Hello, In brief: Regarding a 2001 Subaru Forester 2.5 SOHC H4 non-turbo w/84,000 miles. The engine has the characteristic tick at low RPMs. I don't know if it's valve train or piston slap. It deminishes greatly with increased RPMs whether cold or warmed up. My thought was to swap 2 of the 4 quarts of 10-30 normally used for 20-50. I know I can remove it if necessary. I'm asking if anyone has had any experience with this common Subaru ticking and if a change in lubricants solved any of it. Thanks, Kira
Ticking Subaru / Oil Option?
- Thread starter Kira
- Start date
- Status
Kira,
You might try just that and see what happens. In addition if you take your Subaru in to the dealership for services you might see what they use in your engine and then try another brand based on what they use.
You didn't say if the ticking noise goes away after it's warmed up in the mornings. If it happens all day during your drive you might reconsider trying another brand of oil and have the dealership advise you. It might need some sort of valve adjustment or something like that.
Durango
You might try just that and see what happens. In addition if you take your Subaru in to the dealership for services you might see what they use in your engine and then try another brand based on what they use.
You didn't say if the ticking noise goes away after it's warmed up in the mornings. If it happens all day during your drive you might reconsider trying another brand of oil and have the dealership advise you. It might need some sort of valve adjustment or something like that.
Durango
Have your tried a different oil filter? This would be my first choice.
failing that here is my advice...
Adding 20w50 to your oil isn't going to cure the problem as that would only increase the pressure and decrease the flow (most likely)
Do you know the oil change history? If it's good then you might just have some buildup in a lifter or lifters and some MMO added to your dino oil or a run of Redline oil should help fix that up for you because it will help clean this up.
If it is questionable then you might need to flush the engine internals and then use a higher quality synthetic for a few runs to help clean up sticking lifters or clogged oil passages.
Steve
failing that here is my advice...
Adding 20w50 to your oil isn't going to cure the problem as that would only increase the pressure and decrease the flow (most likely)
Do you know the oil change history? If it's good then you might just have some buildup in a lifter or lifters and some MMO added to your dino oil or a run of Redline oil should help fix that up for you because it will help clean this up.
If it is questionable then you might need to flush the engine internals and then use a higher quality synthetic for a few runs to help clean up sticking lifters or clogged oil passages.
Steve
Last edited:
You might even consider dropping down one grade to a 5W-30. I had a 2001 Forester and only ran 5W-30 in it and never had any strange noises from the engine.
Hello, Thanks guys. The vehicle was purchased "used from a neighbor"; great price, questionable maintenance history.
Initially I thought to just run her with good clean oil. I didn't think about a better oil filter. For the low cost of a filter upgrade, I'll try it. Would a WIX filter be a potentially better choice? I've read all the posts/opinions about MMO. How much would you add to a 4 quart system? I'd guess 8 oz. Is Redline an oil with notable cleaning properties? Are there others?
As far as a dealer visit goes: It wouldn't hurt as their ear is tuned to their engines and they could most likely ID the sound and suggest a course of action.
A fellow on the UNYSOC(Upstate New York Subaru Owner's Club)site suggested living with it. FYI: The UNYSOC site is mostly for modified Subbies, not this Grandma car.
We will change the T-belt and rollers real soon as the car is 9 "Upstate" years old. TRANSLATION: Cold Winters and LOTSA salt.
Anybody else? Please chime in. Kira
Initially I thought to just run her with good clean oil. I didn't think about a better oil filter. For the low cost of a filter upgrade, I'll try it. Would a WIX filter be a potentially better choice? I've read all the posts/opinions about MMO. How much would you add to a 4 quart system? I'd guess 8 oz. Is Redline an oil with notable cleaning properties? Are there others?
As far as a dealer visit goes: It wouldn't hurt as their ear is tuned to their engines and they could most likely ID the sound and suggest a course of action.
A fellow on the UNYSOC(Upstate New York Subaru Owner's Club)site suggested living with it. FYI: The UNYSOC site is mostly for modified Subbies, not this Grandma car.
We will change the T-belt and rollers real soon as the car is 9 "Upstate" years old. TRANSLATION: Cold Winters and LOTSA salt.
Anybody else? Please chime in. Kira
Last edited:
I don't think the heavier oil will solve the problem. It may mask the noise though. I have a 2006 and have been using 5-30 but am dropping to 5-20 just for the winter.
+1 to the recommendation to change oil filter brand. It made a difference in my subi.
Also btw, I used autorx in that subi and it seemed to help power a bit and I could see carbon particles on the dipstick but it made the ticking noise louder than before and never went away.
I would change oil filter brand first then experiment with oil types/weights. Personally I have seen ester oils quiet several of my engines vs. PAO but hard to say if that is due to ester content, overall formulation (additives, etc.), or viscosity.
Also btw, I used autorx in that subi and it seemed to help power a bit and I could see carbon particles on the dipstick but it made the ticking noise louder than before and never went away.
I would change oil filter brand first then experiment with oil types/weights. Personally I have seen ester oils quiet several of my engines vs. PAO but hard to say if that is due to ester content, overall formulation (additives, etc.), or viscosity.
If it was me, I'd drain enough oil such that it was a quart low. Then I'd add 1qt of Marvel Mystery Oil (a couple of bucks at Walmart). Drive it like that until your next oil change (a couple of thousand miles would be ideal). On your next change, replace the oil with Rotella T6 synthetic 5W-40 or Mobil1 0W-40 and install a decent filter like a Napa Gold(OEM Wix). That should clean out much of the [censored] inside (if there is any) and then start you out with a known good oil for the Subie. If it still ticks after that, I'd probably just live with it.
I'm thinking 20W-50 oil would be too thick for that climate on a Subie engine especially as it gets colder outside.
