I had the opportunity to use this "old tech" cleaning tool on a couple leaded up single action army clones this past weekend.
For those who are unfamiliar with the tool, the Lewis lead remover is comprised of an 8 inch sturdy threaded metal rod with "T" handle, a metal and rubber bore plug, metal forcing code adapter, a set of brass wire mesh screens and a copper rod for tightening the bore plug or forcing cone adapter.
To use the Lewis lead remover, the T handled rod is inserted all the way through the barrel. One a revolver you would open or remove the cylinder and run the rod through the muzzle to the cylinder window. You would attach a brass screen to the rubber plug and screw on the plug to the end of the T handled rod. Cleaning is accomplished by pulling the plug/brass screen through the length of the barrel slightly turning it as it moves through the barrel and exits the muzzle.
The Lewis Lead removal tool is much quicker and more effective that the usual method of scrubbing with a bore brush and solvent. It is possibly the best choice if you are working on blued firearms as I was in this case.
Both firearms in this example were blued single action army clones. The first a Ruger Bisley blackhawk with 7.5" barrel in .45 Colt and the second a Cimarron (Uberti) Cattleman in Charcoal blue finish in .45 Colt with 5.5 " barrel.
The guns went through a range session with normal pressure hand loads consisting of Remington brass, a 250 grain swaged Remington round nose lead bullet, 8.5 grains of Alliant Unique and CCI 300 Large Pistol Primer. There were probably 50 rounds fired through each gun before they were cleaned.
After using Ed's Red to remove the obvious carbon fouling, I put a bore light in and could detect metal fouling about and inch or two from the forcing cone end of the revolver. On a stainless steel gun I would ordinarily use Birchwood Casey Lead Remover cloth, but both revolvers are nicely blued and I did not wish to take changes with their finishes.
So out came the Lewis lead remover. Two passes through the bore and a quick shot with the forcing code adapter and the lead was gone. I followed up with a solvent soaked patch to get any loosened remnants and carbon hiding under the lead streaks and some dry patches and the guns were nice and clean.
The Lewis Lead remover doesn't get much pres these days and it can be difficult to be found (Brownells still has them) but they do work extremely well without having to resort to harsh chemicals to remove stubborn lead deposits.
For those who are unfamiliar with the tool, the Lewis lead remover is comprised of an 8 inch sturdy threaded metal rod with "T" handle, a metal and rubber bore plug, metal forcing code adapter, a set of brass wire mesh screens and a copper rod for tightening the bore plug or forcing cone adapter.
To use the Lewis lead remover, the T handled rod is inserted all the way through the barrel. One a revolver you would open or remove the cylinder and run the rod through the muzzle to the cylinder window. You would attach a brass screen to the rubber plug and screw on the plug to the end of the T handled rod. Cleaning is accomplished by pulling the plug/brass screen through the length of the barrel slightly turning it as it moves through the barrel and exits the muzzle.
The Lewis Lead removal tool is much quicker and more effective that the usual method of scrubbing with a bore brush and solvent. It is possibly the best choice if you are working on blued firearms as I was in this case.
Both firearms in this example were blued single action army clones. The first a Ruger Bisley blackhawk with 7.5" barrel in .45 Colt and the second a Cimarron (Uberti) Cattleman in Charcoal blue finish in .45 Colt with 5.5 " barrel.
The guns went through a range session with normal pressure hand loads consisting of Remington brass, a 250 grain swaged Remington round nose lead bullet, 8.5 grains of Alliant Unique and CCI 300 Large Pistol Primer. There were probably 50 rounds fired through each gun before they were cleaned.
After using Ed's Red to remove the obvious carbon fouling, I put a bore light in and could detect metal fouling about and inch or two from the forcing cone end of the revolver. On a stainless steel gun I would ordinarily use Birchwood Casey Lead Remover cloth, but both revolvers are nicely blued and I did not wish to take changes with their finishes.
So out came the Lewis lead remover. Two passes through the bore and a quick shot with the forcing code adapter and the lead was gone. I followed up with a solvent soaked patch to get any loosened remnants and carbon hiding under the lead streaks and some dry patches and the guns were nice and clean.
The Lewis Lead remover doesn't get much pres these days and it can be difficult to be found (Brownells still has them) but they do work extremely well without having to resort to harsh chemicals to remove stubborn lead deposits.
