Preventing Battery Terminal Corrosion

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I would think dielectric grease would be OK as long as it's applied after the cables are clamped to the terminals.

I use those greasy felt washer things.
 
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Petroleum jelly a.k.a Vaseline, works like a charm.



I know lots of folks that use PetoJelly with good succuss. I prefer the D-Lube

I'd prefer dielectric grease over petroleum jelly due to it's ability to remain stable while exposed to the high temperature environment of the engine bay.

I use the felt washers on two of my cars and tried the CRC battery terminal spray on another.
 
An interesting sentence from the Nye Lubricants link I posted earlier:

"A custom-formulated, fluorinated conductive grease was recently developed by Nye for automotive battery lugs, to enhance conductivity over a wide temperature range."
 
I know it is not intuitive but when you smear the grease on the connection what it does is to prevent the oxidation of the surfaces which are NOT mating. It does NOT CAUSE them NOT to mate. Without the smothering of the grease, the non-mating surfaces are exposed to the air and that causes them to oxidize.
Then the oxidation starts spreading even on the mating surfaces.

You could put grease on the battery post and on the wire clamp. When you tighten the clamp, the grease is oozed out where the surfaces meet.

So, yes will have the contact and NO, the grease will not seep in there to break the contact.

I know, I know, I too used to think that putting grease will cause the circuit to break because normally the grease is used to keep the two surfaces from mating!

- Vikas
 
Originally Posted By: SubLGT
An interesting sentence from the Nye Lubricants link I posted earlier:

"A custom-formulated, fluorinated conductive grease was recently developed by Nye for automotive battery lugs, to enhance conductivity over a wide temperature range."


Is there a significant measurable difference in voltage drop using the conductive grease over the non-conductive grease? If so is it worth the additional increase in cost?
 
I've been using AZ battries for years and if i need to replace one i pick up a little pack of battery terminal grease at the check out cost about a buck and have never had a post corrode with this stuff and no voltage issues don't use the felt washers at all.
 
The 3oz tube of Permatex Dielectrical Tune-Up Grease, states on the back of the tube specific directions for "tune-ups"(spark plug boots) and "connectors and battery terminals"...#3-"coat both parts of terminal contact with Dielectric Grease"
 
For those of you who feel that conductive grease is necessary - copper anti-seize is conductive. However, it is messy to work with.
 
Even the so-called "conductive grease" has lot of resistance. Once again, there is no grease between the post and the clamp once it is tightened.
 
There are inexpensive, readily available, anti-oxidant and anti-corrosion greases that do not have the ultra high resistivity of dielectric greases. Why not use them, if you like to coat the post and connector before making the connection? In making an electrical connection, why would anyone want to use a product, such as dielectric grease, that is specially formulated to block electrical current?

One such example of a non-dielectric, anti-oxidant grease is Ox-Gard, manufactured by Gardner Bender, and widely available in hardware stores, in the electrical aisle. One small tube should last the average car owner decades.
 
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