I have used Mobil 1 for years now, & was wondering if the Mobil 1 ext. performance is worth the extra money. Is there a difference between these oils? Has anybody done any comparative oil analysis on these oils after use?
Mobil1 vs Mobil 1 extended performance
- Thread starter kevin01
- Start date
- Status
If you do some research you will find that M1 is a good oil, but M1EP tends to be much better regarded by people in more know than me, like Terry Dyson.
I personally would rather not put $ into EOM's pockets anymore considering their business strategy and ways of dealing with the public.
I personally would rather not put $ into EOM's pockets anymore considering their business strategy and ways of dealing with the public.
a bottle of SLOB will turn M1 into M1EP according to Miles Freman
The EP version has more EP and AW additives.
Depending on your valvetrain, it could make a difference.
If you have a high performance cam and springs, I'd use the EP version.
Depending on your valvetrain, it could make a difference.
If you have a high performance cam and springs, I'd use the EP version.
I think for changes up to 6000 miles the regular M1 is fine in almost every application. If you like to go longer then the EP is worth the extra money. Probably good for 10,000 to 12,000 in most applications and 15,000 if your engine is easy on oil. Just my 2cents worth.
Who is Miles Freman? Never heard of him.
Thanks for the advise. I think that I will stick with the M1. I will be doing my first analysis at the next oil change. I will let the TBN tell the story.
Well TBN is not the whole story. Looking at UOA's on regular Mobil 1 SM version and M1EP, i would go with M1EP. The wear numbers with EP are much better than the regular M1.
Only 6000 miles on Mobil 1? Most any ordinary dino should be good for that long in most applications. When M1 came out 30+ years ago, it was said to be good for 25,000 miles or one year, just like Amsoil claims now. I, personally, used Mobil 1 in my primary car for about 25 years, until I retired. I always changed once a year, usually at about 18 to 20,000 miles. My engines always stayed smooth and quiet up to the 140,000 miles which was the longest I ever kept a car. That was seven years, plenty long to stay in the same car.
Some where along the line, Mobil dropped the 25,000 mile claim; I heard it was due to people ruining their engines by not checking their oil for 25,000 miles and running out.
As I have asked repeatedly, what did Mobil do to their EP that made it only good for 15,000 miles?
Emissions standards make engines cleaner running and provide a more controlled environment for the oil. Modern fuel injection means much less fuel dilution for the oil to suffer through.
I used M1 and one year OCI's up until about 2001 and my retirement. Engines have not changed much in the last 5 years.
Engines have not changed much in the last 5 years.
We've seen a lot of engines become candidates for sludge in the past 5 years. I can't help but think that the tightly controlled (but not ideal for oil) environment to reduce tailpipe emissions is the cause of that.
We've seen a lot of engines become candidates for sludge in the past 5 years. I can't help but think that the tightly controlled (but not ideal for oil) environment to reduce tailpipe emissions is the cause of that.
In the last 5 years? The Toyota sludgers were early 1990's designs. The Chrysler corporation 2.7 liter V-6 sludger is a 1990's design. These are the only consistant sludgers I know of, and sludge affects only a small percentage of them.
Some of the tightest emission controls are on Honda engines, and on their cars not equipped with the oil life monitor they are recommending 10,000 mile OCI's, and 20,000 mile oil filter changes. This on 5W20 oils, some of which appear to be straight dino, although some are synblends.
The sludge problems often don't show up at first. It's only after a number of years or miles into the real world environment that the issues show up.
If every engine ran as well as they did when brand new there would be no reason for products such as AutoRx.
VW a couple of years back sent letters out to all 1.8T Passat owners advising them that from now on they needed to start using VW approved synthetic motor oil. The factory advised OCI is now 5,000 or every 6 months. At the same time VW changed the recommended size of the oil filter to slightly increase the oil capacity. Many of us who'd been using synthetic all along decided to do an AutoRx treatment or two just as a precaution.
