I have a 2010 hyundai santa fe which is a nice car problem is the first start of the day the engine knocks loud (sounds like bad bearings) and that lasts about 30 seconds up to a minute i went back to hyundai and started up a few more v6 2010 santa fe's and those too knocked loudly.. The service manager and tech heard it and admitted it (because he knows i have an engine shop) but says they all do it....As of about 15 minhutes ago i had the third person come here asking about their 2010 v6 hyundai santa fe with the same knocking noise i told them join the club...It sounds like there is either no check valve or another design flaw...What would everyone do to make hyunday fix this?
Many 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe v6 Engines Knock Cold
- Thread starter crazyoildude
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe with the 3.5 engine and no issues.
Are you having it serviced @ the dealer with OEM filters?
We use 5W20 synthetic oil and had a 2007 with the 3.3 engine before this again with no issues at all.
Are you having it serviced @ the dealer with OEM filters?
We use 5W20 synthetic oil and had a 2007 with the 3.3 engine before this again with no issues at all.
Many years ago I had a Ford that did this. AT about 40,000 miles, it had bad bearings and the engine was toast. I would be concerned about this. Is it bearing noise? Piston slap? Does the oil filter put on at the factory have a decent ADBV? If not, you might try replacing the oil filter with a Pure One or a Wix, etc, to see if that makes a difference. Also, what about running something like a 0W-30 syn to get oiling to occur faster?
Don't those have cartridge filters on the top of the engine? You might wonder if that design would have problems with lack of oil on cold starts because all the oil drains back down to the sump after awhile. Is there some sort of ADBV that might not be functioning properly?
If you think you might pursue this problem in the future, I would suggest getting paperwork from your dealer verifying that you had it there for diagnosis.
Don't believe me if you want, but if push comes to shove in the future (ie, Lemon Law buy back, warranty)having paperwork can mean the difference between getting the problem resolved or the company denying repair.
Don't believe me if you want, but if push comes to shove in the future (ie, Lemon Law buy back, warranty)having paperwork can mean the difference between getting the problem resolved or the company denying repair.
Engines should be very quiet after warmup (pistons, rod bearings, main bearings) - if not they are defective and require satisfaction under warranty. Good luck. My Subaru dealer is deaf to the deathknell our forester makes WARM.
The OP said it happens on the first start of the day and lasts 30 seconds to a minute, so I suspect there is a problem with all the oil draining down from the top-of-the-engine mounted filter. I think that's where it is on that engine. Maybe it is a design defect or maybe it is a problem with some sort of ADBV.
Probably piston slap. Is it worse in winter?
Most likely it will run forever like that. Hopefully.
Most likely it will run forever like that. Hopefully.
Don't worry about it. As long as it is considered a normal characteristics, there is no reason to be concerned.
Originally Posted By: AuthorEditor
The OP said it happens on the first start of the day and lasts 30 seconds to a minute, so I suspect there is a problem with all the oil draining down from the top-of-the-engine mounted filter. I think that's where it is on that engine. Maybe it is a design defect or maybe it is a problem with some sort of ADBV.
And my point is that if that WERE the case the oil pressure idiot light would be on for that same 30 seconds to a minute.
If the light goes out in 5 seconds and the noise lasts longer... its not oil related at all unless there's a slow-filling valve lash adjuster (which is harmless).
If the oil pressure idiot light does stay on 30 seconds to a minute, that's a very real problem.
The OP said it happens on the first start of the day and lasts 30 seconds to a minute, so I suspect there is a problem with all the oil draining down from the top-of-the-engine mounted filter. I think that's where it is on that engine. Maybe it is a design defect or maybe it is a problem with some sort of ADBV.
And my point is that if that WERE the case the oil pressure idiot light would be on for that same 30 seconds to a minute.
If the light goes out in 5 seconds and the noise lasts longer... its not oil related at all unless there's a slow-filling valve lash adjuster (which is harmless).
If the oil pressure idiot light does stay on 30 seconds to a minute, that's a very real problem.
he car has 480 miles
it has the filter on top but no anti drain back valve
oil light goes out immediatly after engine is started...strange
Ouch. Sounds bad, but may be nothing.
We have a few older GMC 6.0 motors that have BAD piston slap when cold. Takes about 20-30 seconds to subside after cold start.
