Grease for Ford

[Trav]

I am rebuilding the front end on my Expedition after a broken torsion bar forced me to remove the lower control arms.
Everything except the pitman arm is being replaced with Moog parts with grease fittings, the pitman arm is fine but needs grease also, I will inject it through a needle adapter from below.

I am replacing CV joint boots also with Rockford Duraboots and the U joints.

Here are the questions...
The boots come with green CV joint grease, the boots are the best quality but I have no idea what the grease is or who makes it.
Is it better just to use Redline CV2 or use the thinner green stuff that came with the boots better because its thinner?

For the front end parts I have 4 greases here which one do you think is the most durable
In this relatively heavy application, ball joint failure is well know with these.
I have concerns about using anything with moly in U joints, I have always used Mobil 1 but Redline claims the red moly is fine for this application also.

Redline CV2
Valvoline synthetic w/moly
Mobil 1 red synthetic
Amsoil S2000

Is there anything better than these that will hold up better in NE winters over 10k between re greasing.

 

[OVERKILL]

The M1 grease has been excellent in both our 2000 and 2002 Expeditions.

 

[Quest]

I, for one, doesn't fall for any fancy CV greases, for I've been rebuilding/repacking CV since 1990s, and never have I experienced any grease-related failures of any sort on all CV joints so far.

If the package comes with CV grease (either black(with MoS2 type), or green/cyan coloured type), I would use it w/o hesitation.

My 2c's worth.

Q.

 

[demarpaint]

I was not happy at all with the Amsoil S2000 grease,

it seperated more than any grease I've ever used. I was told it could have been a bad batch? But..........

Their NLGI #1 grease is very good, I'm currently using that for king pins, and front end parts.

Having said that of the choices you listed I'd use the RL grease.

 

[Pablo]

What grease type and NLGI grade do the CV joints call for?

There are other Amsoil greases as well, one might actually be better for this application than the high speed racing grease. I've never actually seen of any of the Amsoil greases separating - I have some open tubes of S2000 over 8 years old - no separation. (I have had M1 grease separate)

 

[Trav]

No idea Pablo they list just a ford part number.
I pretty much decided on CV2 for the CV joints but the rest is still in question,tie rods,ball joints,u joints.
I really want these parts to last,doing lower joints on this thing is a major PITA.

My M1 separated but the Amsoil S2000 is fine,no separation and stable,i love the stuff for wheel bearings.

 

[Pablo]

For those I would choose the new off road grease - GPOR2.

Amsoil Grease choices

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Pablo
I have some open tubes of S2000 over 8 years old - no separation. (I have had M1 grease separate)


I guess I'm the only person who had Amsoil grease seperate. Oh well.

Mobil 1 grease seperated too which was why I made the switch.

The NLGI #1 grease was perfect, go figure!

 

[Trav]

Thanks Pablo that looks like some great stuff.
Would the GL1 be better in this vehicle as it is primarily a New England winter driver with only occasional summer use?

Quote:
I guess I'm the only person who had Amsoil grease seperate. Oh well. Mobil 1 grease seperated too which was why I made the switch.

The NLGI #1 grease was perfect, go figure


Maybe like Gary Allen said a batch that was maybe not up to snuff or something.Mine is hanging in there since last summer with pressure still on the gun.
I kept the Mobil 1 for the snow blower and Kabota tractor in an old gun out in the shed because it leaked all over my garage floor.
The S2000 is some smooth stuff for wheel bearings.

 

[demarpaint]

I used the S2000 for wheel bearings, that was what I bought it for. I'm due for a tire rotation, and I think it would be best if I clean it out and repack them with somethng else.

The Amsoil S2000 did exactly what you said the M1 grease did. I used the M1 grease for many years and had some dripping from the gun but nothing like this. I kept the pressure off the gun with the S2000 too. I never did with the M1.

It could have been a fluke, and I should have taken it up with Amsoil and asked for a replacement tube. I didn't, so it's my bad.

I bought the grease about 2 years ago, for my stash, and used it late winter of this year IIRC. IMO that really shouldn't make any difference at all though.

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Thanks Pablo that looks like some great stuff.
Would the GL1 be better in this vehicle as it is primarily a New England winter driver with only occasional summer use?


Even in NE, #2 for the items you listed will be fine.

 

[Johnny]

For you suspension parts I would use the grease that Pablo recommended. That is a very good grease. And stick with the NLGI #2.

 

[Ben99GT]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Here are the questions...
I have concerns about using anything with moly in U joints, I have always used Mobil 1 but Redline claims the red moly is fine for this application also.

Redline CV2
Valvoline synthetic w/moly
Mobil 1 red synthetic
Amsoil S2000


I'm running Redline CV-2 in my F150's upper/lower ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, and u-joints. The red moly in RL is not MoS2, it's fine for needle bearings. Virtually nonexistent oil bleed out makes it great for the ball joints too.