Mobil 1 Racing 0w30 HTHS number

[dparm]

Mobil 1 Racing 0w30 supposedly has HTHS of only 3.3. That seems wrong to me. I would have expected it to be much better. Even [German] Castrol Syntec 0w30, a non-race oil, has a HTHS of 3.5. Motul 300V 5w30 is 3.61, and that's a race oil marketed at street use.

Thoughts?

 

[Audi Junkie]

I'd expect it to be lower, like 2.9cP.

 

[dparm]

When I read it on the PDS I was surprised. Doesn't this seem low compared to what else is out there? It is somewhat of an apples-oranges comparison since we're talking a race oil, but I would expect race motors to need extremely high HTHS figures. No?

 

[flatlandtacoma]

Originally Posted By: dparm
I would expect race motors to need extremely high HTHS figures. No?


No. "Race oil" usually means low drag, low parasitic losses.

 

[buster]

Lower the HT/HS the more power. Why would you expect it to be more? The original had a HT/HS of only 2.99. They design the oil to be that way.

 

[dparm]

At what point does it become "too low" for street use? According to EM, the only reason they advise against it for street use is because of the high ZDDP (cat fouling). I'm not terribly concerned with that.

 

[dparm]

Also, based on the KV specs, this appears to be a heavy 0w30 (like GC). The KV @ 100 is 11.5; SAE J300 specifies the range as 9.3-12.49.

 

[dparm]

Resurrecting this. Did a bit of math if I were to mix the 0w30 and 0w50.

Mix/KV @ 100C/KV @ 40C/HTHS

50:50 Mobil 1 Racing 0w30 & 0w50/ 14.0/ 79.3/ 3.68
60:40 Mobil 1 Racing 0w30 & 0w50/ 13.5/ 75.8/ 3.6
70:30 Mobil 1 Racing 0w30 & 0w50/ 12.9/ 72.5/ 3.52/


The 60:40 mix actually looks almost identical to the street 0w40 but with a touch lower HTHS. They claim the Racing oils are a lot more shear stable; I know that the street 0w40 shears pretty fast in some cars. It's likely a PAO-heavy mix because of the -65F pour point.

Zinc = 1850ppm, Phosphorous = 1750ppm
(street 0w40 is 1000ppm, 1100ppm, respectively)

The MSDS also lists "ORGANO MOLY-SULFUR COMPLEX" at
Thoughts? Should I be concerned about the higher concentrations of ZDDP?

 

[A_Harman]

The knock against high zddp levels is phosphorous poisoning your catalytic converters. This can be true if you have an oil consumption problem. (If you do a lot of track days, your cat's may already be burned out anyway. I know somebody that has had problems with that.)

1750 is a much higher zddp concentration than old API spec oils, which peaked at 1200 ppm P in SH oils. Since then, API has been cutting max allowable P to 1000, and now 800. I have read some references that high zddp levels of >1800 can cause corrosion of some cam materials.

If your car has a roller-follower valvetrain, I don't see a need for such high zddp. 1000ppm should be fine.

 

[dparm]

Yes, I had read that anything over 1800 is considered excessive and actually becomes damaging.

 

[Mitch Alsup]

Originally Posted By: dparm
Yes, I had read that anything over 1800 is considered excessive and actually becomes damaging.


The number I saw was anything over 1400 can lead to deposits.

 

[dparm]

Might be true as well. I've never really seen any street oil above 1100-1200.

 

[dailydriver]

Yeah, that is my worry about ultra-high ZDDP levels, NOT poisoning the meows.

 

[A_Harman]

Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Yeah, that is my worry about ultra-high ZDDP levels, NOT poisoning the meows.

Hey, there's a guy that's using RL in his Z28!
How does it work for you?

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Yeah, that is my worry about ultra-high ZDDP levels, NOT poisoning the meows.

Hey, there's a guy that's using RL in his Z28!
How does it work for you?


Just fine, although I do not have any UOAs just yet. (I don't put quite as much faith in them as the be-all, end all of which oil is 'perfect' for a given engine like many/most do on here. Besides, I can almost do a complete RL/EaO change for the price of one good, accurate UOA!

)

I usually mix 50% 5W-30 and 50% 10W-40 for the late spring/summer/early fall, and just use straight 5W-30 for the winter.

 

[A_Harman]

I've been running M1 5w30 in mine since new, and am planning to switch to either M1 HM 10w30 or RL 5w30. At 152k miles, it is beginning to show some age. The oil gets dark more quickly after an oil change, and I am hearing a tick in the engine after my last track day at Road Atlanta. Hopefully the tick is a sticky lifter and will go away with a higher detergent oil.

My engine has always had a lot of piston slap until the coolant gets up to temp. How is yours for noise on a cold start?

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman
I've been running M1 5w30 in mine since new, and am planning to switch to either M1 HM 10w30 or RL 5w30. At 152k miles, it is beginning to show some age. The oil gets dark more quickly after an oil change, and I am hearing a tick in the engine after my last track day at Road Atlanta. Hopefully the tick is a sticky lifter and will go away with a higher detergent oil.

My engine has always had a lot of piston slap until the coolant gets up to temp. How is yours for noise on a cold start?



It sounds like an 80 year old, ill-maintained, diesel engine on a I even pulled out the 160* deal, and put the stock temp (195*??) thermostat back in to help it warm up, and keep some heat in the oil.

BUT, that has not stopped it from performing to the max once it is warmed up (i.e.; lapping days, HPDEs, autocrosses, low 12 second quarter miles @ 114 mph, 32 mpg on the highway in 6th gear, etc.).

 

[A_Harman]

Yep, same as mine...