Oil filter change help 2011 Toyota Camry SE, 4 Cyl

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Hi, I just purchased a 2011 Camry SE, 4 cyl. The recommended oil change interval is 10k. I think this is too long, and thus will not be taking advantage of 2 yrs of free dealer cahnges. I am not familiar with the cartridge style oil filter... I looked at it, but am wondering Aif someone can provide step by step instruction on changing the filter, and advise on any special tools that will make the job as easy as possible?
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Also, no transmission service interval and no way to check the fluid level?
 
No problem running the factory fill / Toyo oil for 10K.

It would be wasteful and expensive to change it more frequently. Let the dealer do the changes & they'll take care of the filter as well.

I know your worry.... on the other hand, I've gotten over it and now let the dealer do the changes w/ 0W20 Toyota oil & filter on my Hybrid Cammy. No problems ah-tall.
 
Changing bottom mounted cartridge oil filter is a real messy. Most German engines have top mounted cartridge oil filters, changing those can be done without a drop of oil on the engine or garage floor.

If my cars have bottom mounted cartridge oil filter I would take it to an Indy to have them change the oil and filter.
 
Originally Posted By: garlicbreadman
wow....so many more steps and more messy!

why does toyota use this platform for filters?


It is actually less mess than a spin on filter. If you are making a mess, you are doing it wrong and over complicating it.

Toyota is not the only maker switching over to cartridge filters. All the major brands are slowly going this route. Main thing with a cartridge filter is disposal cost are less as the used elements can be incinerated.

Both my Toyota's are cartridge and have given me no problems. It is actually nice to have a open element to inspect when doing a filter change,
 
Wow that bottom mounted cartridge seems like a hassle. I haven't changed the top mount on the 2010 Equinox yet, have free dealer oil changes for another 12k. I got the special socket needed, though. Hope it isn't as much of a hassle or as messy as the bottom mounted cartridge style. That seems much worse than a canister style.
 
Some of the cartridge types have a drain on them. The replacement filter will come with a spout if it's an option.
 
Thanks for the info. Shouldnt be bad if proper tools are used.... the filter can does have a drain. Shouldnt be messy to remove....
 
Originally Posted By: wallyuwl
Wow that bottom mounted cartridge seems like a hassle. I haven't changed the top mount on the 2010 Equinox yet, have free dealer oil changes for another 12k. I got the special socket needed, though. Hope it isn't as much of a hassle or as messy as the bottom mounted cartridge style. That seems much worse than a canister style.


Is that the four cylinder Equinox? My wife's 6 cylinder has the traditional metal can oil filter mounted below (it does mount vertically though, which is a bonus).
 
That is far more complicated than just taking an old filter off and replacing it with a new one. I can see the advantage of being more "environmentally friendly" but I also see the potential downside of damaging something and costing the owner a lot more money.

I also cringe to think about what would happen if there was a manufacturing defect on those filters and Toyota had to recall them.

Personally I like the way most cars are set up now where you take off the filter and oil pan bolt and then replace them and put new oil in. Much faster and simpler for me.
 
An example of top mounted cartridge oil filter that can be found in most German engines. I used cap wrench which is easier to remove the oil filter cap on my E430.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Hootbro
...

It is actually less mess than a spin on filter. If you are making a mess, you are doing it wrong and over complicating it.

Toyota is not the only maker switching over to cartridge filters. All the major brands are slowly going this route. Main thing with a cartridge filter is disposal cost are less as the used elements can be incinerated.

Both my Toyota's are cartridge and have given me no problems. It is actually nice to have a open element to inspect when doing a filter change,



I must respectfully disagree. The underside cartridge setup on my wife's 07 2GR-powered Avalon has been nothing but a total PITA. The neatness of this setup depends upon being able to open the little cap on the bottom of the filter setup so that you can attach the drain hose. IF that works, and that's been a big IF for me, then when you take off the main housing, it's empty and there's little mess. Alas, for me, despite having noted and applied the torque specs for the "little cap" and the main canister, somehow, the little cap is now so tightly attached that it won't come off, period. So the only option is to remove the whole housing, still filled with hot oil. Unlike a good spin on, which at least can be removed quickly, the Toyota canister has way too many threads, and as a result, there's plenty of time, while unscrewing, for hot oil to spill everywhere.

I also find the fundamental design inferior. Both the canister and a spin-on have the potential to leak from the main gasket seal. But the Toyota canister design has TWO seals from which to leak -- the main one, and the little one on that silly little lid on the end where you attach the "clean hands" drain tube. And what if the valve for the needless drain tube fails?

We've had photos posted here of a dramatic failure of the Toyota canister. The main O-ring is much, much more fragile than the gasket on virtually ALL can-type filters, and can be easily broken if you don't place it in just the right position, lube it fully, and then screw the housing on just-so gently.

The new Toyota system is a Rube Goldberg disaster waiting to happen. And if you ruin your engine because you didn't know how to screw the housing on just-so, you know what they'll say -- screw you. Yes, I do like being able to inspect the filter element. But I can get to my can filter's element in two minutes with my trusty pipe cutter. Toyota is headed totally in the wrong direction with its cartridge approach.
 
Gotta be extremely careful with those drain valves on bottom mounted canisters, if they are not leaking leave it alone. Ive seen too many cars leaking from it after it gets taken off and new o-ring put on. Its just much easier to clean up the mess from taking it off without draining than dealing with oil leaks in the future. Another thing you need to be careful about is the gasket if you don't lube it like the guy shows it in the video its easy for it to pinch or get out of its grove when you're putting the canister back in place. Overall the top mounted canisters are amazing when it comes to cleanliness and simplicity, the bottom mounted ones can be annoying.
 
Any filter relocation kits?
That looks like a brutal o/c in winter outdoors. Messy too.

Our 03 4Runner 4.0L has the spin-on on top = easy. The Cam has the spin-on almost vertical underneath. The German setups look good. The new Toyota setups look poor for d-i-y. I'll be passing on those in the future.
 
That doesn't look like any fun at all. I'd classify the design and number of steps as downright bizarre.

I definitely prefer my e46's simple can is front and center when you open the hood. All that takes is five minutes and a big crescent wrench.
 
I guess it depends on the platform. On my IS250 once you figure out what is going on it is not that messy at all, other than having to put the new O ring back on the cap.

The key is to reach it without lifting the car. If you are skinny and have long arm, it is doable.
 
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