How bad is Dex-Cool really?

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Originally Posted By: j_mac
I've got a 2001 GMC full size truck with the 4.8L V8.

Am I in danger of the DexCool Death Fluid eating my gaskets, etc alive?

Should I Change the orange coolant out for a green fluid?


You'll be just fine. I would however, flush it out if you think it's the original coolant as it's overdue. Just replace with Dex Cool again.
 
Originally Posted By: j_mac
I've got a 2001 GMC full size truck with the 4.8L V8.

Am I in danger of the DexCool Death Fluid eating my gaskets, etc alive?

Should I Change the orange coolant out for a green fluid?


I think by this year GM had solved the compatibility issue on their gaskets. Also, the LIM gasket was an issue on the small block 350 based engines. I haven't heard of it on the newer generation LS based engines like your 4.8. They don't have coolant running through the intake manifold if I'm not mistaken.
 
Those LSx motors have a dry intake. I used to be worried about the same thing, but many members here set me straight!
 
On my 96 GMC 4.3 I had to have the cooling system power flushed at 38,000 miles. This was not covered by the extended warranty because it was "corrosion".At 147,000 the LM gaskets failed. When I took it apart the Dexcool had turned almost plastic like where it started to leak.I replaced it with a different long life coolant.
On the other hand my 2001 chevy 3.8L with 80,000 miles has not had a single problem with the stuff.
 
OK, lately i have been doing a lot of research into dex-cool issues. i must first say, that for many years i have always used, trusted, and stood behind dex-cool, but more specifically prestone "dex-cool", not the havoline dex-cool installed from the factory in gm,and some chrysler engines. i have not actually seen real hard research backing up that dex-cool is bad ans harmful from the get-go. 99% hear-say and speculation. i have, and continue to convert everything from my 86&90 toyotas, to my yamaha banshee, sno-go's, gen-1 firebirds, and all the gm-isuzu built engine cars and trucks i own....all with great, unparalleled results as far as longevity, and protection. i can also tell you, that the plastic gasket issue is not isolated to dex-cool era gaskets. i have replaced several deteriorated gaskets, basically looking identical to the ones posted in all 90's engines. the only difference with the engines running conventional coolants, is the white colored film deposit, rather than orange........the only difference.....i don't know why others have not come forward with this finding, because I'm sure it's not my own little world, that they all have come through my shop, and none others. perhaps, like i have before, everyone just chocks those up to overheating, and uses dex-cool as a scape-goat, on vehicles, which it was introduced from the factory. a prime example- my mother-in-laws' car, is a 91 buick century with a 3.1 bought new, and perfectly maintained by my (also life-long mechanic) father-in-law, and myself. it has always run on conventional coolant, and seen 4 water pumps, some thermostats, radiator hoses, radiator, etc, in a 180,000mile period, and still running like new, aside from the cooling system issues. i also bought a 95 sonoma with a blown head gasket and failing water pump, running conventional. now, i have also owned, and worked on/seen several "dex-cool era" vehicles, with 60-200k miles, and zero cooling system issues, save for 1....my 2001 tahoe ltautoride......and i know with 99% certainty why the water pump began to weep. the story is, that i bought this truck, and decided that i want to leave all maintenance to the lube center and .....trust.....them.....well, once i discovered the weeping pump, i decided to check the coolant condition my self, and boy, was i perturbed at what i found. the dex-cool had, indeed began to break-down. i went back over the service records and found, alarmingly, that the test results had randomly, but gradually, been logged as getting better over an 8 month period...[censored]??....it started at a point of borderline unacceptable, and soon due for service, to nearly new condition.......anyways, i digress.....the point of the matter- i believe the "issues" lie in the following conditions.
first- havoline lied to gm and chrystler, telling them what they wanted to hear from a marketing stand point- the coolant can actually last the average life-span of a vehicle, when, in reality, it had not been established to perform so, rather estimated. secondly, the big problem is lack of regular maintenance, and monitoring, as you should be doing with any coolant......all fluids, for that matter. sure, it may be possible to run the said life-span, in the right conditions, but you would simply be reckless not to check and make sure, at least every oil change.....
here is how i view it-
dex-cool (prestone, at least) is just about the best coolant you can use, with excellent lubrication, and the best cold-weather stability (aside from the exotic coolants, i.e. alcohol base) just like conventionals, it does break-down with use and heat. however, just as conventional will convert ph and eat away at your coolant system, so will dex-cool elc...adversely to this effect, the same as it is more effective than conventional, so is it more damaging when broke-down. i think that, years ago, gm could have saved tons of headache for both them, and consumers, simply by changing the stickers, and updating the owners manuals to follow my guidelines....

my advise, as it has been for years......
flush and fill (not just change) your dex-cool with prestone dex-cool and have it checked every oil change, and full tested yearly. change the coolant every 3 years, 4 at the most. even sooner if it shows signs of break-down.

well that's my long and short of it for now......thanx for reading

-Heath H-
 
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I believe that part of the problem is that people don't change coolant out fast enough or often enough. 100k miles, or how many years?

