I've read a ton on here about using a HDEO instead of a motorcycle specific oil. Is this always ok to do? My manual calls for 10w-40...would either Rotella 5 or 15w-40 be ok to use instead? I'm guessing it's the same as a car where I'd be better off using the full syn 5w-40?
HDEO in my bike
- Thread starter Unearthed
- Start date
- Status
Yes, it will be fine. Either one will do - but both are very good oils. I guess if you ride in REALLY cold weather the 5-40 would be preferable. But until you get down to 30-deg. F or colder you won't have a problem with the 15w40 anyway.
I've used them (HDEO's) as well as many others on here for years - long before I ever came to BITOG. Millions and Millions of miles have been logged on HDEO's so there's no reason for concern here.
Save your money instead of purchasing dealership motorcycle-specific oils and enjoy the benefits of a better oil at the same time.
I've used them (HDEO's) as well as many others on here for years - long before I ever came to BITOG. Millions and Millions of miles have been logged on HDEO's so there's no reason for concern here.
Save your money instead of purchasing dealership motorcycle-specific oils and enjoy the benefits of a better oil at the same time.
Look closely at the backside of a container of Rotella and you will see the JASO MA motorcycle rating.
Rotella is a favorite of many, many, motorcycle owners.
I've been using it for many years in all manner of motorcycles and am happy with it.
Rotella is a favorite of many, many, motorcycle owners.
I've been using it for many years in all manner of motorcycles and am happy with it.
15W40 is only good down to about 30 degrees F on most motorcycles unless your starter and battery is very strong. I ride down even below zero and trust me 15W40 is not what you want in Winter. If you don't ride winter it's fine. Also if you have a Tractor Supply store nearby they should have Rotella T5 Semi synthetic in 10W40. Not MA rated, but works great in a motorcycle.
Quote:
I ride down even below zero
Holy mackerel, the wind chill must be 100 below!!
I ride down even below zero
dnewton3
Staff member
I believe the new T6 actaully meets the MA spec; you could use that.
But most of us that use good ol' dino HDEO have fantastic results with 15w-40. Plenty of UOAs to prove it as well.
But most of us that use good ol' dino HDEO have fantastic results with 15w-40. Plenty of UOAs to prove it as well.
I use the Shell Rotella synthetic in my Yamaha V Star 650 as well as our 4 atvs.....three Hondas and one Yamaha.
Won't use anything else!
Won't use anything else!
you could blend the t6 and the 15w40 50/50 60/40, whatever.
I was using Rotella T5 5/40 and loved it in all my bikes, but when the zinc and others were reduced in vertualy all our oils, like in the T6 shell, the shifting suffered. Most all non-energy conserving oils are useable in bikes, but I need smooth shifting. Lately I have been using high mileage 10-40 dino oils with from 2 to 4 oz's of ZDDPlus and it works great. I seldom leave oils in for more than 2k, except in my Concours14. I just changed it at 3100 miles and it was feeling still good at shifting. I don't rev the 14 nearly as hard as my liter bikes...They do see the track a few times a year also...
Originally Posted By: ddtmoto
I don't rev the 14 nearly as hard as my liter bikes...They do see the track a few times a year also...
The concourse 14 has to be good for higher revs that the TL1000, isn't it? I thought the TL was a v-twin.
To the OP, I use Rotella 15w-40 on my current K1200S, which is under warranty and on my Pit bike (a 125cc thumper) which I race about bi-weekly during the summer months - so I guess I'm putting my money where my mouth is. My previous Triumph Sprint ST and my previous Yamaha FJ1200 used it for many miles too. The 15w-40 will shear less than the 5w-40 Synth and is in my books a better choice unless you're doing plenty of starts around freezing.
I don't rev the 14 nearly as hard as my liter bikes...They do see the track a few times a year also...
The concourse 14 has to be good for higher revs that the TL1000, isn't it? I thought the TL was a v-twin.
To the OP, I use Rotella 15w-40 on my current K1200S, which is under warranty and on my Pit bike (a 125cc thumper) which I race about bi-weekly during the summer months - so I guess I'm putting my money where my mouth is. My previous Triumph Sprint ST and my previous Yamaha FJ1200 used it for many miles too. The 15w-40 will shear less than the 5w-40 Synth and is in my books a better choice unless you're doing plenty of starts around freezing.
Oh sure the 14 can rev higher, but it's just not required, lots of low and mid range for the street. The TL gets to the track and is run much harder than the sport tourer. Even on the street this twin likes RPM's... The added zddplus has them all shifting like butta'... so nearly any 10-40 oil is good now.
Not sure about adding ZDDP. I'd hesitate on account of the catalytic converter. Your concours has one too, so what are your thoughts on that?
fyi
Quote:
Here are the differences between diesel engine oil and gasoline engine oil. In a modern diesel engine there is substantial exhaust soot contamination that the engine oil must contend with. Diesel oil is designed with much higher levels of detergency and dispersency to fight the soot contamination. Like ZDDP anti-wear chemistry, detergents are a surface active chemistry and compete directly for space on metal surfaces, such as the cam lobe and lifter face. So, in practice, the effective level of Zinc anti-wear is a bit lower than what we expect it to be based solely on chemical analysis. Additionally, the ZDDP that is generally used in diesel formulas is primary ZDDP (which activates at higher engine temperatures) since a diesel engine runs predominantly at operating temperature. In a gasoline engine, we must have both primary and secondary ZDDP (which activates at lower temperatures) since the engine will experience a significant number of cold starts. Also, the viscosity modifier polymers that are used in multi-viscosity engine oil to prevent viscosity loss at operating temperature (to protect the bearings) are different for diesel oil and gasoline oil. Diesels operate at essentially the same rpm all day long and need polymers that are shear stable to protect the bearings. Gasoline engines experience many large ranges of rpm during operation and require polymers that have both shear stability and thickening efficiency capability to protect the bearings.
Quote:
Here are the differences between diesel engine oil and gasoline engine oil. In a modern diesel engine there is substantial exhaust soot contamination that the engine oil must contend with. Diesel oil is designed with much higher levels of detergency and dispersency to fight the soot contamination. Like ZDDP anti-wear chemistry, detergents are a surface active chemistry and compete directly for space on metal surfaces, such as the cam lobe and lifter face. So, in practice, the effective level of Zinc anti-wear is a bit lower than what we expect it to be based solely on chemical analysis. Additionally, the ZDDP that is generally used in diesel formulas is primary ZDDP (which activates at higher engine temperatures) since a diesel engine runs predominantly at operating temperature. In a gasoline engine, we must have both primary and secondary ZDDP (which activates at lower temperatures) since the engine will experience a significant number of cold starts. Also, the viscosity modifier polymers that are used in multi-viscosity engine oil to prevent viscosity loss at operating temperature (to protect the bearings) are different for diesel oil and gasoline oil. Diesels operate at essentially the same rpm all day long and need polymers that are shear stable to protect the bearings. Gasoline engines experience many large ranges of rpm during operation and require polymers that have both shear stability and thickening efficiency capability to protect the bearings.
Well, it does cross my mind that the cat is there. I add just enough to improve shifting to pre epa spazz attack levels. I believe the zddp level/concentration is back very near last year's levels of HDEO. For now there are no smog tests for these units in my area so I will be shifting smoothly while waiting to see what develops in the next ten years or so...
Originally Posted By: ddtmoto
I was using Rotella T5 5/40 and loved it in all my bikes, but when the zinc and others were reduced in vertualy all our oils, like in the T6 shell, the shifting suffered.
Finally somebody else picked up on a complaint I've had with the Rotella products. I started using Shetll Rotella Synth 5W-40 about 2 years ago and thought it was great. Then all of a sudden the shifting was suffering, no matter how new the oil was. I didn't know what the heck had happened, and for some reason it still gets rave reviews on a lot of motorcycle boards. But its a noticeably worse product now, if you ask me. I've been looking for something that works the way it used t0.... used to have nice buttery shifts.
Vic
I was using Rotella T5 5/40 and loved it in all my bikes, but when the zinc and others were reduced in vertualy all our oils, like in the T6 shell, the shifting suffered.
Finally somebody else picked up on a complaint I've had with the Rotella products. I started using Shetll Rotella Synth 5W-40 about 2 years ago and thought it was great. Then all of a sudden the shifting was suffering, no matter how new the oil was. I didn't know what the heck had happened, and for some reason it still gets rave reviews on a lot of motorcycle boards. But its a noticeably worse product now, if you ask me. I've been looking for something that works the way it used t0.... used to have nice buttery shifts.
