When do you replace your engine mounts?

[stranger706]

Just passed 100K miles in the Mazda 3. All original engine mounts. Its running smoother than ever.

Do you replace them at a set time or wait until one starts to give you trouble?

A set of 3 new OEM mounts for the Mazda totals about $180 + shipping.

I don't want to do this if its not needed.

 

[Eddie]

Why fix something if it is working fine?

 

[rpn453]

You shouldn't need to change the mounts unless there's a noticeable problem. My engine became very floppy when the front mount broke. I'm surprised you've made 100k miles with all the original mounts! The transmission mount (side mount, relative to engine) is so flimsy that the front mount sees a lot of stress. Feel the rubber underside of the front mount (passenger side) for tears and black oily fluid to check it. I changed my side mount shortly after having the front mount replaced under warranty.

If you want to upgrade the mounts to reduce wheel hop or engine motion, or to reduce stress on the delicate front mount, I'd recommend either a CP-E (Custom Performance Engineering) side mount or a Mazdaspeed3 side mount. The Mazdaspeed3 mount is just a stiffer version of the regular Mazda3 mount, and is probably the better choice for most drivers. The CP-E will cause vibrations under higher engine loads at low revs - like idling with the A/C on, or accelerating from a low speed in 2nd gear - but it holds the engine very well and still vibrates less than any other performance mounts available. It's smooth under normal idling and cruising.

 

[stranger706]

Yes I'm aware of the "issues" people have had with Mazda engine mounts. It seems it is more of a problem on cars with manual transmission, as the engine mounts see more ON/OFF type of load put on them during shifting. I have the 5 speed auto, and spend most of my time in 5th gear, on the interstate with CC on. I don't do any autocross or drag strip type driving. The combinaion of all that is probably why mine are lasting so long.

I was just wondering what people thought about this subject in general.

 

[rpn453]

Originally Posted By: stranger706
Yes I'm aware of the "issues" people have had with Mazda engine mounts. It seems it is more of a problem on cars with manual transmission, as the engine mounts see more ON/OFF type of load put on them during shifting.


Probably, but not always. My buddy's wife's mount broke a couple of years before mine did, and she has an automatic and a less aggressive driving style. Neither of them noticed any effects; he just noticed the black oil on the garage floor one day.

 

[440Magnum]

They'll let you know when they need replacing ;-)

There's no danger- modern engine mounts won't let the engine drop out when they fail- the engine is securely retained even with the rubber parts torn- it just moves around and makes loud "clunk" sounds.

 

[JHZR2]

On the diesels, it is every 100k or so, when they start to collapse under the weight and vibration.

On gassers? Never unless it makes sense because things are coming apart, or they break/are needed.

 

[WishIhadatruck]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. If you knew for a fact that they would all go bad at 101,000 miles then sure, change them but what if they never go bad? I've had a few vehicles with more miles than yours and never had to change them including the car that I drove until 212k miles.

 

[MNgopher]

Jeep Cherokees with the 4.0 let you know by having the mechanical cooling fan make "gentle" contact with your newly installed 3-core radiator. Heh... Ask me how I know... Pretty common on Cherokee's to need to replace the engine and tranny mounts. Nice aftermarket ones are readily avaiable...

 

[Merkava_4]

These days the engine/transmission mounts are so soft, they're more like shocks than mounts. If you watch the engine move while somebody is in the driver's seat switching back and forth from park-drive-reverse while having their foot on the brake, you'll see the excessive movement of the engine if the front mount is broken. On my Buick, I used to get a thud noise whenever I made a sharp left turn or by driving over drainage dips in parking lots. I took the car to a frame and wheel shop because I suspected it of having a suspension problem. I was really surprised when they told me I needed new engine and transmission mounts.

 

[mechtech2]

Give them a visual check.
Then give it a moderate 'Brake torque' with the tranny in forward and reverse, and look for excess movement.
You don't need to do this test every day!
MMs and TMs are usually good for the life of the car, and more.

 

[onion]

Depends on the vehicle- some are more troublesome than others. But motor mounts are generally a fix-as-fail part. I wouldn't replace them as preventative maintenance unless it was a vehicle with known motor mount problems and severe consequences if one were to fail. Can't think of any vehicle that meets both criteria.

 

[CBR.worm]

The only vehicles I have had to do Motor mounts on where my Chrysler minivans. My other (Japanese) vehicles made it beyond 200k with OE parts.

 

[demarpaint]

I'm from the if it ain't broke don't fix it camp. I'd leave well enough alone unless it becomes a problem.

 

[scurvy]

Engine mounts typically are not changed as maintenance, only once they have failed. Unless you have reason to think they are bad, drive more / worry less.

 

[meep]

I've seen those electronically modulated mounts on honda products go pretty early a time or two, but they must have changed the design b/c that was a few years back and I never see/hear of it now.

Those chrysler minivan mounts were HUGE with lots of play and open space, almost like hanging the bolt in a spider web. Served their purpose though, those vans are very smooth and quiet.

I recall replacing the mounts on my old '57 chevy in the late '80's. rubber was GONE.... nearly metal on metal. that's the only car I swapped mounts on...

M

 

[PandaBear]

You'll know when they are bad, the whole front will rattle including the bumper cover and the fender during idle.

 

[thrace]

Replace mine when they break. Most of mine never did. Taurus, never broke. Chrysler minivan, sagged, did not break.
Honda Odyssey. 3 out of 5 visibly broken. The other two, not sure. Bad clunking. Engine moves over an inch and a quarter when brake torqed in drive and reverse. Expensive to replace too. Honda Odyssey, this is getting ridiculous. Stuff breaks too often. Transmission, engine mounts, doors, tailgate struts. What next?

 

[Vikas]

What next? Ignition coil, rear wheel bearings, brake light switch, clock light, instrument panel controller, tail light, outer ball joint, catalytic converter...

I don't think you wanted answer to your question

 

[BBuzecky]

What year Honda Odyssey?