BTW, one has over 400k miles with no consumption, no smoke, works daily.
So it may not really be a big problem
We have a few older GMC 6.0 motors that have BAD piston slap when cold. Takes about 20-30 seconds to subside after cold start.
BTW, one has over 400k miles with no consumption, no smoke, works daily.
So it may not really be a big problem
I previously owned a 07 Kia Rio, and an 08 Kia Optima, and both of those vehicles too had the "knock" at cold start, even in our "oh so cold" 75oF mornings here in FL 
My solution, Seafoam in the crankcase and upgrading to the FRAM XG filter(s) for the vehicle(s) and actually using 5W-20 - which is stamped on the oil filler cap....
Quite odd, cause I took the rio to the dealership once for an oil change (it was free...lol) and they told me they used 5W-30....
So afterthat, I always went to Walmart and had them use PYB 5-20 and the XG filter, and no problems with noisy starts
Well, it wasn't "loud" but it was a noticeable noise at that!
The day before I decided to drain the dealership 5-30 out, I put the 6.75 oz of Seafoam in the crankcase (1.5 oz Seafoam per quart of oil) and actually, the morning I took the vehicle to WM TLE for the oil change, the noise was actually GONE....so yea, there's a lot of variables I don't know if the Seafoam fixed it (thinned out the oil a bit so it could flow quicker?) or if it's just a coincidence though...lol. But with the 5-30 PYB, and XG filter I never had a problem at cold start ever....
My solution, Seafoam in the crankcase and upgrading to the FRAM XG filter(s) for the vehicle(s) and actually using 5W-20 - which is stamped on the oil filler cap....
Quite odd, cause I took the rio to the dealership once for an oil change (it was free...lol) and they told me they used 5W-30....
So afterthat, I always went to Walmart and had them use PYB 5-20 and the XG filter, and no problems with noisy starts
Well, it wasn't "loud" but it was a noticeable noise at that!
The day before I decided to drain the dealership 5-30 out, I put the 6.75 oz of Seafoam in the crankcase (1.5 oz Seafoam per quart of oil) and actually, the morning I took the vehicle to WM TLE for the oil change, the noise was actually GONE....so yea, there's a lot of variables
I don't know if the Seafoam fixed it (thinned out the oil a bit so it could flow quicker?) or if it's just a coincidence though...lol. But with the 5-30 PYB, and XG filter I never had a problem at cold start ever....this has a cartridge filter and is brand new
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Don't worry about it. As long as it is considered a normal characteristics, there is no reason to be concerned.
Engines should NEVER knock after warm. NEVER. If it does, its junk. I am not talking about tappet noise. My wifes subaru has no lash takup and makes some ticking cold, and, of course. this is normal. Excessive Piston slap, noisey rods = junk engine. Those GM V8 with bad piston design scored the cyl walls and ate oil BTW. I see too many manufacturers these days going too far with short skirt short crown feather weight pistons. TO THE op Hopefully its a oiling issue that can be addressed through the filter/DRAINBACK.
Don't worry about it. As long as it is considered a normal characteristics, there is no reason to be concerned.
Engines should NEVER knock after warm. NEVER. If it does, its junk. I am not talking about tappet noise. My wifes subaru has no lash takup and makes some ticking cold, and, of course. this is normal. Excessive Piston slap, noisey rods = junk engine. Those GM V8 with bad piston design scored the cyl walls and ate oil BTW. I see too many manufacturers these days going too far with short skirt short crown feather weight pistons. TO THE op Hopefully its a oiling issue that can be addressed through the filter/DRAINBACK.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Excessive Piston slap, noisey rods = junk engine.
I hope you're not confusing a reliability issue with a cosmetic noise issue. A ton of engines out there have rather harmless noises when warm. Some engines are just quieter than others. As you said, there can be some design reasons for the noise, short pistons sometimes being one of them. And while that may be something you personally don't want to listen to, it's also not necessarily going to cause a premature failure.
Excessive Piston slap, noisey rods = junk engine.
I hope you're not confusing a reliability issue with a cosmetic noise issue. A ton of engines out there have rather harmless noises when warm. Some engines are just quieter than others. As you said, there can be some design reasons for the noise, short pistons sometimes being one of them. And while that may be something you personally don't want to listen to, it's also not necessarily going to cause a premature failure.
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