As for the ticking, I believe Subaru H4 engines actually need to have the valve lash checked/adjusted once in a while. It could just be due since the Forester has 84k on it. As long as you keep a good maintenance regimen, that Subie should last you a LONG time.
Also one other note as mentioned by webfors. Please make sure the timing belt gets changed on schedule.
Ed B.
As for the ticking, I believe Subaru H4 engines actually need to have the valve lash checked/adjusted once in a while. It could just be due since the Forester has 84k on it. As long as you keep a good maintenance regimen, that Subie should last you a LONG time.
Also one other note as mentioned by webfors. Please make sure the timing belt gets changed on schedule.
Ed B.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Almost every older Subie I've know has valvetrain noise; it's normal. Piston slap is also pretty common. With that being said, my '97 EJ25 liked Subaru OEM filters and XW-30 best.
Oh, I use Balwin filters but I think the Subaru filters are pretty good. I also like the PureOne and Bosch filters. The ticking noise, as someone said, may be quite normal so don't do anything krrazy and really eff up the car.
Last edited:
Kira,
Try a Subaru OEM oil filter from the dealer before trying a Wix. Wix makes great filters but because we are trying to troubleshoot it I would use an OEM filter first because they would know their engines best in terms of oil flow.
Failing that, change the oil with good quality dino and substitute 1 quart for 1 quart of MMO or change oil with all new Redline oil.
I would stick with a 30wt during this cleanup in this engine.
If the oil on the dipstick turns dark quickly within the first 2K miles then you know cleaning is going on and you might have excessive buildup.
I would tell you to take off a valve cover and have a look but that is a real PITA on these engines.
Steve
Try a Subaru OEM oil filter from the dealer before trying a Wix. Wix makes great filters but because we are trying to troubleshoot it I would use an OEM filter first because they would know their engines best in terms of oil flow.
Failing that, change the oil with good quality dino and substitute 1 quart for 1 quart of MMO or change oil with all new Redline oil.
I would stick with a 30wt during this cleanup in this engine.
If the oil on the dipstick turns dark quickly within the first 2K miles then you know cleaning is going on and you might have excessive buildup.
I would tell you to take off a valve cover and have a look but that is a real PITA on these engines.
Steve
Ive owned six or seven subarus (lost count!) Subaru filters are Fram with an improved mounting gasket and 21-23psig bypass rating (reads: doesnt leak). If you have piston slap, 2 qts 10w-40 MC5K with 2 qts MC5K 5w-30 (NOT 10w-30!) seems to quiet the machine without killing the engine response or fuel mileage. Otherwise a valvtrain tick is NOT solved with thicker oil. Our 09 has adjustable valve lash - does yours? If so, Get it adjusted, get new VC gaskets and sparker tube gaskets - might as well put in a fresh set of k20pru-11 Denso copper core sparkers. Only Denso on this machine work 110%. An alternatiove oil scenario is a gallon jug of Rotella T 10w-30 with the makeup fractionl cup Formula Shell 5w-30 (NOT 10w-30!)
Last edited:
Other than 2 or 3 responses - I see bad advice all over this thread. If you dont know anything about subarus - I would not post any friendly, albeit ignorant advice. The EJ 253 typ have MECHANICAL valvelash adjustment with NO tappets, pushrods, lifters etc. Just a rocker arm with a shoe that glides on the cam and a jam nut on the other end. Excessive Valve tick means lash adjustment time. The DOHC EJ 255 and some earlier engine used differeing valtrain designs. Some are hydraulic lash takeup, some not; some sevice adjustable, some not.
Agree. Need to check valve lash. I have never known a subie motor that was hard to get to. not familiar with 01 forester but usually you pull an overflow tank and voila you have plenty of room for 1 1/4" socket in the 3 I have known.
Some of the earlier 2.5's required shims IIRC. The 2.2's and 1.8's I have known were very easily adjusted with feeler gauge and hand tools.
More valve slop is better than too little valve slop.
M
Some of the earlier 2.5's required shims IIRC. The 2.2's and 1.8's I have known were very easily adjusted with feeler gauge and hand tools.
More valve slop is better than too little valve slop.
M
The 2.5 L non turbo is a SOHC engine with the common screw & lock nut arrangement to set the valve lash. Very unusual to need a valve adjustment on these engines before 150,000 miles. However; as some have suggested you may want to run the recommended 5w30 oil with good cleaning properties first. The filter will have little or nothing to do with the ticking issue IMO. I suggest that if you are not familiar with engines in general that you have a real mechanic have a listen before doing any aggressive fix that may not even be the problem.
Kira - You state that there is noise cold or hot. That indicates that it is not an oil or oil filter problem.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Other than 2 or 3 responses - I see bad advice all over this thread. If you dont know anything about subarus - I would not post any friendly, albeit ignorant advice. The EJ 253 typ have MECHANICAL valvelash adjustment with NO tappets, pushrods, lifters etc. Just a rocker arm with a shoe that glides on the cam and a jam nut on the other end. Excessive Valve tick means lash adjustment time. The DOHC EJ 255 and some earlier engine used differeing valtrain designs. Some are hydraulic lash takeup, some not; some sevice adjustable, some not.
Other than 2 or 3 responses - I see bad advice all over this thread. If you dont know anything about subarus - I would not post any friendly, albeit ignorant advice. The EJ 253 typ have MECHANICAL valvelash adjustment with NO tappets, pushrods, lifters etc. Just a rocker arm with a shoe that glides on the cam and a jam nut on the other end. Excessive Valve tick means lash adjustment time. The DOHC EJ 255 and some earlier engine used differeing valtrain designs. Some are hydraulic lash takeup, some not; some sevice adjustable, some not.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked