Thought I'd start the UOA process early, and drain the factory fill (brand unknown) and start playing around with Motul 8100 X-cess 5W40. So here is the UOA from the factory fill oil:
Last edited:
Factory fill, 5W40, 1409 miles, 2010 VW Passat 2.0
- Thread starter sbachmeier
- Start date
- Status
I would absolutely tell you to keep the 8100. It is a very impressive oil. You could also consider the Motul Specific if you're nervous about warranty. Did your motor feel like it ran smoother or was more responsive with the 8100? When I switched to 300V it definitely revved and accelerated more smoothly.
I think factory fill is Castrol SLX Professional OE 5w30, though I have heard that Pentosin is factory fill too (depending on which factory it came from).
BTW, what is the mfg recommendation? Is it just the 505.01 or does it need 504/507?
I think factory fill is Castrol SLX Professional OE 5w30, though I have heard that Pentosin is factory fill too (depending on which factory it came from).
BTW, what is the mfg recommendation? Is it just the 505.01 or does it need 504/507?
Our Passat came from the Emden factory -- but I'm pretty sure it would have had a 5W40 factory fill (since that what is specified...502.00).
Hard to tell if it ran any smoother with the Motul though: during break-in, we were trying to flog the car a bit with the DSG always in Sport mode to hold the RPMs up longer. On the long vacation road trip, we generally left the DSG in normal Drive mode for better economy (but still went into Sport mode now and then, in the mountains and in cities, to vary the RPMs a bit more).
Hard to tell if it ran any smoother with the Motul though: during break-in, we were trying to flog the car a bit with the DSG always in Sport mode to hold the RPMs up longer. On the long vacation road trip, we generally left the DSG in normal Drive mode for better economy (but still went into Sport mode now and then, in the mountains and in cities, to vary the RPMs a bit more).
This is posted in two places. Please delete one of the threads. Here are my comments on the other thread:
Numbers look great for factory fill. Nice job IMO in changing out when you did. Looking forward to seeing the Motul numbers. If you can for the Motul UOA, please list % hwy, % city driving as this can have a big impact on the UOA results.
Numbers look great for factory fill. Nice job IMO in changing out when you did. Looking forward to seeing the Motul numbers. If you can for the Motul UOA, please list % hwy, % city driving as this can have a big impact on the UOA results.
Is this motor direct injection?
Yes, the VW/Audi 2.0 TSI/TFSI is a direct injection motor.
saaber1, good suggestion...will do! FWIW, the factory fill was pretty much 95% city driving -- maybe that's where all my molybdenum went?
saaber1, good suggestion...will do! FWIW, the factory fill was pretty much 95% city driving -- maybe that's where all my molybdenum went?
Last edited:
I'd keep an eye on fuel dilution since it's DI. There are some oils that are better at fighting this, but post up your next UOA so we can see.
And people tell me to leave the factory fill in for a full oci!!!
like i said, i'd change as soon as i got home with it, less than 10 miles if possible for the first change.
like i said, i'd change as soon as i got home with it, less than 10 miles if possible for the first change.
How high would fuel dilution get before I should think about using a different oil? On my previous car (MY2000 VW Passat 1.8T), Blackstone said that I had 2.8% fuel in my oil sample (that was at about the 100,000 mile mark).
I think I'm gonna change out my FF a little bit earlier than I'd originally planned.
The TSI motor in your car doesn't have the cam follower problems flat tappet cam designs have (like the FSI engines). Drive with confidence it should be a great car for years to come!
Bob, I agree that there was nothing really *wrong* with the factory fill oil that I drained early -- it's just that I somehow felt good about doing it, and now I know exactly what oil I have in the motor. I'm new to all this, so I call upon the Forum Wisdom to educate me: why would break-in metals *not* cause some amount of wear? I know that manufacturing processes have improved dramatically, and that the oil filter should catch most of what metals there might be in the oil...but won't there always be some amount of break-in metals floating around in the oil for a short time until either filtered or drained?
Patman
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Nick R
I think I'm gonna change out my FF a little bit earlier than I'd originally planned.
Why panic? This is a completely different engine than your Ford. We've seen a lot of other brands on here that have gone much higher on the factory fill and it didn't have that much in the way of wear metals at all. So I'd check and see if any other Focus owners have done a UOA on the FF first before worrying too much here.
I don't recommend going the absolute full interval on the FF but I think that half of that amount is fine. For instance if that car calls for a 10k OCI, then do the first oil change at 5k, do a UOA and if the wear metals were pretty high, then do the second oil change after another 5k has passed and check again. Same goes with any car with an oil life monitor, I would do the first oil change at the 50% mark, do a UOA and let that determine if I want to let the second interval go right down to 0% on the monitor.
