mobil 1 high mileage synthetic oil question...

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Here goes, I am confused and need some advice from this forum experts
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I have year 2000 Lexus ES300 sedan and own since new and change oil every 5k miles. At 90k miles, I switched to Castrol high mileage and I am on 151k miles now. I don't have any burn-ins or leaks.

However, I happen to see Mobil 1 high mileage synthetic oil at Walmart and thinking of switching to it. My questions are (if cost is not an issue):

How is M1 compare to Castrol that I am using?
Will there be any advantage to start using M1?

I read on this forum that regular M1 synthetic oil shows high iron wear on UOA testing. Will that be true with high mileage synthetic as well?. I use purolator one oil filter.

Appreciate your valuable inputs......
 
I see no advantage whatsoever, but Im not a fan of oils with excessive detergency where they dont require it. I would recommend a quality RDS product over the BP gunk, though. And stick to 4-5K OCI with a min seasonal OC.
 
The most apparent difference is that M1 high mileage is api SL, whereas your current fill of castrol high mileage is SM rated. i'm actually going to run M1 HM next spring/summer and see how i like it. i got it in the 10w-40 flavor, to hopefully combat some oil burning and a noisy engine.
 
"but Im not a fan of oils with excessive detergency where they dont require it"

The Toyota 3.0 might be one place it would be nice, perhaps the most common sludgemonster in recent years.

At 5000 miles I doubt it would matter which oil you chose, though. I think the M1 is a better product but don't think you'd notice a difference.
 
M1 HM has a killer add pack.

It is a better product being a Syn Oil.

Would do more cleaning and last longer.

Have anyone seen a bad looking Mobil 1 engine in normal conditions? No.

Don't worry about the higher Iron that seems to be common. Even if true and could be related to actual wear we are only talking a few ppm anyway.
 
The high Iron "issue" is not common to either the High Mileage or Advanced Fuel Economy (0w20, 0w30) or the European (0w40) formula's. It seemed to pop up the most with the vanilla 5w30. But point in fact, there has been a recent formula change with it, where it seems it's even been tamed in that viscosity. I believe M1 has recently announced that something that a member here told to everyone a year ago and took a tremendous amount of heat for, that they have encorporated a Group III+ basestock into their regular line of oils (and perhaps even more recently, as in just) their other HM and AFE formula's. This was evidenced recently by the M1 10w30 HM data sheet showing a change in the negative pour point, where it has just recently changed to a less impressive number.

By the way, all of this is just what I gather from hanging around at BitoG and reading, so if I'm off here on any of this, please experts here correct me. I just say this as I don't want to sound definitive on any of this, as most of it is just kind of guesstimated by others around here who look at data sheet changes and the recent announcement by M1 of their Grp III+ basestock they have labeled Visom.

But to tidy this all up, most will tell you to not really worry about basestocks, but instead the oils add packs and other wizardry they do to formulate it have much more to do with its quality than the basestocks themselves.

I myself have been mighty impressed with the M1 HM oils UOA's, the add packs are second to none and the overall UOA's were absolutely superb. My only worry is, there is this most recent formula change where I'm suspecting they've changed from what most speculated what PAO to the VISOM, so I guess time will tell if it made any real difference. Who knows, it could actually be even better. Though I don't know how one could get much better than the last years M1 HM UOA's which imo are some of the most impressive out there. I was lucky enough to stock up on a bunch of M1 10w30 and 10w40 HM's when they were at WalMart for only $21 for 5 quart jugs. I believe these are the older ones.

If you do go to M1 HM, I would definitely push out your OCI a bit and UOA and push out some more if the UOA supports you to do so, because its of such quality that I really think you're not getting out of it what it can do.

Hope that helps, and again, please correct any misinformation I may have made. Most of this is just what I've gathered from hanging around here.
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My belief is one that is quite simple. If it aint broke don't fix it. You have gone over 151K miles on what you were using. Thats pretty darn good. You said, no burning, no oil consumption. So why change? Thats my ten cents. What your using has worked thus far. Keep using it.
 
Thanks you guys for all the responses.

Why to fix if it isn't broken is a valid point. What I don't know is how my car is doing with Castrol HM vs any other oil. I am planning to do UOA to see any improvement by swithing to M1 HM synthetic.