Its just too long.

I have two GM cars, both had dexcool. I just drain and refill the system every other year, and have never had a problem with coolant.

I even use the walmart supertech coolant, and distilled water.
 
The shop I work has in the past, has never addressed the cooling system from a maintenance standpoint, in spite of maniacally changing oil and tuning up customer cars. I don't get it. My boss will scoff if a customer exceeds his specified 3k oil/filter service regimen, but will never change a radiator cap (let alone test it) or flush a cooling system until the heater core plugs up or they're in there for another reason and have to dig the sludge out. I'm working very hard to change that.

So far, I've pretty much made radiator cap testing a normal part of out service work and have gotten dozens replaced. Sometimes he won't do it because the customer doesn't have a lot of money, or for some other reason.... But I'm getting him there. Also thanks to me, he stocks traditional green, GO5, Dex and Zerex Asian Mix, where before, he had Green, Dex, Mopar Pink GO5 (Just for Mopars because it's pink) and an all makes/all models... He still doesn't like putting in Zerex GO5 in a Mopar, because it's not pink. I keep hammering on him that color doesn't mean jack squat. Don't even get me started on all makes/all models coolant and that he actually thought that they were truly compatible for refilling say half the coolant...

The point to my rant, is that people, even the ones who are supposed to be "in the know", often DON'T. They treat the cooling system as it will never need touched. I feel this is the single largest reason for trouble with the cooling system... NEGLECT. Thanks to this site and it's many knowledgeable members , I've learned a great amount and I intended to pass it on to customers, friends and other people "in the know"...

So to end, I say "Thank you to all the many knowledgeable members and please keep up the good work!"
 
Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
Radiator drain and fill every other year... Odds are you will never have any issues.


$9 worth of maintenance every two years will prevent many of the dex cool sludge problems.

Ford had a weird problem with their thunderbirds and a few other cars. What would happen was the coolant would actually start to hold current (electrolysis), and that would pop the heater core repeatedly.

It would get worse if you had old coolant in there. Their solution was to put a flow reducer on the core, and to hook up a GROUND STRAP to the core to discharge any current buildup.

Nuts.
 
The whole idea was to extend coolant replacement, from 2yr to 5 yr. If you keep with 2 yr change out, you'll never have a problem, but this stuff is suppose to last 5 yrs. I also remembering reading on a Dex-cool(Havoline) container that you can back fill GM vehicles to 1993. Probably because of the wide use of aluminum in the blocks & rads.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
I have a 1997 Chevy truck with the Vortec 350 and it has has Dex-Cool since it was new. It was flushed and filled every 2-3 years and it has never had a problem. The original radiator was replaced because of a leak but that was 4 years ago and all is still well.
I keep seeing comments about Death-cool? Where does this come from? Should I switch over to another coolent? Thanks!


youve been taking good care of your truck with out problems so i would say keep it up and dont change a thing except those intake gaskets, they start leaking at around 140k. very slowly i might add.

i think it only does harm when folks run it too long, and they always do because they dont want to spend the money to replace it so...
but you can flush it all out and run a universal coolant for less money. i would suggest prestone or maxlife

im no engineer but i never seen a new car fall apart with it. it seems its always pple with 150k or so miles
 
the intake in my dads 350 and my 4.3 had radiator coolant changes every 2-3 years with usually zerex and still had problems, go figure.
 
Originally Posted By: electrolover
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
I have a 1997 Chevy truck with the Vortec 350 and it has has Dex-Cool since it was new. It was flushed and filled every 2-3 years and it has never had a problem. The original radiator was replaced because of a leak but that was 4 years ago and all is still well.
I keep seeing comments about Death-cool? Where does this come from? Should I switch over to another coolent? Thanks!


youve been taking good care of your truck with out problems so i would say keep it up and dont change a thing except those intake gaskets, they start leaking at around 140k. very slowly i might add.

i think it only does harm when folks run it too long, and they always do because they dont want to spend the money to replace it so...
but you can flush it all out and run a universal coolant for less money. i would suggest prestone or maxlife

im no engineer but i never seen a new car fall apart with it. it seems its always pple with 150k or so miles


My intake gaskets were replaced at around 117,000 miles if I remember correctly. I caught the leak in a UOA and had it fixed right away. That was about 20,000 or 30,000 miles ago. I hope they are not leaking already again as it cost me about $600 to fix the 1st leaking gasket.
 
actually, the ground strap is not that un-heard of. there exists both electrolysis, and ionic transfer that occurs between the radiator and engine as the air passes. elc types, and not conventionals, are the ones that can really resist the effect. in rigs, it is the industry standard that trucks are made with radiator ground straps. the only time i have not seen this, is on the western-stars with cat engines, meant to run on cat elc. once the fleet was slowly switched over to conventional coolant(even with sca inhibitor) all the blocks and liners begain to pit away. what happens, is the electrons flow through the radiator and deposit on the block. and, just as a battery will convert water into electrolyte as you apply a charge, so will the coolant be converted as it tries to travel back to the radiator, unless short-circuted. in-turn, this further propigates electrolysis via heat transfer(much similar to a thermo-couple). i'm not defending ford, or what they do, ans i find much of their designing kinda "hinkey" or sub-standard at times, just thowing out some info behind the matter.
 
