2000 Ford Focus ZX3 manual oil/filter recommendations

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I just picked up a very nice private party 2000 Focus ZX3 5-speed for my daughter. It’s a one owner (Military guy) car with just under 41,000 miles. The car was shipped new to Germany and has what appears to be a good maintenance record with 3000-4000 miles dino oil changes.

I replaced the original Goodyear RS-A tires with Bridgestone G009’s and also replaced the front brake pads with WAGNER ThermoQuiet Brake Pads. The car looks and drives like new with no door dings, rust or burned paint. The clutch is nice and smooth and all else looks good. I dumped a can of seafoam into the gas tank on the first fillup. I’ll change the plugs when I change the oil/filter @ 42,500 miles

So now the oil question; I’m thinking 5W-30 Castrol Syntec or Mobil One. Any special oil filter? Any other issues I should know about these cars?

Thanks!
 
Zetec or SPI? In either case, any quality 5W-20 or 5W-30 will do fine. My son has a 2002 Zetec with 100,000 miles. It has been on many oils....not much difference in noise, but MPG and butt dyno were better with 0W-20, 5W-20 over the 5W-30's and Castrol GC 0W-30.

The Motorcraft filters work great and are reasonably priced. The FL2005 for the Zetec, FL400S for the SPI. Wix and Purolator also get good reviews here.
 
The owners manual calls for 5w-30 and MC FL2005.
That's the filter I'm using in my ZX3 (high quality filter and a bargain if purchased at Walmart), but for an oil I stick with 0w-30 GC and 12K mi oil change intervals (mostly freeway driving).
BTW all pre-Duratec ZX3's were coming equiped with the Zetec only.

Issues: minor in essence but numerous recalls and the the fuel pump replacement.
FoMoCo runs an extended 100K mile with no time limits warranty for the early Focuses.
Go to your local dealer and make them run your car's VIN for any outstanding recalls.
Regarding the fuel pump, the dealer will change it under the above mentioned warranty, no questions asked, if you make a general complaint about engine hesitation, particularly during the right turns.
The fuel pump is a widespread issue and needs to be taken care of even if your car still has no symptoms, yet.

[ August 22, 2006, 02:27 AM: Message edited by: avette ]
 
I believe Ford back spec 'd the 2000 Zetec to use 5W-20. It runs extremely well on 0W-20 or 5W-20. A 5W-30 near the lower to mid viscosity range is also a-OK. GC IMO is just to thick for the Zetec. We lost noticeable MPG and butt dyno when using the green elixir. Great oil, just not for this application.
 
I'm not gonna get into the 5w-20 vs the world discussion.
From my experience, I couldn't detect any significant differences in mileage or power delivery while running on 5w-20 Motorcraft from a store or a bulk 5w-20 from the dealer.
Other oils I've tried: 5w-30 Chevron, 10w-30 Havoline, 10w-30/5w-30 Redline, and now 0w-30 GC.
All those oils are totally safe for The extended ones is a different topic.
In my prevous post I wasn't clear enough regarding the 100K warranty.
It applies to the fuel pump only.
Recalls by definition are free of any mileage/time limitations.

[ August 22, 2006, 02:49 AM: Message edited by: avette ]
 
You'll be very happy with 0-20,5-20, or 5-30.
Your engine will run great with these viscosities.
Be careful about your oil filter.
The engine calls for a Motorcraft FL2005, which is double valved for anti-drainback. Many aftermarket ones are single valved, or cruddy quality dual valves. The engine may knock on start up, and the top end will be starved for oil on every start up.
These Motorcraft filters are very good, so stock up on them if they are hard to come by.
 
I had a 2000 Focus that I used Motorcraft 5W=30 for the first 40000 miles.. I changed it at 3000 to 4000 mile intervals. I then switched to Motorcraft 5W-20 Semi-Synth Blend and soon developed a Valve cover gasket leak right above the exhaust manifold.. In those day the 5W-30 was not a blend, but is now.. If it was mine I would stay with whatever SM rated 5W-30 dino was on sale. Also the engine was much quieter on the thicker stuff.. Another vote here for the FL-2005s filter.
 
Wow, great info and thanks for the replies. The fuel pump was replaced earlier this year. I see Wal-Mart has the FL2005 filters and I’ll purchase several this afternoon. I’d love to run the same 5W-20 Castrol Syntec as I run in my Honda’s if that is safe. That makes it easy for me to ‘stock’ only one oil. I see the 2000 model Zetec calls for 5W-30, but I believe that was before 5W-20 was available.

I’m thinking it would be a good idea to run up to a Ford dealer and have them check the VIN for any other recalls. Anyway, it seems like a great little car. I’m going to have the A/C serviced tomorrow and I will wait till I hit 42,500 for the oil change and new plugs that I have already purchased.

I guess that only leaves the cooling system as an open issue. When should I flush it, 60,000 miles or sooner?

Thanks again for the replies.
 
I did a total flush of the cooling system at about 45000 miles.. I would do it as soon as possible as the car is 6+ years old.
 
Has it been flushed before?
If not then it's already overdue.
The 2000 ZX3 comes with the old type, green in color, non-longlife coolant which generally needs to be changed every 3 years or 30K miles.
I would replace with the long-life Valvoline Zerex G-05 (real good stuff) that should be available at your local NAPA, and probably Pepboys.
If you can't find it at the local autoparts stores you can always purchase it at your local Ford dealership (at the higher price of course) in the form of Motorcraft Premium Gold coolant which is exactly the same thing as G-05.
You'll have to flush your cooling system real well though to get rid of the remaining old green coolant.
 
quote:

Originally posted by JBrian:
I’d love to run the same 5W-20 Castrol Syntec as I run in my Honda’s if that is safe. That makes it easy for me to ‘stock’ only one oil.

That'll work. Stock up and be happy
grin.gif
 
Definitely flush that coolant ASAP. I had a 2001 Focus that I ran 100K without a flush and ended up replacing the thermostat housing and heater core. I could have saved myself a lot of trouble if I had just flushed the coolant on a timely basis.
 
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