reverse rotation with Crower's cam idea
he reversed the cam blank end for end
reverse grind distributor gears so distributor ran the same way
however thrust was now up instead of down
destroyed a set before we figured that one out.
Recall that the vacuum advance is instead a vacuum retard
make sure you have the correct vacuum "advance"
Timing and advance curve is also quite different
make sure you have a turbo distributor
Or get the advance mod kit from Isky and do your own
Has anyone done an inter-cooler?- should really help
Make that a pressure retard
too bad the Carter "ping eliminator" add on knock sensor is no longer available
The other high heat spot is the exhaust guides
back in the day we used bronze inserts which were knurled then reamed
Industrial hard chrome (ground after chrome plate not flashed after grinding)valve stems
sodium cooled were available
On the turbo AMC 6s we used Dodge flat head sodium cooled valves with 7/16 stems- a superpremium valve- absolutely no problems
These are the ones used on the Sherman Tank 30 cylinder (5 x 6 cyl flatheads) engines
no valve stem seals on the ex and a hole drilled through the guide for extra oil- do not try this on the street
too bad the Carter "ping eliminator" add on knock sensor is no longer available
The other high heat spot is the exhaust guides
back in the day we used bronze inserts which were knurled then reamed
Industrial hard chrome (ground after chrome plate not flashed after grinding)valve stems
sodium cooled were available
On the turbo AMC 6s we used Dodge flat head sodium cooled valves with 7/16 stems- a superpremium valve- absolutely no problems
These are the ones used on the Sherman Tank 30 cylinder (5 x 6 cyl flatheads) engines
no valve stem seals on the ex and a hole drilled through the guide for extra oil- do not try this on the street
Mr. Widman wrote some words on the subject that are probably worth reading.
Yep, Richard has a tiny bit of experience in the matter.
If the engine and turbo is not rebuilt, use Chevron 10w30 oil, if the turbo and engine are fresh, use Amsoil 10w30 oil.
Originally Posted By: 05Blazer
I am working on an all original 1964 Corvair Monza Spyder Convertible with the turbocharged engine. Can someone reccommend an appropriate oil for this vehicle. I am lost. Should I go synthetic or dino?
thanks
I didn't realize the Corvair came with a diesel engine back then.
I am working on an all original 1964 Corvair Monza Spyder Convertible with the turbocharged engine. Can someone reccommend an appropriate oil for this vehicle. I am lost. Should I go synthetic or dino?
thanks
I didn't realize the Corvair came with a diesel engine back then.
Originally Posted By: G-MAN
Originally Posted By: 05Blazer
I am working on an all original 1964 Corvair Monza Spyder Convertible with the turbocharged engine. Can someone reccommend an appropriate oil for this vehicle. I am lost. Should I go synthetic or dino?
thanks
I didn't realize the Corvair came with a diesel engine back then.
It is not a diesel, it is a turbocharged gasoline engine.
Originally Posted By: 05Blazer
I am working on an all original 1964 Corvair Monza Spyder Convertible with the turbocharged engine. Can someone reccommend an appropriate oil for this vehicle. I am lost. Should I go synthetic or dino?
thanks
I didn't realize the Corvair came with a diesel engine back then.
It is not a diesel, it is a turbocharged gasoline engine.
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: G-MAN
Originally Posted By: 05Blazer
I am working on an all original 1964 Corvair Monza Spyder Convertible with the turbocharged engine. Can someone reccommend an appropriate oil for this vehicle. I am lost. Should I go synthetic or dino?
thanks
I didn't realize the Corvair came with a diesel engine back then.
It is not a diesel, it is a turbocharged gasoline engine.
GMAN meant your on the diesel oil forum
Originally Posted By: G-MAN
Originally Posted By: 05Blazer
I am working on an all original 1964 Corvair Monza Spyder Convertible with the turbocharged engine. Can someone reccommend an appropriate oil for this vehicle. I am lost. Should I go synthetic or dino?
thanks
I didn't realize the Corvair came with a diesel engine back then.
It is not a diesel, it is a turbocharged gasoline engine.
GMAN meant your on the diesel oil forum
One of the things I like to do when the car has a turbo that is only oil cooled (in fact I do it on all of my turbo cars out of habit) is after a hard run with lots of boost when you shif back into neutral or push the clutch in instead of letting the rpms fall to idle speed I will blip the throttle 3-4 times to keep the rpms up and not starve the turbo charger bearings of oil when they are super hot from a high speed run.
A modern synthetic oil is is the way to go on turbocharged motors.
A modern synthetic oil is is the way to go on turbocharged motors.
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: G-MAN
Originally Posted By: 05Blazer
I am working on an all original 1964 Corvair Monza Spyder Convertible with the turbocharged engine. Can someone reccommend an appropriate oil for this vehicle. I am lost. Should I go synthetic or dino?
thanks
I didn't realize the Corvair came with a diesel engine back then.
It is not a diesel, it is a turbocharged gasoline engine.
Then why did he post about it in the diesel engine oil forum?
Originally Posted By: G-MAN
Originally Posted By: 05Blazer
I am working on an all original 1964 Corvair Monza Spyder Convertible with the turbocharged engine. Can someone reccommend an appropriate oil for this vehicle. I am lost. Should I go synthetic or dino?
thanks
I didn't realize the Corvair came with a diesel engine back then.
It is not a diesel, it is a turbocharged gasoline engine.
Then why did he post about it in the diesel engine oil forum?
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