1992 Corolla 4AEF Non-Interference Engine

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1) If the engine is non-interference, could I just roll the dice and drive it more than 80k miles before changing the TB? The only downside is that the tow truck cost may be high. What's the easier way to check the TB? The TB cover has 4 bolts and one of them is way in the back, actually requiring the engine mount to be removed to get to. Is there an easier way.

After seeing how well my Accord TB look at 110k miles I am not in the hurry to change the Corolla TB, which also have 110k miles but had TB changed @ 54k miles.

2) Should I change the WP too? It seems that WP should last a long time and should cost 2 hrs to change if done in conjunction with TB. I like to not have to spend much more money on this car.

3) Beside discomfort, is there a reason to change out struts/shocks that are old and possibly shot? Gas mileage is still very good in the mid to high 30s.
 
Had a 1991 Toyota Corolla from about 70k miles to 130k miles. Never did a timing belt.

Sold it to a buddy, who went to nearly 250k miles on it. I don't think he ever did a timing belt on it.

A good chunk of that mileage was highway miles, though.
 
I have a 7AFE - you can get the timing cover/s off without removing the passenger side engine mount.

I'm in somewhat of an agreement that the 60,000 mile interval recommended by Toyota and many manufacturers of older models is WAY too conservative. My belt looked brand new when I replaced it and I'm now considering checking at 60,000 miles and then at 100,000 miles since these engines are non-interference.

Since the water pump is accessible without removing the timing belt, I recommend not preventatively replacing it each time the belt is done.

As far as struts, if one or more is completely blown, it can possibly lead to loss of vehicle control in an emergency stop or steering maneuver.
 
to OP:

RE: Timing belt: the consequence is yours for the taking if you choose not to follow manufacturer's recommended timing belt change interval. A blown interference engine on your Accord shall result.

For non-interference type engine, you can choose to ignore it anyway you want it. Again, the consequence is all yours for the taking whether you like it or not.



RE: shocks/struts: you're risking your life and/or others if your shocks/struts are worn and cannot stop your car in a safe manner. Same goes with emergency maneouvering with worn shocks/struts.


Q.
 
Actually, the owner manual says only to check. It has no change interval. Online sources say change every 60k. I think Haynes Service Manual also goes by the 60k miles interval.
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
to OP:

RE: Timing belt: the consequence is yours for the taking if you choose not to follow manufacturer's recommended timing belt change interval. A blown interference engine on your Accord shall result.

For non-interference type engine, you can choose to ignore it anyway you want it. Again, the consequence is all yours for the taking whether you like it or not.



RE: shocks/struts: you're risking your life and/or others if your shocks/struts are worn and cannot stop your car in a safe manner. Same goes with emergency maneouvering with worn shocks/struts.


Q.


92 Corolla has non-interference engine. It also has new front brake pads/rotors/calipers and rear shoes replaced within the last month. The rear drums were turned/re-surface. The tires are also brand new and the car stops very fast. I am not worry about stopping it. But I know the car is bouncy because the previous owners may be on the larger side of the scale. It turns and steer fine. I had a lot of work done to the car lately such as axles, output shaft seals, alternator, starter motor, plugs/wires/distributor so this car is very safe. Just the TB and shocks/strut are old.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
The manual of my 1994 Corolla clearly states to change the timing belt at 60,000 mile intervals.


Trust me, I was surprise too.
 
If it doesn't drive the water pump, you can get 100K out of one, driving the water pump I wouldn't go over 60K. It's a peace of mind thing-last time I changed one was on an '88 Horizon 2.2-my brother bought it as a beater car-the original one failed at 100,350 miles, as he was driving it over to have me work on it, had to tow it the last 2 miles with a tow strap! Fortunately non-interference.
 
Sometime a beater can cost some money to have that piece of mind. The engine and transmission are top-notch and I hate to see it goes. The body is also in excellent shape as well as the paint. But 19 years is still 19 years and older shock/strut don't last as long as newer one. I feel confident my 02 Accord shock/strut will be in better shape with 20 years than my 92 Corolla.
 
Originally Posted By: M1Accord


It also has new front brake pads/rotors/calipers and rear shoes replaced within the last month. The rear drums were turned/re-surface. The tires are also brand new and the car stops very fast. I am not worry about stopping it. But I know the car is bouncy because the previous owners may be on the larger side of the scale. It turns and steer fine. Just the TB and shocks/strut are old.


