Removing flecks of house paint from car?

[Spyder7]

The outside of my place was recently painted, and the painters managed to fleck the side, top, trunk, and windows of the car with white paint (stands out on a dark green car). I have no idea how to get this stuff off without damaging the car paint underneath. The landlord, who contracted these guys, is supposed to come by to look at the car today. Although when I mentioned it, he sounded as clueless as I am on how to remove it.

Anyone have any ideas?

-Spyder

 

[demarpaint]

Wash the car and try a clay bar.

30 years of being a painting contractor I never got overspray on anything. If I were you I'd get on the painters case, and have him pay for a complete detail of the car. There are compaines that specialize in overspray removal. He should have insurance, and if he doesn't he'll learn all about the benefits of having insurance.

 

[Spyder7]

That was when I noticed it: after washing the car. Before that there was enough dirt on it to mask the paint flecks (it hadn't been washed and waxed in about a month).

It was completely avoidable too. I had told them to let me know when they were going to do the side of the house that I park on and I would move it a couple houses up to a neighbour who lets us use his driveway when we need to. Instead they painted (the flecks are from brush painting trim a few feet away from where the car was parked) without letting me know or covering the car.

My landlord has always been really good though. If I come up with a way of removing it he'll pay for whatever it is (and, I assume, deduct it from what he's paying them).

-Spyder

 

[demarpaint]

Totally avoidable, that's if the painter cared. Anyway back to your problem. A buddy of mine went through the exact same problem you have. Painters did the exterior of his wife's building and didn't care about cars near where they were painting and got "flecks" all over her black Surburban. He was able to get the black Surburban looking good with a clay bar.

You'd be amazed how many cars on the road have paint overspray on them. I read some statistics and the % is very high. Most people don't even know it.

The good news is if there was a fairly good coat of wax, and some dirt on the car the clean up should be pretty easy.

 

[Spyder7]

Any particular brand of car wash you recommend? I usually just use Armorall 2-in-1 Wash & Wax. Not the best stuff out there, I know, but I usually use it every week or 2 and when I do it maintains a decent looking shine. For the winter, when doing this isn't an option, I plan to put down a heavier duty wax (something like Mother's).

-Spyder

 

[XS650]

One of the original purposes of claybars was to remove over spray in body shops.

Don't let anyone tear into it with a buffer to take the over spray off. That will also take some of your clearcoat or paint off. A well lubed claybar will take off the overspray and not touch your paint.

 

[Spyder7]

Okay I'm off to find some decent car wash (Mothers or Eagle one maybe) and a clay bar. Hopefully this works and then I can just give him the bill for the stuff. He'll likely consider himself to have gotten off cheaply, as I imagine he's been having visions of having to foot the bill for a new paint job ever since I mentioned it.

-Spyder

 

[demarpaint]

Any good car soap will do for washing the car. There is a kit available that contains everything you'll need, including the lube for the clay, if you are in a bind soapy water will do for a lube. The kit comes in a red box, Mothers makes it IIRC.

Keep one thing in mind with clay bars, if you drop the clay on the floor toss it! Break small pieces off the bar and use them, don't attempt to use the whole bar. It really isn't hard to do.

Lots of good info here on Claying a car. Good luck, report back!

 

[mrsilv04]

I just got done using a clay bar on my truck, and am thoroughly impressed with the results.

The clay bar kits are less than $20, and will include everything that you need (except the elbow grease...)

I used the Meguiar's kit, and paid $17 at W-M. Mother's has one as well. I've read some less than positive comments about the Turtle Wax "Ice" clay bar kit.

Just keep plenty of spray detailer (included in the kit) on the paint, and you'll do fine.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: XS650
One of the original purposes of claybars was to remove over spray in body shops.

Don't let anyone tear into it with a buffer to take the over spray off. That will also take some of your clearcoat or paint off. A well lubed claybar will take off the overspray and not touch your paint.


Believe this. My truck was "detailed" by some clown and an buffer and no matter what I try to do with wax and such, in certain lighting conditions I can tell the damage to the clear coat is quickly.

Once the clear coat is damaged, it is NOT coming back.

 

[XS650]

Originally Posted By: Spyder7
Okay I'm off to find some decent car wash (Mothers or Eagle one maybe) and a clay bar. Hopefully this works and then I can just give him the bill for the stuff. He'll likely consider himself to have gotten off cheaply, as I imagine he's been having visions of having to foot the bill for a new paint job ever since I mentioned it.

-Spyder


Claybars are like magic, just be sure to keep paint surface the well lubed. If you suddenly get a lot of drag on the bar, it means you have gone through the lube and it is dragging on your paint and will start marking the paint.