Vic
Originally Posted By: VicL
Originally Posted By: ddtmoto
I was using Rotella T5 5/40 and loved it in all my bikes, but when the zinc and others were reduced in vertualy all our oils, like in the T6 shell, the shifting suffered.
Finally somebody else picked up on a complaint I've had with the Rotella products. I started using Shetll Rotella Synth 5W-40 about 2 years ago and thought it was great. Then all of a sudden the shifting was suffering, no matter how new the oil was. I didn't know what the heck had happened, and for some reason it still gets rave reviews on a lot of motorcycle boards. But its a noticeably worse product now, if you ask me. I've been looking for something that works the way it used t0.... used to have nice buttery shifts.
Vic
Why not try Rotella T 15W40?
I use SRT 15W40 in a KLR650, a Valkyrie and a couple of ATVs, one with a manual transmission. Works fine for my applications. After 3000 miles or so, the KLR's shifting will become a bit less smooth, but by no means balky. The Valkyrie doesn't seem to care regardless of miles on the oil.
Originally Posted By: ddtmoto
I was using Rotella T5 5/40 and loved it in all my bikes, but when the zinc and others were reduced in vertualy all our oils, like in the T6 shell, the shifting suffered.
Finally somebody else picked up on a complaint I've had with the Rotella products. I started using Shetll Rotella Synth 5W-40 about 2 years ago and thought it was great. Then all of a sudden the shifting was suffering, no matter how new the oil was. I didn't know what the heck had happened, and for some reason it still gets rave reviews on a lot of motorcycle boards. But its a noticeably worse product now, if you ask me. I've been looking for something that works the way it used t0.... used to have nice buttery shifts.
Vic
Why not try Rotella T 15W40?
I use SRT 15W40 in a KLR650, a Valkyrie and a couple of ATVs, one with a manual transmission. Works fine for my applications. After 3000 miles or so, the KLR's shifting will become a bit less smooth, but by no means balky. The Valkyrie doesn't seem to care regardless of miles on the oil.
I did tried the Rotella 15/40 in one of the sport bikes and my dirt bike and it was not at all good. Very bad clutch drag and shifting as if the gearbox was filled with 90wt. Neither issue was acceptable on their own. The dino HM 10-40 with 2oz of zddplus seems to be the combo that works for me.
Some bikes really like the Rotella. i.e. they shift nice, etc.
Others really like the Mobil Delvac. I have a Honda VTX1800 with a clunky gearbox and I always used Rotella but there was a fire sale on Mobil Delvac (buy one, get one) and so I used the Delvac. Sweeeet !
In the mean time, I started using the Delvac in the primary chaincases on my Harleys with the same (excellent) results.
Is the Delvac JASO MA rated? Probably not. Has it made any of my bikes slip the clutch? Not yet.
In reading the various and numerous oil analysis(s) here on this forum, it appears to me that the Rotella is a bit more shear resistant and maybe a little higher TBN than the Delvac and maybe lasts a bit longer. Still, I believe that if you are into regular oil changes, there will not be enough of a difference - if any.
Your mileage may vary.
Others really like the Mobil Delvac. I have a Honda VTX1800 with a clunky gearbox and I always used Rotella but there was a fire sale on Mobil Delvac (buy one, get one) and so I used the Delvac. Sweeeet !
In the mean time, I started using the Delvac in the primary chaincases on my Harleys with the same (excellent) results.
Is the Delvac JASO MA rated? Probably not. Has it made any of my bikes slip the clutch? Not yet.
In reading the various and numerous oil analysis(s) here on this forum, it appears to me that the Rotella is a bit more shear resistant and maybe a little higher TBN than the Delvac and maybe lasts a bit longer. Still, I believe that if you are into regular oil changes, there will not be enough of a difference - if any.
Your mileage may vary.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: kballowe
Some bikes really like the Rotella. i.e. they shift nice, etc.
I just installed Rotella 15W-40 last week on my 09 R6, for me this stuff is better than the premium moto oil that I had on there before. I will never go back to paying $40-$50+ per oil change.
Some bikes really like the Rotella. i.e. they shift nice, etc.
I just installed Rotella 15W-40 last week on my 09 R6, for me this stuff is better than the premium moto oil that I had on there before. I will never go back to paying $40-$50+ per oil change.
- Status