Even though I read some horror stories about sludge in Lexus/Toyota 1MZ-FE engines, mine drives like as new as I took on first day. I want to keep this car as long as it runs.

That's a reason, I am looking into all possibilities of 'providing' good fluids and never misses the maintenance.

Based on the responses, I will try M1 HM and compare both UOAs. I will post the results here (it's going to take some time until I complete 5k driving and get the test results).

Just curious :
Does Blackstone lab offers any discounts for forum members?. Any promotions available?.

What causes oil seals to leak - oil itself or heat and usage?.
 
Mobil 1 HM oils may be Mobils best motor oil. I have used it in new and older cars and it worked great. Mobil 1 HM 5W30 would work very well in your car.
 
I agree with Boss. I think you will be very happy with your results too. It may not be "broke" now, but it certainly doesn't hurt anything to try something different that is of known superb quality. If for nothing else than the love of your car.
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Originally Posted By: satiger
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Based on the responses, I will try M1 HM and compare both UOAs. I will post the results here (it's going to take some time until I complete 5k driving and get the test results).

UOA will not tell you anything about wear UNLESS you also do a particle count AND a filter content washdown and particle count THERE. Plus you would have to do at leat 2 OCI on the M1 since the extreme detergency will be cleaning off all the EP and its associated metals (Fe) on the first OCI and placing them into suspension. This is a BIG problem with this site - it promotes UOA for no good reason whatsoever and 90%+ of the members are clueless about UOA and VOA. Plus B-S has been making tons off boo-boo's lately - good luck trusting THEIR results. Whats up with that?
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: satiger
...
Based on the responses, I will try M1 HM and compare both UOAs. I will post the results here (it's going to take some time until I complete 5k driving and get the test results).

UOA will not tell you anything about wear UNLESS you also do a particle count AND a filter content washdown and particle count THERE. Plus you would have to do at leat 2 OCI on the M1 since the extreme detergency will be cleaning off all the EP and its associated metals (Fe) on the first OCI and placing them into suspension. This is a BIG problem with this site - it promotes UOA for no good reason whatsoever and 90%+ of the members are clueless about UOA and VOA. Plus B-S has been making tons off boo-boo's lately - good luck trusting THEIR results. Whats up with that?


+1 I'm amazed by the amount of people that think they can judge the condition of their engine or how much wear the tested oil has invoked by looking at UOA results... Rubbish.
 
It probably wouldn't make much difference in the end. But one thing about the M1 HM oils is that they make cleaning claims and perhaps you might get some cleansing of deposits Castrol HM might not get too...
 
I hear what all you guys are saying but this is what I am hearing.

Over 150K on the current brand of oil, Car "runs like it did when I bought it", and "doesn't burn or use oil".

To me, I know what your saying to "try" something new, but in this cars case, with the miles, I just don't see the need to switch. IMO.

It seems what he is using, is doing just that. Working. haha
 
Originally Posted By: ZZman
M1 HM has a killer add pack.

It is a better product being a Syn Oil.

Would do more cleaning and last longer.

Have anyone seen a bad looking Mobil 1 engine in normal conditions? No.

Don't worry about the higher Iron that seems to be common. Even if true and could be related to actual wear we are only talking a few ppm anyway.

Well said ZZ and 100% true...

the HM formula rocks!!!!
 
I'm going to second or third what the others have said about UOA. There does seem to be a big push for them on this forum and it isn't anywhere near as scientific as most here assume. It can serve a limited purpose but no where near the scope that so many here assume.

Mobil HM would be a very good choice but it seems that what you have been using has been getting the job done.
 
I use M1 5w-30 HM in winter with an HTHS of 3.4 and in the summer I use M1 10w-30 HM with an HTHS of 3.6. My subie runs smooth on these oils, the 10w-30 is A3 rated and has an awesome add pack.
 
On high mile cars such as mine (151k), does switching back and forth between 5W and 10W makes sense or not?. I live in TX and temperature rarely fall below 30F few days in winter.

Will 5W be 'easy' on my car engine (ES300)?.
 
hi I have 2006 toyota camry v6 1MZ-FE. It is 200,000 miles now. I like castrol syntec. It is the quality oil. I personally don't like mobil 1.

10K OCI.
 
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Considering the pretty pedestrian zinc and phosphorous levels, why are these oils only SL rated? Could they not perform well enough to be SM?
 
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