 

[Billbert]

I used a product called 'oops' to remove paint a road crew got on my black car. Took it right off with no damage to the clear coat, I rewashed and waxed afterward.

 

[Spyder7]

I went over to NAPA and found a Mother's kit that included two clay bars and the lube. The contractor came by just before the landlord came over, and the contractor offered to remove it himself. The landlord also offered to have it done at a detailer. I told them that I was fine with doing it myself, and the contractor knows some of the shops that buy from the regularly, so he offered to pick it up (he can save a bit that way by getting a better price then I can).

I said that was cool, that I had some other car projects on the go this week as well, and that anytime this week he can drop it off is good by me and I'd just as soon do the detailing myself so long as I have the kit to do it with. Everyone was satisfied with that. No fuss, no hassles.

Both the landlord and the contractor are really good to deal with. He was using some cheap labour (high school kids) for the painting, provided by my landlord's business partner, and they both readily admitted that the one who did the trim where my car was parked must have flecked it while using the brush.

This'll be my first time using a clay bar, so I'm all for doing it myself just to gain the experience. I also got a foot in the door to access the garage being renovated for the new tenant upstairs - landlord said no prob on me using its outlets to plug my power tools into (dremel for now, grinder and orbit polisher when I buy them). All and all, very satisfactory outcome.

-Spyder

 

[demarpaint]

Good luck with the project. Use caution if you try a product like OOPs or GOOF off, they can soften up the clear coat if left on too long. Stick with the Clay you'll be fine!

 

[Spyder7]

Yeah I'm just going to go with the Mother's clay kit as it has everything in it I need to get the job done. And with 2 bars in the kit, I can keep the second for next summer. I'm a total novice to detailing and body work, but this car (costing only 2k) is my perfect guinea pig to learn on, as it came with 10 years worth of minor nicks, shallow dents, scratches, and some minor surface rust to tackle. Most of it is almost unnoticeable - except to me.

Good to learn on, though, when you can start on the small imperfections with little cost in tools and materials, and learn from them to tackle bigger projects on another car later. With the materials cost covered, its just an opportunity to try something new for me (the contractor was pleasantly surprised about how nonchalant I was about it all, saying a lot of other guys would have blown their top - but in my experience, you get farther, if you're going to get anywhere, by being calm and reasonable).

-Spyder

 

[demarpaint]

I agree, but I can say this. If it were my 93 Aerostar I would have done the same thing as you. If it were my 08 Jeep or 88 E-150 the contractor would be forking out a lot of cash. I would maintain calm, but it would be a very different calm depending on which vehicle it was. LOL

 

[Spyder7]

Yeah I could see that. If it were new and/or in near mint condition, I would have been a lot more upset. But I've always had good dealings with my landlord, so I knew he'd go along with any solution proposed. He was probably relieved when I said just provide this inexpensive kit and I'll do the rest - no sweat. I never put a price on my time when I'm working on my car as its my hobby and I'm always learning new things (like about this product). I just see it as a bonus that I'll have a free bar of it left for next summer when I've resumed finishing whatever I couldn't get done this summer (i.e., something else to add to my growing auto stash of tools, solvents, de-greasers, rust paint, engine oil, etc).

-Spyder

 

[demarpaint]

A good relationship with a landlord is a good thing. Smart move on your part!

 

[Spyder7]

I have now the Mother's kit that includes 2 clay bars, a bottle of lube spray, and a Terry Cloth. Now I'm trying to decide how to make the best use of this freebie.

I've had a summer long ongoing project involving fixing up some minor scratches, dents, and other odds and ends that 10 years of driving accumulated on this car. There's also some rust spots, and the ones I can at with a brush I'm treating with POR-15. Now comes the questions:

Should I hold off on using the clay bar until after I'm finished (at least as much as I can get done before winter)? Invisible areas will only be treated with POR-15 (wheel wells for instance). Other areas, like some rust on the drivers door near the handle, will require touch up spray after sanding & using POR 15. And there's a dent (vertical seam) that can't be pulled and will need to filled before being painted.

I'm just wondering where in the process is it best to use the clay bar.

Another question: is the correct procedure to wash, clay bar, then wax?

Sorry if this sounds like real noob and if its been asked before. I'm just completely new to this and want to make the best use of it that I can. That and this place has never steered me wrong (one of the best knowledge bases on the net imho).

-Spyder

 

[mva]

I have used "Polycleanse" to remove specs of house paint from several cars with no ill effects. It took the specs right off and did not damage the paint job. It is a product made to clean dry paint from paint brushes.