lubro moly moS2 update

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Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Russel - Go look at the amount of moly in you Lubro Moly oil. It is not much. Nowhere near what they recommend with their additive.
It is very fine oil - no doubt. I am not against it.

SteveS - Yes. AC use was almost constant for a few months around here. So MPG was down and tough to compare.
BUT... I know this car very well, and it should not be at a rate of about 38+ now. 32-34 would be about normal.

BTW, butt dyno results exceed what a car wash/wax usually provide!


Nice report mechtech2.
 
Well today I went to the NAPA anf bought a can of the Lubro Moly MOS2 . After 40 miles of driving I can't say if I notice any difference. Maybe smoother or quieter I can't say for sure.
 
Steve S- I respect anyone with an open mind, giving a product a try! It will take some time, and in a perfectly good running engine you might not notice much. I read somewhere that the moly can take up to 500 or more miles to "plate" to engine surfaces. I take these comments with a grain of salt, but I've read it enough times to believe there is some truth to it.

Here are some additional longer term observations. After now 2 seasons of using it in my mower smoke on startup is still gone. My mower would always toss a tiny amount of blue smoke when I started it.

No noticeable difference in my E-150, but I'm only about 1500 miles into the first OCI using it. Perhaps a bit quieter.

My 93 Aerostar, second OCI 4000 miles into it. I was leaking/using about 1 ounce of oil per 100 miles, mostly toward the later part of the OCI. Freshly changed oil was always best. Last week I popped the hood having driven from 3000-4000 miles into this OCI and much to my surprise I only needed 4 ounces of oil. It could be a fluke, more careful observations to follow. The engine runs a little cooler, smoother, and quieter. I have close to 190K Long Island, NY commuter driving on it.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Steve S- I respect anyone with an open mind, giving a product a try! It will take some time, and in a perfectly good running engine you might not notice much. I read somewhere that the moly can take up to 500 or more miles to "plate" to engine surfaces. I take these comments with a grain of salt, but I've read it enough times to believe there is some truth to it.

+1, give it sometimes to coat the cylinders. The same with VSOT, it took several gas tanks to feel the effect of Moly.
 
Lubro Moly also coats the valvetrain - a significant amount of friction points.

My empirical experience is that it takes a while for best results.
1000 miles or so should do it. You may feel a smoothness right away, but let it go a while before final judgement.
 
Seems that is the experience I had with it. I'm interested in seeing if it does anything for my E-150. The 1,500 miles I've logged were lots of stop and go trips to and from jobs close to home.

I'm thinking it lays down a boundary layer in the bearing areas which would be a plus, and could fill in scatches and voids in the cylinder walls of older engines. It would be similar to what Restore does, only with moly instead of the soft metals that Restore contains. Thinking out loud that's all.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Seems that is the experience I had with it. I'm interested in seeing if it does anything for my E-150. The 1,500 miles I've logged were lots of stop and go trips to and from jobs close to home.

I'm thinking it lays down a boundary layer in the bearing areas which would be a plus, and could fill in scatches and voids in the cylinder walls of older engines. It would be similar to what Restore does, only with moly instead of the soft metals that Restore contains. Thinking out loud that's all.


+1
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Seems that is the experience I had with it. I'm interested in seeing if it does anything for my E-150. The 1,500 miles I've logged were lots of stop and go trips to and from jobs close to home.

I'm thinking it lays down a boundary layer in the bearing areas which would be a plus, and could fill in scatches and voids in the cylinder walls of older engines. It would be similar to what Restore does, only with moly instead of the soft metals that Restore contains. Thinking out loud that's all.
The crank and rod bearings kinda "float" on oil so here is no metal to metal contact and the bearings are 'soft" I couldn't see how moly would help in that area. On the rings/cyl walls and valve train maybe there could be a difference but how much?
 
Concerning plain bearings:
It is possible that the Moly would fill in tiny imperfections and scoring and help increase oil pressure. And maybe help with wear.
But this would not be the main area of improvement, that's for sure.
 
I'm thinking the cylinder walls would benefit most if there is some wear. On the flip side of the coin. I'm wondering if the engine is in good shape if the hone marks would aid in the bonding/plating of the moly. Giving it tooth, like sandpaper would do to a slick surface prior to painting it, so the paint would adhear better. Just a thought.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I'm thinking the cylinder walls would benefit most if there is some wear. On the flip side of the coin. I'm wondering if the engine is in good shape if the hone marks would aid in the bonding/plating of the moly. Giving it tooth, like sandpaper would do to a slick surface prior to painting it, so the paint would adhear better. Just a thought.
The cross hatch is critical for holding oil on the cyl walls.
 
Yes that is exactly what the hone marks are for. I was referring to what I thought might happen in a newer engine. Moly by itself is a lube that plates. People are commenting how it reduces oil use in older engines, I'm wondering if it does some filling of scuffs, scratches etc. It can't distinguish a hone mark from a scratch or score mark. Still having an added boundary layer is probably a good thing, especially if an engine was sitting for a long period of time. Again JMO
 
I would think the ECM would read that and lower the rpms. If that's the case you'll be using less gas, a good thing. Seems you've reduced friction and drag, again good things. See if you use less gas.
 
My experience with molybdenum disulfate (MoS2) has been limited to new engine break in with products substituting a quart of GM's old Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) which was rich with zinc and moly for a quart of oil. After a 30 minute break-in run, we used to dump the oil and replace the oil filter. Upon inspecting the filter for break-in debris, most of the moly appeared to be trapped by the oil filter during the break-in period leaving a silver sheen on the filtering media. Never did an oil analysis on the break-in oil, so the amount of moly remaining suspended within the oil is anybody's guess.

Just my observation, YMMV.
 
The engine additive moly plates best with heat and friction . So the grooves of the cross hatch are not as affected.

But what is in the grooves anyway? Oil. Who cares if it is oil with moly?
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
The engine additive moly plates best with heat and friction . So the grooves of the cross hatch are not as affected.

But what is in the grooves anyway? Oil. Who cares if it is oil with moly?


+1

mech, I can tell you that, funky color aside.. Moly is awesome.
thumbsup2.gif


Just watch for rust-colored Oil upon Drain. My mechanic DID think my car had a mechanical problem after Moly-laden (mos2) oil came out, and i was worried too.. until I explained that i had "Added a can of this Moly stuff." He said "Well why do you keep putting additives in it. You are going to mess it up." Anyways, I had to take a look at it, but there are others who report the Oil coming out a rust-color, and possible even slightly goopy. Aside from that.....

.. Moly WILL be going back in my engine. After ARX.
thumbsup2.gif
 
I've now done two OCI's with moly added to my Aerostar, three to my lawn mower, and one to the snow blower. No rust colored oil came out of any of those engines. It was the normal color the oil usually comes out after it is well used. You sure you don't have some issues with the engine that need to be addressed?
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I've now done two OCI's with moly added to my Aerostar, three to my lawn mower, and one to the snow blower. No rust colored oil came out of any of those engines. It was the normal color the oil usually comes out after it is well used. You sure you don't have some issues with the engine that need to be addressed?


I hope not.
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Oddly enough, my idle also raised too. Prime suspect was carbon on valves/pistons and/or starting a new Vacuum leak.

Maybe my rust color was the old cleaner stuffs being removed
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Oh well, im nowhere near my car, im just counting the days.
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