Hi,

Again, it's your money and safety is your paramount, then consider having your struts replaced.

I've been working/servicing and my family owned some used cars in the past 20+yrs and I always replace shocks/struts even though it may seem stable on dry road with fresh new tires, new brake calipers, etc. It's during emergency maneouvres and wet/slick road conditions where the difference (between old/worn struts/shocks and fresh new ones) becomes apparent.

Again, my 2c's worth.

Q.
 
Non-interference. I took mine to 80K intervals, not 60K. I had a 1994 4A-FE in a Prizm, so essentially the same thing. That means you could probably hold off until 135-140K give or take and do it again at 220.

If it breaks, it will leave you stranded, that's it. I'd do the waterpump when you do the belt change around 220K miles. Mine was needed right around then, so since a lot of the labor is the same, you might as well have it done on the 2nd or 3rd timing belt change depending on the interval you choose.
 
You could probably cut a 1 inch inspection hole in your TB cover. Of paramount interest is if you see oil on the belt it shortens its life way down. Also you'll see the edges of the belt and if one side is rubbing etc there's a problem.

As said above, struts keep your tires touching the road, brakes won't matter if the wheels are hopping. Since you live in DC where the driving is insane I would keep things in tip top shape.
 
I like the cut the cover idea and I think as long as I use super glue to get it back in place I should have to worry about it. They should have made a detachable section for people to inspect. It is truly a poor design to make people taking off their engine mount and possess various socket and wrench to get to the last bolt. Since it is a non-interference engine, they should have made it with timing chain.
 
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You can wait till it snap, and pay more on towing and any possible damage (i.e. impact on the TB cover, belt jamming the crank pulley, etc). I don't think they are fatal but I would probably change it 120KM at least just to be safe.

WP is driven by an accessory belt but it is kind of annoying to change, so I'd probably change it every 120KM as well just to make life easier (mine still works fine at 120KM when I change it out).

Worn strut/shocks can increase brake distance due to increased weight transfer, or fish tail if you turn when braking in bad weather. If it is slightly worn I'd leave it at that, but if it is affecting the way the car drives, I'd change them.
 
The 4AFE is a non-interference engine. Whenever you do the belt there are several things you should do at the same time(if you want to do it right and avoid having to go back into it). If you want to patch it disregard my advice.
1. You will need a valve-cover gasket and the three hold-down grommets. Make sure you remove the aluminum half-moon seal at the front of the engine and re-seal with rtv.
2.You will need a camshaft seal and a front crank seal. They are easy to replace and no doubt will be hard & seeping oil.
3. If the tensioner for the t-belt is noisey at all replace it while you are in there.
4. The w-pumps on the 4AFE engines would last many miles. If there is any weeping from the weep hole on the pump I would go ahead and change it while you are there. They are not that expensive. The undisputed best quality pump is the Aisin pump . It was OE equipment on these cars. It came with the front & rear housing and the o-rings you will need.
5. Buy a top-quality t-belt from someone like NAPA or Carquest. There are low-ball junk belts out there that are not made from HSN rubber. They won't last 50K miles.
6. Go ahead and replace the accessory drive belts while you are there. There are three:1. P/S belt,2.Alt. belt,3. A/C belt
Latly, the t-belts on the 4AFE will not jast as long as the Honda belts. The 4AFE used a flat-cogged belt that was thinner and less durable. Honda made theirs much stouter because they had longer reccommended service intervals and they were valve-benders. The older Corollas were the best econobox ever made. Well serviced ones will run 400,000 miles with little more than fluids,filters,belts. If I had to make my living just waiting on them to die I would starve to death.
 
Old style square toothed timing belts do not last as long as the modern rounded toothed versions.
80k is a good long life for an old style one. Plus, it is almost 20 years old!
Gather parts and do this before it bites you at an inopportune time.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Old style square toothed timing belts do not last as long as the modern rounded toothed versions.
80k is a good long life for an old style one. Plus, it is almost 20 years old!
Gather parts and do this before it bites you at an inopportune time.


This current belt has been in since 54k miles so it's 60k miles and 4-5 years time wise. I'll change it next year when I do the shock/strut, which will be performance part. That's 3 months from now.
 
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