FWIW, my last new car was more than ten years ago, long before BITOG, and all the new cars I have ever bought have had their first oil changes at 500 miles or less. I didn't have all the facts that I have now though.
I think I'm gonna change out my FF a little bit earlier than I'd originally planned.
Why panic? This is a completely different engine than your Ford. We've seen a lot of other brands on here that have gone much higher on the factory fill and it didn't have that much in the way of wear metals at all. So I'd check and see if any other Focus owners have done a UOA on the FF first before worrying too much here.
I don't recommend going the absolute full interval on the FF but I think that half of that amount is fine. For instance if that car calls for a 10k OCI, then do the first oil change at 5k, do a UOA and if the wear metals were pretty high, then do the second oil change after another 5k has passed and check again. Same goes with any car with an oil life monitor, I would do the first oil change at the 50% mark, do a UOA and let that determine if I want to let the second interval go right down to 0% on the monitor.
FWIW, my last new car was more than ten years ago, long before BITOG, and all the new cars I have ever bought have had their first oil changes at 500 miles or less. I didn't have all the facts that I have now though.
Originally Posted By: dparm
I think factory fill is Castrol SLX Professional OE 5w30, though I have heard that Pentosin is factory fill too (depending on which factory it came from).
BTW, what is the mfg recommendation? Is it just the 505.01 or does it need 504/507?
Factory Fill is most likely Castrol Syntec 5W40. This engine reqires VW502 oils and the owners manual specs 5W40, not a 30wt.
In regard to dumping the oil early, no problem.....I think it is a good idea to get the break-in metals out of the sump. This car, like other VW's calls for 10k OCI's. I made the decision to dump my FF at 5k miles....and I poured in GC.
I think factory fill is Castrol SLX Professional OE 5w30, though I have heard that Pentosin is factory fill too (depending on which factory it came from).
BTW, what is the mfg recommendation? Is it just the 505.01 or does it need 504/507?
Factory Fill is most likely Castrol Syntec 5W40. This engine reqires VW502 oils and the owners manual specs 5W40, not a 30wt.
In regard to dumping the oil early, no problem.....I think it is a good idea to get the break-in metals out of the sump. This car, like other VW's calls for 10k OCI's. I made the decision to dump my FF at 5k miles....and I poured in GC.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: BigJohn
Factory Fill is most likely Castrol Syntec 5W40.
This is a common misconception. Unless there has been a recent formula change, Syntec 5w40 always shows 700-900 ppm Mg and this oil has 10ppm.
This is exactly what Castrol wants the consumer to think. Castrol pays big money to have that Castrol name printed on the oil cap of the engine and to supply dealers. I often hear, "Well, it's the oil that came from the factory in my car, so it must be the best". They are being duped by marketing. Fuchs and other companies supply factory fill and Castrol has a marketing agreement with VAG. So if they choose Castrol based on it being the "factory fill" they are a victim of their marketing practices. It is effective. Fortunately there are outlets like BITOG where people can learn for themselves.
So how is the syntec 5w40 actually holding up in the VW 2.0 FSI (not TSI)? WIthout going into a long and drawn on stats discussion, average viscosity (kv100) loss is 21% with an average of 6000 mile OCI. Flahpoint averages 363F for the 9 UOAs we have.
That's pretty bad IM considering the ester based oils are averaging around 12% viscosity loss and flashpoint of 391F in that engine.
Factory Fill is most likely Castrol Syntec 5W40.
This is a common misconception. Unless there has been a recent formula change, Syntec 5w40 always shows 700-900 ppm Mg and this oil has 10ppm.
This is exactly what Castrol wants the consumer to think. Castrol pays big money to have that Castrol name printed on the oil cap of the engine and to supply dealers. I often hear, "Well, it's the oil that came from the factory in my car, so it must be the best". They are being duped by marketing. Fuchs and other companies supply factory fill and Castrol has a marketing agreement with VAG. So if they choose Castrol based on it being the "factory fill" they are a victim of their marketing practices. It is effective. Fortunately there are outlets like BITOG where people can learn for themselves.
So how is the syntec 5w40 actually holding up in the VW 2.0 FSI (not TSI)? WIthout going into a long and drawn on stats discussion, average viscosity (kv100) loss is 21% with an average of 6000 mile OCI. Flahpoint averages 363F for the 9 UOAs we have.
That's pretty bad IM considering the ester based oils are averaging around 12% viscosity loss and flashpoint of 391F in that engine.
I used to fun FF oil almost a full oci, but after seeing the 2.0T FF reports coming back with metals in the 100s, I decided to dump mine at 1000 miles for the additive-rich Royal Purple 15w-40.
When I saw all the metal glitter in my drain oil, I was glad I did it.
When I saw all the metal glitter in my drain oil, I was glad I did it.
- Status
Similar threads