10,000 mile recommended oil changes from the manufacturer are nothing new. Only time will tell if following that recommendation is right for the way you operate your vehicle. I've almost always gone with a 3,000 OCI for my '89 Toyota truck. Toyota's recommendation was 10,000 normally, or 5,000 if you operated under severe conditions.
Even with 3,000 OCI I've still got a need for Auto-Rx. At what point did the sludge start to build up? That I couldn't tell you. I can only speculate that had I gone with the factory recommended 10,000 OCI I'd have a much worse problem or it would have shown up a lot sooner.
If every engine ran as well as they did when brand new there would be no reason for products such as AutoRx.
VW a couple of years back sent letters out to all 1.8T Passat owners advising them that from now on they needed to start using VW approved synthetic motor oil. The factory advised OCI is now 5,000 or every 6 months. At the same time VW changed the recommended size of the oil filter to slightly increase the oil capacity. Many of us who'd been using synthetic all along decided to do an AutoRx treatment or two just as a precaution.
10,000 mile recommended oil changes from the manufacturer are nothing new. Only time will tell if following that recommendation is right for the way you operate your vehicle. I've almost always gone with a 3,000 OCI for my '89 Toyota truck. Toyota's recommendation was 10,000 normally, or 5,000 if you operated under severe conditions.
Even with 3,000 OCI I've still got a need for Auto-Rx. At what point did the sludge start to build up? That I couldn't tell you. I can only speculate that had I gone with the factory recommended 10,000 OCI I'd have a much worse problem or it would have shown up a lot sooner.
I suppose that we now know what Mobil 1 did that made their new M1 EP good for only 15,000 miles, as opposed to the 25,000 miles or one year of the original M1 that came out back in the mid 1970's. Apparently, some of the new formulations are not 100% PAO, as the original M1 was.
I think Mobil has made a complete mess out of their oils. M1 EP is simply a spiked version of the regular. Higher TBN, more AO and more SuperSyn which is a high viscosity PAO. Beyond that it's anyone's guess. My personal belief is that all M1 oils except maybe 3 are majority Group III with PAO/AN as the correction fluid. The new M1 EP 5w-20 however looks great on paper. Time will tell if it's that good.
>>>I suppose that we now know what Mobil 1 did that made their new M1 EP good for only 15,000 miles, as opposed to the 25,000 miles or one year of the original M1 that came out back in the mid 1970's. Apparently, some of the new formulations are not 100% PAO, as the original M1 was.
The original Mobil 1 was plugged as good for 12,500 miles. This was bumped to 15,000. Then it was bumped to 25,000, based on AMSOIL claims. Shortly after AMSOIL published NOACK results on various oils, including Mr Goodwrench (worth of the lot), Mobil got the factory fill contract.
Best guess is that one of the requirements was that there would be no recommendation for extended drain interval.
Some folks who were with Mobil after the merger of equals (Exxon was more equal than Mobil) said that the next formulation of Mobil 1 did some serious cost engineering.
Mobil 1 EP, from the bench tests, is better than Mobil 1 plain.
The original Mobil 1 was plugged as good for 12,500 miles. This was bumped to 15,000. Then it was bumped to 25,000, based on AMSOIL claims. Shortly after AMSOIL published NOACK results on various oils, including Mr Goodwrench (worth of the lot), Mobil got the factory fill contract.
Best guess is that one of the requirements was that there would be no recommendation for extended drain interval.
Some folks who were with Mobil after the merger of equals (Exxon was more equal than Mobil) said that the next formulation of Mobil 1 did some serious cost engineering.
Mobil 1 EP, from the bench tests, is better than Mobil 1 plain.
I switched from plain M-1 to the EP early November, so I wouldn't have to worry about changing oil during the winter(5W-30 both ways). I got a noticeable drop in mileage for the first thousand miles or so, then it came back up.
Leads me to think that the EP is on the thicker side of 30 weight.
Leads me to think that the EP is on the thicker side of 30 weight.
- Status
Similar threads