In a cooling system properly set up for dex-cool (pressurized overflow bottle, compatible gaskets, etc), and if it's changed on schedule, it's fine. Otherwise, issues can result.
 
Originally Posted By: JustinH
Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
Radiator drain and fill every other year... Odds are you will never have any issues.


$9 worth of maintenance every two years will prevent many of the dex cool sludge problems.


Traditional low-silicate American Green would work just fine with the same regiment and it is not affected by exposure to air (in fact, my Axiom is doing just fine with 2 year drain-refills with green). So how is Dex-cool better than it or G-05?

If you have to change DC every two years to keep it from gumming up your engine, there are NO advantages to it WHATSOEVER over other coolants!
 
do yourself a favor, if you can.......find some undiluted prestone dex-cool, and first, dip your finger in it and rub it between your thumb and forefinger. first impression, not knowing what it was, you would swear you are playing with a light-weight orange oil, not coolant. with the other hand, do the same with conventional. it is most definitely not the same lubrication. now, imagine your water pump seal/bearings. it is no different than an oil shaft seal. the bearing is greased, but lip seals rely on seeping to stay lubed. anywhere from 50-75k miles on average, the grease has reached it's lifespan. it's no big secret that this has been a water pump life on many gm vehicles for decades, however, with dex-cool, the same pump can last over 200k miles easy. this, is because the coolant takes over as a seal lube once the factory lube has run dry. the coolant you use means the difference between continued seal performance, vs. leakage that can quickly wash the bearing after the pump begins to weep. aside from the already described properties, cold weather protection is the best i have ever seen, aside from alcohol base, but that's pretty much an exotic in my book. up here in AK, and many in-land states, temps can reach sub-zero very easily. at all combinations, the best i could ever get out of a new, fresh mixed conventional is -13f. of coarse, it will remain not completely froze to the measured freeze pint, but far before that, it begins to slush. believe it or not, this completely hindered heat transfer in my banshee, and it quickly overheated(under 5 min) after tarping and heating the whole bike, i switched it over to prestone dex-cool, and it remained 100% liquid state lower than -33f. i could not check it any lower than that, but it has definitely proven the point.
 
Originally Posted By: akheathen
do yourself a favor, if you can.......find some undiluted prestone dex-cool, and first, dip your finger in it and rub it between your thumb and forefinger. first impression, not knowing what it was, you would swear you are playing with a light-weight orange oil, not coolant. with the other hand, do the same with conventional. it is most definitely not the same lubrication. now, imagine your water pump seal/bearings. it is no different than an oil shaft seal. the bearing is greased, but lip seals rely on seeping to stay lubed. anywhere from 50-75k miles on average, the grease has reached it's lifespan. it's no big secret that this has been a water pump life on many gm vehicles for decades, however, with dex-cool, the same pump can last over 200k miles easy. this, is because the coolant takes over as a seal lube once the factory lube has run dry. the coolant you use means the difference between continued seal performance, vs. leakage that can quickly wash the bearing after the pump begins to weep. aside from the already described properties, cold weather protection is the best i have ever seen, aside from alcohol base, but that's pretty much an exotic in my book. up here in AK, and many in-land states, temps can reach sub-zero very easily. at all combinations, the best i could ever get out of a new, fresh mixed conventional is -13f. of coarse, it will remain not completely froze to the measured freeze pint, but far before that, it begins to slush. believe it or not, this completely hindered heat transfer in my banshee, and it quickly overheated(under 5 min) after tarping and heating the whole bike, i switched it over to prestone dex-cool, and it remained 100% liquid state lower than -33f. i could not check it any lower than that, but it has definitely proven the point.


I have run dexcool in vehicles for 11 years now. On occasion I have started those vehicles unaided in -42C. No problem with dexcool staying liquid at those temps, and most Canadians run Dex at 50/50.

I did change a LIM gasket at about 150k miles in my '98 Chev K1500 vortec 350. When I sold the truck at 181k miles, UOAs showed no leaks, though I had them install the Felpro "problem solver" gaskets.
 
My Axiom spent its life in AK (look at my location under my user name), never had any problems with coolant freezing or engine overheating, always run 60/40 mix.
At 60K water pump is still running strong.
PS it is not garaged, block heater is on the timer (when I remember to plug it in). It sits unplugged days at a time, always starts right up.
 
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