I would like to use this product but I not certain this foaming cleaner safe for plastic intakes?
It said do not use near painted surfaces & plastic parts.
It said do not use near painted surfaces & plastic parts.
Amsoil power foam cleaner
- Thread starter willix
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I'm sure it's fine. Another option is to use undiluted Simple Green (available at Home Depot and Autozone...and probably a lot of other places). Run the engine for a couple of minutes so it's warm. Spray this stuff all over the engine compartment. You want to avoid paint as it will strip any wax off. It will also react with aluminum if you leave it on there for hours. I rinse it off after 3-4 minutes and it usually makes pretty short work of grease/oil without leaving the usual solvent stench behind. Also works great for general cleanup around the garage/kitchen if you dilute it.
Best,
Best,
I think the OP is referring to cleaning the inside of the air intake?
Originally Posted By: willix
I would like to use this product but I not certain this foaming cleaner safe for plastic intakes?
It said do not use near painted surfaces & plastic parts.
Quote:
AMSOIL Power Foam is safe for fuel injectors, catalytic converters and emission control devices. It will not damage seals, gaskets, rubber or plastic materials commonly used in gasoline engines.
Quote:
To prevent the dissolving of paint, do not overspray.
Amsoil Power Foam
I would like to use this product but I not certain this foaming cleaner safe for plastic intakes?
It said do not use near painted surfaces & plastic parts.
Quote:
AMSOIL Power Foam is safe for fuel injectors, catalytic converters and emission control devices. It will not damage seals, gaskets, rubber or plastic materials commonly used in gasoline engines.
Quote:
To prevent the dissolving of paint, do not overspray.
Amsoil Power Foam
I use this product every day and it has never hurt any plastic it contacts. Great product, really works well.
Thanks Pablo, Thats what I wanted to hear.
I am referring to intake & upper internal cleaning. I really don't care much about the external dirt under the hood.
I am referring to intake & upper internal cleaning. I really don't care much about the external dirt under the hood.
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Originally Posted By: ZZman
Everyday?
Oh yeah. I used to use it only on the badly carboned units that came in, lately I've been using it as a piston crown soak on almost every unit. It definitely cleans the carbon/calcium from the piston crown, and it might even clean some of the carbon from the ring lands, although I have no proof of the latter.
Everyday?
Oh yeah. I used to use it only on the badly carboned units that came in, lately I've been using it as a piston crown soak on almost every unit. It definitely cleans the carbon/calcium from the piston crown, and it might even clean some of the carbon from the ring lands, although I have no proof of the latter.
Where does all the dirt go when it is removed from the intake manifold?
Now it says APF is not recommended for MAF engines.
Does that mean don't get the APF on the MAF or, other sensors down the line will be effected too?
http://i826.photobucket.com/albums/zz183/billytheshoe/100_1143.jpg[/IMG]]Cleaning this cruddy intake
Does that mean don't get the APF on the MAF or, other sensors down the line will be effected too?
http://i826.photobucket.com/albums/zz183/billytheshoe/100_1143.jpg[/IMG]]Cleaning this cruddy intake
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I know that I wouldn't want to run it through the MAF even before they printed that on the label. I don't think that there's anything distinctive about downstream sensors on a MAF vs. non-MAF engine.
It's pretty clear (to me anyways) that the label instructions are for older, carbed engines. I've been a little chicken to shoot my BMW's intake manifold full of APF, I have to admit, but I've been using it on OPE and other engines for a while. I really does seem to work. If I had a fancy-pants direct injection engine (and especially if I was one of those folks that pull the IM and take pictures of the valves every OC) I'd probably be shooting some in the area of the valves every OCI.
It's pretty clear (to me anyways) that the label instructions are for older, carbed engines. I've been a little chicken to shoot my BMW's intake manifold full of APF, I have to admit, but I've been using it on OPE and other engines for a while. I really does seem to work. If I had a fancy-pants direct injection engine (and especially if I was one of those folks that pull the IM and take pictures of the valves every OC) I'd probably be shooting some in the area of the valves every OCI.
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Originally Posted By: Vikas
It just gets burned!
the dirt gets burned??? why the need for an air filter then?
It just gets burned!
the dirt gets burned??? why the need for an air filter then?
Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
I know that I wouldn't want to run it through the MAF even before they printed that on the label. I don't think that there's anything distinctive about downstream sensors on a MAF vs. non-MAF engines.
