2010 Mazda 3 7500 OCI too much?

[Thermo1223]

Brand new car, brand new game plan.

The dealer pushes every 5000 miles but with my wife's driving 100 miles a day with 50% of those always highway I am staring to think the longer OCI in manual may be better.

Dealer uses Castrol 5w20, I plan on switching to AFE 0w20 mostly because when she is at work in the dead of winter the car will be outside. Rabbit turned in a 1F temp the one morning and she commented on how sluggish it was getting to the highway. It had synthetic in it so I attribute that to the transmission. Now that the Rabbit is gone and we got a new car, new plan.

I have a funny feeling it will be a very cold & long winter in these parts again haha. That as it may be I want the best cold start protection. I am even considering switching the Forester over to a 0w30 for my short trips to work.

SS in the manual is every 5k miles, normal is 7.5k for the 3.

If I am running a good synthetic I can't see why 7.5k isn't attainable. What say ye BITOG?

 

[saberz]

Follow the manual. Highway is a lot easier than city, so I think if you went like 7k using a good synthetic you should be fine. Any higher i'd def recommend getting a UOA so you don't go in blind and have problems down the road.

 

[meangreen01]

I run about 7k in our MZ6. Maintenance schedule for OC's is the same as your 3. I've run M1 and PP and haven't had any problems.

I wouldn't be as comfortable going that long on dino, though. Prolly 5k.

 

[Brons2]

Do a UOA at 5000 miles and see how it's holding up. If it looks good, go 7500.

 

[FZ1]

Run the SS achedule for at least the warranty period. Let the dealer do the changes, to document warranty compliance.

 

[beast3300]

Originally Posted By: FZ1
Run the SS achedule for at least the warranty period. Let the dealer do the changes, to document warranty compliance.


X2

 

[sangyup81]

Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Brand new car, brand new game plan.

The dealer pushes every 5000 miles but with my wife's driving 100 miles a day with 50% of those always highway I am staring to think the longer OCI in manual may be better.

Dealer uses Castrol 5w20, I plan on switching to AFE 0w20 mostly because when she is at work in the dead of winter the car will be outside. Rabbit turned in a 1F temp the one morning and she commented on how sluggish it was getting to the highway. It had synthetic in it so I attribute that to the transmission. Now that the Rabbit is gone and we got a new car, new plan.

I have a funny feeling it will be a very cold & long winter in these parts again haha. That as it may be I want the best cold start protection. I am even considering switching the Forester over to a 0w30 for my short trips to work.

SS in the manual is every 5k miles, normal is 7.5k for the 3.

If I am running a good synthetic I can't see why 7.5k isn't attainable. What say ye BITOG?

I like your plan, just don't go over 7.5k

 

[Thermo1223]

Originally Posted By: FZ1
Run the SS achedule for at least the warranty period. Let the dealer do the changes, to document warranty compliance.


They still are...with my oil just not SS.

I believe I was quoted around $15 for filter & labor.

 

[Billy_D]

Follow the manual while the car is still under warranty.

 

[FZ1]

Good. Staying in warranty compliance and promoting dealer goodwill to let them do all the work. $15 filter and labor is a steal of a deal. Good for you.

 

[mpvue]

I was going to go the 7500 route in our Mazda5, but it's our only car; when I drive it, it's hwy, but when my wife has it, it's all local errands, so w/ this mix, I'm staying w/ the 5K changes. 5W20 dino at my local mechanic near my job. they use wolf's head I believe.

 

[Steve S]

Originally Posted By: beast3300
Originally Posted By: FZ1
Run the SS achedule for at least the warranty period. Let the dealer do the changes, to document warranty compliance.


X2
Why? Though I would follow the mfg recommended oil change interval. severe with dino ond the max with syn oil.

 

[FZ1]

Self explanatory,ain't it?