Go cheap or expensive for rotors?

[sciphi]

I'm starting to get shake when braking in the Buick. Most pronounced going down steep, long hills.

In light of other brake system issues, I want to replace the rotors while it's all apart. I have no problem getting expensive rotors if the warranty is better or they're known to last longer before warping.

Is the accepted wisdom here to go dirt-cheap on the rotors because they're a throw-away wear item, or go expensive because the cheap ones warp in 0.000001 seconds?

 

[H25B]

I prefer the higher quality rotors. In my estimation the time to warp the cheap ones is more like 0.00001 seconds, just a fraction longer than you were thinking


In my experience Napa "premium" OE-replacement rotors have a very high value rotor. They aren't outrageously priced and they run true for a very long time.

 

[shrooms]

Cheap.

 

[qdeezie]

I prefer cheap rotors, however if you are driving down long steep hills on a regular, you might want to invest in cross drilled (not cross drilled and slotted, but cross drilled only) to reduce the heating effect, which is what's warping your rotors.

 

[lipadj46]

Originally Posted By: sciphi
I'm starting to get shake when braking in the Buick. Most pronounced going down steep, long hills.

In light of other brake system issues, I want to replace the rotors while it's all apart. I have no problem getting expensive rotors if the warranty is better or they're known to last longer before warping.

Is the accepted wisdom here to go dirt-cheap on the rotors because they're a throw-away wear item, or go expensive because the cheap ones warp in 0.000001 seconds?



99% of the time I don't think rotors really warp it is more likely hub run out or pad material build up on the rotors. Depending on the car or truck I would go cheap or buy better (if it actually means a better product).

 

[pbm]

I have found little difference in the cheaper rotors and have always gone that route without issue..

 

[The Critic]

Right now, I have a set of Hawk HPS pads and a set of cheap Aimco rotors from Kragen and I have not had any pedal pulsation issues. This includes 7k+ of hilly driving and lots of brake "riding." As some people have mentioned, I think part of the solution is to have brake pads that are somewhat aggressive and will not deposit an uneven layer of material onto the rotor surface.

 

[Jimmy9190]

I think the cheaper rotors and middle to best quality pads is the better combination. I really like the Autozone Duralast pads. I had a lot of problems with the Wearever Silver series pads from AAP.

 

[Stu_Rock]

I also have been wondering about how different the cheap rotors are from the name brands.

If this car takes the 12 inch rotors GM used on C,E,F,G,H,K,V,W body cars, I can say that all brands are from China now. I don't know the status of the 11 inch size also used on those cars.

Is there really a difference between, say, Wagner and Guardian or Aimco? (If so, maybe I'll feel like less of a chump for ordering Wagners for my last brake job).

 

[ET16]

I sometimes take the middle road with Brembos made in Italy. Usually not too expensive.

 

[Hemi426]

There is certainly a difference in cheap and quality rotors. My Dodge Dakota came with cheap rotors and they were warped in 12,000 miles. I put on a quality made in the U.S. set and they have lasted a LONG time. Go to your local auto parts store and see if they offer some type of premium or lifetime rotor. You only get as much quality as what you pay for. I would put on a good set and be done with it myself.

 

[SZR48207]

Wouldn't spend high dollars for racing type rotors on a daily driver, but also would not buy the cheapest you can find. I generally am ok with raybestos brand brake products.

 

[Eddie]

I too like the value of Rabestos rotors & Pads

 

[Jakegday]

ever since my car got totalled and was 100% not my fault, i dont like putting more expensive parts into cars. today might be the last day you ever drive it. you just never know. (if you drive on public roads)

 

[spasm3]

cheap rotors and premium pads, use a torque wrench on the lugs. Take the wrench with you when you get tires and check them in the parking lot before driving. not a warped rotor in 15 years!!!

 

[BigBuck]

I say go cheap. DO NOT skimp on pads.

 

[Mr Nice]

Originally Posted By: Stu_Rock
Is there really a difference between, say, Wagner and Guardian or Aimco? (If so, maybe I'll feel like less of a chump for ordering Wagners for my last brake job).


Are all Wagner products made in China..... or just their rotors ?

 

[fdcg27]

Originally Posted By: ET16
I sometimes take the middle road with Brembos made in Italy. Usually not too expensive.


The last set of rotors I bought were Brembos.
They were of good quality, and were pretty inexpensive.
I was impressed that a name brand of known quality was suprisingly cheap.

 

[eljefino]

Go cheap, I am thinking Advance auto.

Put some AA rotors on my buick century, these look the same as the ones on my intrigue 3.8, monsterous in size, especially for GM. Luckily the price on two just pushed me over a coupon threshold so I paid like $18 a rotor.

They float, so you want a clean mating surface, but lug torque isn't amazingly critical. (but get it right anyway)

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
Go cheap, I am thinking Advance auto.

Put some AA rotors on my buick century, these look the same as the ones on my intrigue 3.8, monsterous in size, especially for GM. Luckily the price on two just pushed me over a coupon threshold so I paid like $18 a rotor.

They float, so you want a clean mating surface, but lug torque isn't amazingly critical. (but get it right anyway)


The torque lbs is not critical as long as its enough. having all the lugs at the same torque whatever it may be is crucial to not warping rotors.