I am going to apply the foam when running and believe I will find a way to do this down stream of the MAF. The MAP sensor is right behind the TB and am then worried about that sensor. I guess I will see what happens. The MAP looks to be the cheaper of the 2 to replace. My APF arrived today.
I know that I wouldn't want to run it through the MAF even before they printed that on the label. I don't think that there's anything distinctive about downstream sensors on a MAF vs. non-MAF engines.
I am going to apply the foam when running and believe I will find a way to do this down stream of the MAF. The MAP sensor is right behind the TB and am then worried about that sensor. I guess I will see what happens. The MAP looks to be the cheaper of the 2 to replace. My APF arrived today.
Originally Posted By: willix
Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
I know that I wouldn't want to run it through the MAF even before they printed that on the label. I don't think that there's anything distinctive about downstream sensors on a MAF vs. non-MAF engines.
I am going to apply the foam when running and believe I will find a way to do this down stream of the MAF. The MAP sensor is right behind the TB and am then worried about that sensor. I guess I will see what happens. The MAP looks to be the cheaper of the 2 to replace. My APF arrived today.
I figured that if I ever used it on my car, I wouldn't bother using it running. If I want it in the cylinders, I'll remove the plugs and spray it in there.
If I want it in the IM, I'll pull the throttle body and fill the IM with it directly.
I know that APF is foam, so it'll be better than things like water or Seafoam, but depending on IM vacuum and vapour flow patterns to evenly distribute a liquid/foam isn't going to work very evenly. For instance I know that water decarbonizing works, but I don't see how you know that you evenly reached all 4,6,8,whatever cylinders through the single brake booster line, for instance. As a matter of fact, I bet you only effectively reach 1 or 2.
JMO
Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
I know that I wouldn't want to run it through the MAF even before they printed that on the label. I don't think that there's anything distinctive about downstream sensors on a MAF vs. non-MAF engines.
I am going to apply the foam when running and believe I will find a way to do this down stream of the MAF. The MAP sensor is right behind the TB and am then worried about that sensor. I guess I will see what happens. The MAP looks to be the cheaper of the 2 to replace. My APF arrived today.
I figured that if I ever used it on my car, I wouldn't bother using it running. If I want it in the cylinders, I'll remove the plugs and spray it in there.
If I want it in the IM, I'll pull the throttle body and fill the IM with it directly.
I know that APF is foam, so it'll be better than things like water or Seafoam, but depending on IM vacuum and vapour flow patterns to evenly distribute a liquid/foam isn't going to work very evenly. For instance I know that water decarbonizing works, but I don't see how you know that you evenly reached all 4,6,8,whatever cylinders through the single brake booster line, for instance. As a matter of fact, I bet you only effectively reach 1 or 2.
JMO
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Originally Posted By: willix
I am going to apply the foam when running and believe I will find a way to do this down stream of the MAF. The MAP sensor is right behind the TB and am then worried about that sensor. I guess I will see what happens. The MAP looks to be the cheaper of the 2 to replace. My APF arrived today.
I have never seen that. What car? Most American cars have them after the air cleaner and before the Throttle body.
One thing you will have to do is reset the ECM (engine computer). The power foam will set off a bunch of miss-fire codes. I think the easiest way is to disconnect your battery for an hour. Your engine may stall after reconnecting the battery as the computer re-learns what it is suppose to do.
I am going to apply the foam when running and believe I will find a way to do this down stream of the MAF. The MAP sensor is right behind the TB and am then worried about that sensor. I guess I will see what happens. The MAP looks to be the cheaper of the 2 to replace. My APF arrived today.
I have never seen that. What car? Most American cars have them after the air cleaner and before the Throttle body.
One thing you will have to do is reset the ECM (engine computer). The power foam will set off a bunch of miss-fire codes. I think the easiest way is to disconnect your battery for an hour. Your engine may stall after reconnecting the battery as the computer re-learns what it is suppose to do.
The MAF is housed in the black horn on the outside of the TB.
I can take a pick & widen a square in the debris screen so the 1/16" APF nozzle straw feeds past the the MAF and close the Throttle plate on it.
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I can take a pick & widen a square in the debris screen so the 1/16" APF nozzle straw feeds past the the MAF and close the Throttle plate on it.
[img:center]
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If it is a GM engine, just squirt it in the brake vacuum line, or PVC line.
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